Looking at getting a Pro 2 rear hub.

What are the Pros/Cons of QR v’s 10mm “Bolt Through” v’s 10mm “Bolt In”??

Are they all compatable with normal QR drop outs (Orange Five)?

Cheers,
bigdonx

Yes, they’re all compatible with standard 10mm drop-outs. The bolt-ins ones use two bolts threaded directly into the axle, you’ll need to carry a suitable allen key/spanner to remove the wheel if needed and you’ll have two bolts to undo, one each side. Laterally stiffer than a QR.

Bolt through means you can either use a bolt with a nut on it – need a spanner/allen key etc to remove – or something like the DT Swiss expensive and self-destructing, RWS thing or the Superstar 10mm QR thing, again stiffer than a QR, not sure how it compares to the bolted version in the lab, but similar effect in real life, I suspect.

Standard QR – dead simple, less lateral stiffness.

Swapped from a standard QR to 10mm bolt through on the back of my RC405 and I’d say you can maybe feel a bit more ‘togetherness’ at the rear when ploughing through rocky stuff, but not as noticeable as swapping from a QR to 20mm Maxle at the front. Suspect it’ll vary from bike to bike depending on how laterally stuff the rear triangle is overall. Personally I think the 10mm QR-type thing’s a decent compromise between stiffness and convenience, though maybe you could get a bolt-in tighter.

Blah…

+1 BWD 🙂

Cheers for that guys – anyone know of any major downsides to any of the above, or is it just a compromise between stifness/convenience??

Out of curiosity are the Bolt Through and/or Bolt in options a 2 x spanner/key operation ie one on either side??

As above – I switched to a Superstar 10mm QR with a Pro2 bolt through hub.

No problems here with it – I bought an extra 10QR as a spare as shops don’t tend to stock them.

Lunchtime bump……..

I can’t tell the slightest bit of difference between my 10mm bolt-in and 10mm QR Pro 2, the 10mm bolt-through is in a stronger wheel though so that might be covering up a difference. The SS 10mm seems perfectly good, it doesn’t have the nicest action when it closes but it stays closed.

The bolt-in works out lighter though, if that’s a consideration, it’s 127g complete whereas the bolt-through is 68g without quick release. Tool-free release sounds like a big improvement but then, most times if you take a wheel out away from home it’s because of a puncture and you’ll be needing tools anyway.

The weight would only really be of concern if that was the only thing that differed between them. Main two concerns are how secure each option is (do the bolt-ins come loose etc) and whether there are any reliability issues which would rule out one over the other??

Using tools not so much of an issue, although allen key probably more convenient than spanner(s).

Never had the bolts come loose at all, and the bolts are enormous so though I guess you could possibly strip the thread it doesn’t seem likely. I don’t think either method’s going to give you problems that way tbh.

Another option is to use 135×12 axle, with an Azonic Moment axle. It allows 12mm axle on normal QR dropouts.

Poor mans maxle.

std 12mm axle won’t fit in a 10mm dropout?

Oh yeh 😉

10mm Bolt through is awesome except its heavy unless you use something like a hadley alimunium axle. The bolt up option is best as it saves some weight. I also use Ti bolts rather than the steel ones included to save a few extra grams.

Cheers for all the feedback, I’m kind of swaying in the direction of the “Bolt-In” variant – but just wanted to be reassured that it wasn’t a gimmicky, lighter, but crapper attempt at a solution.

Can’t really see any major benifit of the Azonic axle (in the context of a Pro 2 hub), the SS 10mm QR does have a small convenience appeal although I don’t see using an allen key as that much of an inconvenience.

I have the SS ones on my Five and they have been spot on if a little heavier than the DTSwiss ones 🙂

Any of you evening folk got anything to add??

10mm bolt in made quite a difference to my Heckler, the Hope one is two bolts with Allen key heads, no spanners req’d and I hade a 10mm bolt through on my Nomad and used a DT swiss Qr more convenient but more likely to get damaged, couldn’t really notice on that bike the difference between a standard QR and the 10mm, I have a Maxle on my Orange Strange 5 and I would say the rear is very stiff no flex , feels stiffer than the Nomad. I’m running Hope Hoops on it at the moment with DT 4.2 rims and I can hear the rims and spokes making all sorts of noise, I will be putting my Hope Hoop with Stans Flows back on very soon, so I think the wheel build also makes a difference, you just move one weakness to another area 😀