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1. tumnurkoz - Member

   I had my 2002 king kikapu stolen (19inch) and replaced it with a whyte e5 (17 inch but same reach to bars) the Kona felt planted and sharp around singletrack etc. The wht does not feel planted at all, it just seems to want to 'push' i have a 10mm longer stem than std, and an inline post to put a little more weight over the front. It seems more 'wandery' and does not inspire a great deal of confidence in the front end if grip is a bit low.

   On the Monkey trail monday morning and used the fork damping lever to increase the damping. It felt much better. Is this a placebo or will increased damping keep the wheel more planted and less likely to 'move out of the way'? any ideas?

   Posted 1 year ago #
2. glenp - Member

   I think it is just as likely that you have started to get used to the feel of it as the damping adjustment has made all the difference. Maybe a bit of both - more rebound damping will leave the fork into it's stroke for (very) slightly longer I guess.

   I also think other variables (than total reach and weight on the 'bars) will make just as much if not more difference between the two bikes - for example the newer bike is probably slacker than the 2002 one, and are you using the same tyres? Just a switch of tyres could give you a different steering feel - if you've been riding the same bike for eight years then any change at all will feel weird to start with.

   Posted 1 year ago #
3. thomthumb - Member

   is it an air fork? try a few psi more; the fork on my hardtail loses air and gives this kind of feeling.

   Posted 1 year ago #
4. glenp - Member

   Don't want to be contradictory, but a bit more sag (ie less pressure) could let it settle into its travel a bit more and give you a steeper head angle…

   Still think the answer lies in riding it a bit more and trusting the design. It will almost certainly be different, but your perception of that difference as "wrong" will change over time.

   Posted 1 year ago #
5. U31 - Member

   Sounds like you need to weight up the front more to get the tyres to bite.
   As someone above said, different geometry and feeling.. Not better or worse, just different

   Posted 1 year ago #
6. tumnurkoz - Member

   Yes, it's a revelation dual air. i've got the sag set at about 25%. The King was not a supple ride by any means and could never be considered plush. The Whyte however, is really smooth. Tyres are Kenda Nev and Blue groove. I worried about size/geometry but they are very close in that respect anyway. As the only comparison example i have here is my 18 inch hardtail (which i love the sizing of!)
   
   post changed to inline since the pic.

   Posted 1 year ago #
7. tumnurkoz - Member

   think i'll try to faff with the fork pressure/damping (and try to not just sit and steer!) thanks for the help

   Posted 1 year ago #
8. MrNutt - Member

   that pic hurt my head! elbows up and out should help sort it

   Posted 1 year ago #
9. Van Halen - Member

   higher front end on the FS means less weight over the front end.

   i run an inverted stem unless i go anywhere steep. i`m still crap but i like to think it helps.

   Posted 1 year ago #
10. ourmaninthenorth - Member

    Deffo lower the front end to be the same as the King.

    Sad about the Kona - they have made som ace handling bikes in their time.

    Posted 1 year ago #
11. TandemJeremy - Member

    I think insufficient rebound can cause you to run wide - fork compresses as you brake then as you let off the brakes it bounces up slackening the head angle and bouncing weight off the fork - increased rebound slows this.

    I am prepared to be told this is bollox tho

    Posted 1 year ago #
12. Sancho - Member

    you'd avoid that problem TJ by braking before the corner.

    Posted 1 year ago #
13. glenp - Member

    I think it is better not to have to lean on the front end of the bike to correct its balance. Your primary, neutral, weighting of the bike is via the feet/bottom bracket - giving some weight to the front, a little more to the back (driving both tyres via the lowest point on the chassis available). So I suggest a set-up that works in a natural/neutral fashion without extra pre-loading of the 'bars.

    That would lead back to experiment with less fork pressure (for more sag and a lower average ride height) and increasing rebound damping on the fork for the same reason. For that matter, you could experiment with reducing sag at the back by adding pressure, but keep within limits because the action of the rear suspension will be sensitive to pressure relative to rider weight.

    Posted 1 year ago #
14. Earl - Member

    Try a couple raising the handle bars - cost nothing. I find a few spacers make a lot of difference.

    Posted 1 year ago #
15. stuey - Member

    Call a priest - I'm no expert but looking at you photo your bike is blatantly possessed by a ghost bike.

    Exorcism is the only way to be sure.

    Posted 1 year ago #

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