[Closed] do you use a torque wrench.....

yes, on cassettes, cranks, forks and stems.

otherwise I tend to just nip stuff up.

what do you torque on a fork? or is that for rebuilding after service? (never quite trusted my ham-hands for that)

yes, for doing things back up after an oil or seal change.

Fork lowers and cranks are the only parts I will always use a torque wrench on. I've got a Thomson stem and I used to use the torque wrench but haven't the last few times, just nip it up until it's tight.

yes, on cassettes, cranks, forks and stems.

otherwise I tend to just nip stuff up.

Same here.

Yes.

No.

Thomson stems are easy to overtighten - I thought I was pretty competent at tightening things correctly but had to drill out a Thomson bolt. So I got a torque wrench. Sometime later I had repeated problems with a bolt braking on my carbon road bike, eventually got a replacement frame as that was the only solution to the problem, I only got this when the supplier checked that I was using a torque wrench then checked that it was accurate. I use a BBB one.

My mate says that in the back of his Zinn maintenance book it has a table of torque and effort, ie. 'two fingers-tight = x to y (approx range) amount of torque', anyone seen an online version of this? A quick look brings up nothing on Sheldon's site. Can't think of the right way to google search it either.

Generally i don't use a torque wrench. However having entered a EBB slipping and the subsequent over-tightening, slipping loop, I use a torque wrench on the EBB bolts - no slippage since
I've been hamfisted on front brake post mounts in the past as well - should/wished I'd used a torque wrench on those occasions 😥

Where are you based bikeryder85, if you're local I have one you can use for cake.

I've been wondering about this recently too when I was installing new handlebars. Didn't want to crush the bar in the stem.

Does anyone know a good place to buy a suitable torque wrench for bike maintenance? Hopefully not too expensive...

I need one of these

[url= http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/images/Torque.jp g" target="_blank">http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/images/Torque.jp g"/> [/img][/url]

cus of this

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I've never used one. Most of my hamfistedness seems to come from cross threading rather than over tightening, not that I do it much.

Built several bikes without one and never saw the need.

I've got fully calibrated arms.

[i]Built several bikes without one and never saw the need.[/i]

+1

So if you go replacing bars on a lightweight stem half a dozen times in its lifetime,without knowing what torque the bolts are upto, you dont mind hammering down a trail after gradually stressing the alloy threads each time you altered things up front? Maybe they were under torqued (fine if the bars never slipped) or maybe you are more heavy on the bolt tightening than you might think.

Enjoy the next ride ;O)

I`m sure some folk on here admit to doing things incorrectly just to start arguements.

I`m off out on the bike, i know how this thread will end up so enjoy the sunshine (through your window)

Yes. I got one back in the days of square tapered XT BB/Chainsets when if not torqued right, they squeaked like hell.

Many of the correct torques - especially around the bar/stem area, are a lot lower than you could easily otherwise apply with a basic allen key. With a torque wrench often costing less than a single wrecked component, it's not a lot for peace of mind really.

I bought one a couple of years ago as I treated myself to a new carbon road bike and didn't want to break anything. Started using it on the MTBs ever since, especially when there's carbon involved (less and less these days as budget tightens!). Mine is one of these:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/effetto-giustaforza-torque-wrench/

As above, expensive but cheaper than replacing broken parts.

Yes. More for not over tightening things. If I try without then check with the torque wrench it will 'click' straight away.
Bought it when I got some carbon bars, still managed to compress them.

I've got fully calibrated arms.

I was going to say this!!!

I have multiple torque wrenches, but they rarely get used, common sense and experience win.

Been riding and maintaining my bikes for nearly 20 years and never thought much of it, nip the bolt tight, job done.

But now so many parts are carbon and I think a torque wrench is becoming more essential.

Also last year I crashed in the TP race and when I got to my feet and checked the bars, they were loose. I have no idea if they were the cause of the crash or result of the crash. Either way two broken ribs later I decided to buy a torque wrench.

There's a few decent ones around for about 50 quid but the best thing I bought was a ritchey torque key. I think there are others that let you swap the size of the bolt fitting but I think it's a fab little tool.

Wow! thanks for all the responses! to answer LeeW I'm in the U.S. but thanks alot for the offer! I figure I may get one of the pre-set ones if I can. tho I'm not sure if they have a 5.5nm (recomended), found a 5 and a 6 tho...just not sure I want to foul up my stem or bars (very partial to the bars)

what about the canyon torque tool? I have one in my toolbox for some reason (nicked off a mate), it looks extremely inaccurate?

Not at the minute but been thinking of getting one (if the cheap ones are worth it) as I have a tendency to overtighten stuff.

any recommendations for a cheap one then? or anyone who has one but doesn't use it want to sell it to me?

got a mini click one and a park cantilver for bigger jobs.

can't see why any mechanic wouldn't have one. when I was a boat mechanic it was considered professional, right, must do. So we did it.

In mountain biking somehow its considered wrong to need a torque wrench. By the same guys who wear gay helmets no less.

Go figure.

I am very competent mechanically and to a degree also have calibrated arms and fingers but I still use one if needed for something I consider critical. For the sake of a couple of seconds checking and knowing it is right why not?

I got the sealey 2-24Nm one along with some good quality bits that only get used for the torque wrench and not used out under the car to undo rusty bolts.

I had issues with BB creaking and also the stem creaking and was wary about over tightening the bolts so invested in one of these:

[url= http://www.cyclestore.co.uk/productDetails.asp?productID=20794 ]Giant Torque Wrench[/url]

works a treat

Yes I use one.
http://www.ritcheylogic.com/dyn_prod.php?p=05-252-100&k=97993
Are good but I have heard there is one like this but you can change the allen bits.

I own one but never got the allen key heads or adapter for my socket set so still go by good old "Thats about it"

Used one on a work course once got them all done up to near perfect without the torque wrench

yep use it all the time.

I own one but I only use it for really sensitive stuff- cylinder heads and the like. Never really felt the need on the pushbikes, except to get the feel for the right tightness on my XTR cranks. I've got quite well calibrated torquefingers.

Ritchley one is cheap, but is preset to 5NM - do people just 'do it a bit more' with a spanner for the 6, 7NM settings. and 'almost but not quite' for the 4NM, or just do everything at 5 and reckon that's better than cranking it as tight as? (considering buying one now after reading this thread, but wanting to spend as little as sensibly possible for a rarely-used tool.....

I got one of these. Works really well.
Made in England!

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/norbar-13262-torque-wrench-1-4-ratchet-adjustable-dual-scale-1-20-n.m-10-180-lbf.in-p11812

I use them all the time.

I never owned one or felt the need for the last 20 years but got one recently. I have since discovered that the annoying creak on my road bike was from the crank bolts that weren't quite tight enough. 😕

was pondering this with a carbon bike and bits on the way - just ordered the Giant one, thanks

didn't use one for years, and relied on "experience" as many wrenches know, you get a "feel" for how tight things should be

started using them religiously in a new company (as a mechanic) and was shocked how many bolts were actually overtightened despite my "experience"

if you actually install a component like a Thomson X4 stem by hand with Park multi-tool or P-handle hex wrench, and then try checking it with a torque wrench, it can be quite revealing...

many of the bikes we see into our workshop have had internet purchased components installed at home "by hand" and the majority are overtightened with for example, stretched clamps on the stem faceplates, seatclamps and Shimano HT2 crankarm pinch bolts

always better to be tighter than looser, but we use torque wrenches for every bolt / lockring we fasten, and I purchased a "Pro" (madison) torque wrench for home use as I am working on Thomson, Easton, etc. at home on my own bikes

My lbs once told me there for people who don't know what there doing when i purchased my new bike. 3 rides later my crank arm fell off...

@Jamesy

in my experience, LBS (or any bike shop) that won't insist on use of torque wrenches in their workshops don't know what they are doing!!

a previous employer I worked for as a mechanic, would not pay for the torque wrenches that I repeatedly asked for, or their maintenance (re-calibration), which told me a lot about their attitude to both their mechanics and their customers