… does anyone know – so far I may have deduced:

a) Wind the screw out for less on/off brake application (ie more modulation)

b) User the level reach knob to bring the levers back into correct reach.

Is this right?

Bump?

badly

+ is more pad clearance ( I think)

I’m no expert but here’s what I think.

The screw has a graphic on it… turn it one way for more free stroke and the other way for less. That means you have to move the pads more before they contact the disc. I don’t find that this makes too much difference to the lever feel. It’s not that sensitive but it does stop the pads rubbing if you have a slightly bent rotor.

THe lever reach knob adjusts how much the lever moves. I wind it all the way out almost. It adjusts how close the lever is to the bars. It’s quite sensitive. I find that the closer to the bars the more modulation.

That’s what I think. I threw out the instruction book like all good red blooded males should 🙂

With the M775 levers you could see what was happening by looking underneath. Don’t think it’s so obvious with the M785s, but I haven’t looked in any detail.

Anyhoo…

Screw out meant that the cam in the lever attached to the piston moved horizontally for a few mm before going vertically. This meant that the lever would have to move further to produce the same movement in the piston ie more modulation. It also produced some movement in the levers (out I think). More modulation means more lever travel before full-engagement, so this would make sense.