Probably just a horiz dropout n00b thing, but I’m having some issues..

I got a chaintug with the frame as it turned out (Virtue, so it’s a DMR though I’ve eseen the same tug advertised under a different name.

I put it on the drive side as recommended, but it fouls the freehub when cranked up (using a spaced cog on a normal wheel) so it won’t spin. Or it does abit and gouges bits off the freehub. Problem using them with t normal hubs? Or just a bit of a poor design? Or idiocy on my part :-)?

So I put it on the non drive side – then getting the wheel to sit straight is a real faff and I don’t have much confidence it’ll stay like that when I finally get it off the stand and into the mud. Everywhere I look suggest a single tug, drive side..
Any ideas? I’m convinced I’m doing something wrong but with nothing to compare it with I’m struggling.

maybe post a pic?

is it the rear part of the tug (at the end of the dropout) that’s fouling it? If so you need to shorten chain by either a half or one link.

Chaintug goes on outside, not inside of the frame?

I’m not quite sure what you are explaining but I think I know the tug you talk about, as I got these with my Kinesis decade frame and they dont work, as the tug wont screw in enough to tighten the chain properly, so I chucked it and got a Surly, Job done.

There are lots of tugs out there, different ones work well with different frames. Sometimes you have to shop around but for info, you really only need one on the drive side and it should go on the outside of the frame.

Once you’ve adjusted the drive side you should be able to move the non-drive side appropriately and just tighten things up, you’ll not move the non-drive side. If I can’t then no-one can.

I’ll post a picture of this again too.

hope this helps.

The tug is on the outside, but there is a little bit protruding on the inside – it sort of sits over and sits on the back of the dropouts if that makes any sense? They are THESE ones if it helps, but I’ve only the one. Even with the semi circle bulge facing out on the end, they still protrude in enough to foul the freehub

Taking a link out might make sense, yes, though I’m not sure I can – maybe a half link is needed. Bikes at home unfortunately, but that is sounding like the answer, thanks.

donks – same frame, this was one answer I was leaning toward but didn’t want to spend another £20 if I could avoid it.

Once you’ve adjusted the drive side you should be able to move the non-drive side appropriately and just tighten things up, you’ll not move the non-drive side. If I can’t then no-one can.

Ta, that addresses the alignment area of ignorance.

Am I going to be better off digging up a bolt up skewer out of the parts bin? Or is a QR fine once it’s all sat right?

I’ll post a picture of this again too.

swoon.

I think brant has it. the chaintug should be nearest the nut (or quick release acorn) it sounds like you have it nearest the hub.

like this

and there is no reason on earth why anyone should run a QR lever on the right. blugh.

EDIT: stoner is that your bike?!!

brant – Member
Chaintug goes on outside, not inside of the frame?

sounds like this to me

tomthumb wins ‘longest url of the day’.

[Edit] well he did…

riight.

either shorten the chain – to move the wheel forward in the dropout and away from the tug.

or file that bit off the tug. I have done this on some bmx tugs as they never seemed to fit. the back is now L shaped instead of U shaped.

wwwas don’t know what you mean 😉

mrs julian has one of those chain tugs on her slotty inbred (incidentally the same one is available not from dmr on ebay for about 1/3 the price, I think it was called a ‘savage’) and it sits really close to the lockring, probably only 1mm clearance.

As above, I’d buy a half link and try and fit the axle further forward in the dropouts with it, as otherwise they are pretty good tugs. Only other drawback is you need to take a 10mm spanner out riding with you to get the back wheel out, or learn to patch an inner tube without removing the wheel from the frame.

I really tried to make the tug work but the only way i could see off getting enough adjustment on the thing was to file away some of the material to give me a few more mm of adjustment. Trust me a few extra quid on a better tugg design is well worth it….plus the surly ones dont need any tools to adjust, it’s just so much easier.

I had to send my frame back after about 3 months due to a split in the seat tube and Kinesis were really good and i had a new one about 2 days after posting it… I really rate the bike and hope you have as much fun on yours as i have on mine.

I have an earlier version os those chaintugs and they work fine for me. My versions don’t wrap around the end of the dropout like those seem to do – is this the bit that is fouling the freehub? Or the part that the axle sits in? If its the tab, can you just file it off?

like this:

Actually – reading up on lgfss, those tugs seem to be designed to fit both SS MTB and fixed road – I could really do with one for my SS road hack – can to swap for an older dmr version as I showed above? Might fit your frame better …

http://www.lfgss.com/thread49319.html

Samuri – how did you bend that tug? Wheel slipping?

Actually – reading up on lgfss, those tugs seem to be designed to fit both SS MTB and fixed road – I could really do with one for my SS road hack – can to swap for an older dmr version as I showed above? Might fit your frame better

I’ll give the suggestions a go over the weekend (excluding the filing down – though I can see the logic) – if I don’t get any joy I’ll let you know and I’d be happy to swap, nothing lost even if I end up getting a Surly tug. It is the bit that wraps around the end thats the issue, hence losing a link may very well be the solution.

donks – I can’t wait, it looks a cracking bike – the frame it’s replacing is a bit tired and lacking in disc mounts or V stops (just ran a full cable) but it’s been great all the same, so I’m hoping this is at least as good.

yep that’s my bike. And I always put the QR on the other side from the rotor to stop burning my hand if I want to fix a puncture at the bottom of a descent etc.

The aesthetics of one side over another are lost on me Im afraid.

adh, i’ve got a pair of those that didn’t solve a problem i had with chain tension on my inbred that you can have if you want?

I tried to singlespeed a P2 with the ‘dmr’ tugs. It was a nightmare. I had to use the two (one each side) to get the wheel to sit straight.

The bits intended to wrap around the dropouts didn’t fit well enough to provide purchase against which to tighten up the tug. They never held.

I ended up buying the surly which worked great until the screw got mashed. I will buy another surly though.

yep that’s my bike. And I always put the QR on the other side from the rotor to stop burning my hand if I want to fix a puncture at the bottom of a descent etc.

The aesthetics of one side over another are lost on me Im afraid.

I always find the QR undoes slowly if I put it on the dis side too – maybe I own several pairs of poor QRs and am overly forgetfull.. still easier not to have the bother.

Having had another go, I can’t see how this would ever work with a spaced normal freehub – there is a slot on the tug that slides into the drop out, but even as far forward as it’ll go, the back clip on bit of the tug still fouls the hub – this is with the chain off. Probably fine with a ss specific hub, but thats an expense too far for now. Sits in nicely on the non drive side, but I am concerned my raw beast like power will drag the wheel forward 😉 or worse just out of square and bend something.

Just checking the paypal account might be surly time off charlie again 🙂

Samuri – how did you bend that tug? Wheel slipping?

I guess it must have but I’m notoriously brutal when doing wheel nuts up. I’ve had problems with wheel slippage in the past.