Changing my rear derailleur cable to Gore Rideon (sealed) and the frame stop ferrules it comes terminate the outer housing. Am I supposed to cut a seperate length of housing to go between each frame stop or shall I just find some non-Gore stoppers that will let me use one long piece?
Bike Forum
[closed]
Gore Rideon cables - stupid question ahoy!
-
Posted 3 years ago #
-
Gore cables, hmm, they have a plastic sleve that is stuck over the cable, this rubs against the outer so it doesnt rust and reduces the friction, they still have breaks so muck gets in though.
Just run a solid length of shimano outer, much cheaper and easier
Posted 3 years ago # -
That was my thinking, pointless having all this sealed gubbins then creating breaks everywhere or running a piece of exposed cable (even with the sleeve)
Posted 3 years ago # -
Yes, use a piece of housing between each pair of stops. Then the inner cable and the sheath run the full length. This way, you get a fully sealed system but without the disadvantage of long runs of housing compressing.
Posted 3 years ago # -
Think I'll go for multiple pieces of housing and try keep the joins sealed inside the frame stops
Posted 3 years ago # -
? when i fitted mine i had no issues. Check the ferrules they are different sizes some are termination and some to go in the cable stops so the liner can run through.
Posted 3 years ago # -
Gore Rideon cables are set up like standard cables (non-full length outers) apart from the fact you have an additional middle "sheath" as Onzadog said. The sheath operates like a full-length outer would in that is provides an an interupted barrier from the shifter all the way to the mech. The inner cable runs inside the sheath. The outer then just provides the rigidity/protection necessary between shifter and the first cable stop, between the second cable and third cable stops by your seat post and then between the fourth cable stop and your rear mech.
It definitely does NOT cause any friction between sleeve and the outer as bland suggested because the sleeve/sheath doesn't move. Just the cable moves within the sheath
Posted 3 years ago # -
deft did. You read the instructions?
Basically-what jfeb said
Posted 3 years ago # -
read the instructions, as they are quite different from normal cables and it takes a bit of thinking to avoid mis-fitting them. jfeb has it right.
Posted 3 years ago # -
I read the instructions and understand how it works. It's just that I got sent the extra long kit for no extra and am only doing the rear der, so I was toying with the idea of doing a full length outer run
Posted 3 years ago # -
There is no advantage in running Gore Rideon cables with a full length outer. And to do it "properly" you would need to drill out your cable stops.
Posted 3 years ago # -
jfeb's right just do it as described. BTW if you have a SRAm rear mech you have to cut the teflon cable outer shorter that it says.
Posted 3 years ago # -
If you try & chop sections for the inner sheath, all you are creating is a variant on Avid Flack Jackets - which are a far less effective take on the Gore full length cable sheath system.
Use the Gore as designed, OR use a cheap full length outer over a standard cable, but to use Gore full length offers no additional benefit.
If you have excess then you could use the additional sheath and outer to do another bike / redo it in a couple of years. Just well lube a standard cable in it.
Posted 3 years ago # -
Got it cheers all
Posted 3 years ago #
Topic Closed
This topic has been closed to new replies.
