I bought some DMR V8s only 6 months ago.

I had previously been using spds (crank brothers candy and egg beaters). Now not going back, am liking the flats with some comfy five 10 shoes. Also fed up of trying to service the crank brothers pedals and not getting them working that well anyway. Not a fashion thing, I have an xc hard tail but decided to give flats a try and like them for the trail and xc type riding I do.

My DMR pedals have now developed loads of play, which has showed up much more now I have changed my wonky bottom bracket. I am not sure they are worth servicing (faff time, purchase of new bearings etc). I am thinking it is easier just to replace them.

Would like if possible:

1. £50 max
2. cartridge bearings/easy servicing
3. as wide as V8s
4. preferably lower profile

Any recommendations? Nukeproof/Atomlab do some for circa £50 on CRC, but not sure of the quality?

Nukeproof pedals are the same as the Nanos sold by Superstar, Exotic/Carboncycles, and Ready To Ride, but are much more expensive. So shop elsewhere… Good pedals though- reasonably sturdy, thin, not too lardy.

WEllgo’s MG1 is the other usual recommendation- lighter than the Nanos per pound spent, but thicker and a bit softer.

Both are grippy (MG1 grippier IMO, I removed pins from mine to calm them down).

Neither one is totally simple to service, but then they should last a lot longer than the V8s before they need attention.

Nanos, ht components nanos, kona wah wah’s – none of these will let you down, all pretty much the same pedal. Low profile, long lasting, good platform – much more support than the v8’s they will be replacing.

i been using the nukeproof ones that northwind mentions. still feel good as new after 9 months ish 🙂

I have a set of DMR V12, red, 4 rides old for sale. Think they are rebuildable too, pm if interested..

These ones (same as Superstar etc)…

http://www.carboncycles.cc/?s=0&t=2&c=84&p=940&amp

Have you considered a second hand pair of Burgtecs? They are lovely to use to fully rebuildable. Although maybe not as low profile as you want but they dont cost a fortune new for nothing !!! 🙂

My Kona Jackshit Primos have been excellent.

You’ve basically just described the Nano’s. I’ve got the thru pins and they’re great. Still lasting after 1.5 years of guiding. I’ve tried the plastic Nukeproof’s and they’re good too, just so long as you don’t need/want outright grip.

Rickmeister – thanks, probably looking for a change from DMR.

Regarding the Nano pedals some people have mentioned, what is the difference between Superstar Nano Thru Pin Pedals and Naon Techs? I am guessing this is something to do with pins on the pedals, but what is preferable for regular xc riding I do and what is the benefit of getting one over another? Prices seems identical.

Also, Nukeproof Proton and Neutron pedals seem to be exactly the same price at CRC (£49.99), but can’t see the difference in the models. Is one designed for a different use or more lightweight?

Thanks for the advice, will likely be ordering one or other of the above.

I have a set of V12’s which are at least 13 years old. Have been rebuilt a couple of times, but they are my lucky pedals (even being stripped off a bike just before it was nicked). They’ve been on a GT Timerline, 2x SC Hecklers, a Chameleon for a bit, a Blur LT and they sit on my LTc now.

I like the small platform, it means more grip and the shape is brilliant. I would like lower profile, but this seems to come with massively wide platforms which I don’t like. I’ve got some superstars on another bike and they look great, but I don’t like the feel.

Anyway if you like the V8’s, but want a sealed pedal, get some V12’s!

Don’t bin em!!!! really easy to repair and you just need some loose bearings, won’t cost a lot at all. And if you’ve got the tools, which aren’t specialist tools then it’ll take you 30 minutes max. Fix em there great pedals

Justy – have pumped the full of grease today to try and keep them going. I stupidly didn’t do this when I got them, so kind of my fault they wore quickly… 😕

If there is play, which parts need replacing – just ball bearings or bearings and spindles/axles?