I've emithered you stuey.
Ta, I'm offshore at the mo (get me), so I'll check when I get back later.
I've emithered you stuey.
Ta, I'm offshore at the mo (get me), so I'll check when I get back later.
Tub rims are usually a lot lighter than clinchers though.
But not the new Lightweight ones I was manhandling last week.....which for 3k a pair I'd hope not.
I run Ultremo clinchers 195g with Maxis Ultralight tubes 65g, thats 260g.
Wheels are Real Design @ 1365 a pair, I'd rather go light than deep!
according to my sources
1kg lighter would save 1 minute on a thirty minute climb (Bradley Wiggins)
and
at a constant output of 250w the average gain from aero wheels is 8kmh (some aero expert in a cycling mag interview)
Make of that what you like
Unless you are doing alpine length climbs or your aero wheels add kilos extra then I'd opt for the aero benefits every time.
Argh, I was set on clinchers! looking on the tube tubs don't appear to be much hassle to fit....
The bike I'm looking at comes with Mavic Ksyrium Equipe's, I'll probably leave these on till we get going in the late spring tbh.
Its just if they don't seal (or you tear them) its £40-75 down the swanny.
Tubs for racing....clinchers for training.
Slight hijack but still on topic.
If you were thinking about doing your first race ever - cat4 on country lanes - would I need to upgrade my R500 bombproof do it all wheels to say something like a PX model B? Or would there be no difference?
Its on a Bianchi Via Nirone AluCarbon if that matters.
I run Ultremo clinchers 195g with Maxis Ultralight tubes 65g, thats 260g.Wheels are Real Design @ 1365 a pair, I'd rather go light than deep!
Right, I'd have both! You could build a set of tub wheels with 50mm rims, for less than £400, that weigh 1200g. The Ultremo tub is exactly the same weight, so that's 165g weight saved and all the aero benefits.
If you were thinking about doing your first race ever - cat4 on country lanes - would I need to upgrade my R500 bombproof do it all wheels to say something like a PX model B? Or would there be no difference?
Chuff all difference - don't get bogged down in the 'need' for top end equipment. It'll give you a bit of a helping hand, but it's far from essential. The road bike analogy I used to offer was: 'Lance Armstrong could race a £500 road bike in the Tour, he'd be marginally slower, but otherwise fine. If Steve Peat raced a £500 MTB in the World Cup he'd be taking his life into his hands.'
It's all marginal gains on the road. I'd not bother going for anything that wasn't a big improvement (and model Bs are never gonna be a big improvement
)
If you were thinking about doing your first race ever - cat4 on country lanes
Your R500 wheels will be fine. In your first race, you'll likely be more worried about keeping position in the pack and trying to work out what's going on. Do some racing. If you then find that your equipment is holding you back then look at getting some new kit or just trying some to see if it *really* makes a difference. New kit often makes things feel better but doesn't make you any faster...
Though new kit's nice, just don't kid yourself about any performance advantages
Thanks gents, good advice. Off to find some training resources now. I'm quite fit on the bike but not sure where to direct training over winter at the moment. My club mainly do Sportive training which isnt for me I dont have time to be doing all day 100 milers.
Will chat to club leader tonight and see what he says about other local racing training.
At what stage will i be able to justify a Colnago C59 as helping my racing
Carb, I rode my commute for my first season, open sports on hope hubs, there still going well on the way in today. I'd stick with your R500's.
I really fell for road racing last year, really enjoyed the racing and camaraderie (apart from that freaking soaking tour of Carmarthenshire) I said before I started if I enjoy it I'll finish the season on the commute and if funds allow look to get something before next season.
Yeah it's marginal gains but I dunno, kind of feel I deserve it a bit more now.
What is your commuter Scratch?
did you just roll up at an event for your first one or did you know someone who could guide you in with training in advance?
I just rolled up and gave it a punt, got dropped at the first one as I didn't know what to do/where to be, been fine ever since. Don't mind it, but don't love it. I've done a lot more closed circuit crits than open road races admittedly, I think a more interesting course would help.
My Commutes an old Lemond Etape frame I picked up for £200.
First race was a close circuit crit, I turned up and bumped into a rider from our club, I'd never met him before, he said something along the lines of 'hold your line in the corners' and 'try to keep up'
I was yo-yo'ing about all over the place half hour later, admittedly I needed more practice riding with a group but kept out of peoples way and started to learn the ropes after a couple of races.
There's a Twitter feed called MTFU_Training which posts regular "toughen the **** up" style funny messages (well, some are funny).
One earlier today read:
Thinking about new race wheels for next season? Try thinking about the circumference of your waistline first. #mtfu #fatbastard
Don't get too caught up in the kit race at 3rd/4th cat level. Pretty much anything will do the job.
Thinking about new race wheels for next season? Try thinking about the circumference of your waistline first
That is actually brilliant advice. As would
Thinking about new race wheels for next season? Try thinking about using the money for a training camp which won't be as flashy on the start line but will make you faster.
You could get a spray tan....much cheaper, looks like you've been putting in the training miles abroad.............................until you get lapped
my 2 pence... i prefere to race on tubs they ride so much nicer.... 50mm are fine in all but the worst wind if the course has some proper sustained climbs then i will ride shallow section....tubs again...
i train on ksyrium sl-ltds because theyre stiff and bombproof ( i live in the peak district) and i will race on a 66mm for crits (stiffer) which is 1400g a 50mm which is 1295g and a 20 mm which is 1038g
i like the way that a shallow rim picks up speed on climbs,depends how heavy you are thought to be honest
Bruce
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