I’ve got a pair of SLX M675 brakes and the pads are pretty much gone. Instead of the finned pads they came with I’ve bought G01A resin pads without fins.

I thought that there was a little air in the system so prior to fitting I popped the yellow bleed block into the calipers, attached the bleed funnel, added mineral oil and pumped out some air which should have left the system air free.

Having fitted the pads the levers are really firm and I can’t adjust the calipers to that the discs won’t drag on the rotors.

Do I have too much oil in the system or do I just need to let the pads wear in? This is the first pad change I’ve done on the SLX brakes.

There is a way to reset the pistons, knocking the lever while the pads are out produces similar symptoms, so might be worth a try, quick google should find it.

Put your old pads back in, shove a screwdriver in between them, and lever them open as far as they will go to push the pistons back.

Then, put the new pads in, undo the caliper bolts, pull the lever, tighten the bolts.

Ride. Win.

We’ll I’ve had a ride about and the pads stop the bike, which is the main thing. Rotor rub is minimal (the G01A pads and spring seem move about a bit more in the absence of the fins) but the levers do harden much more quickly than previously although there did seem to be a little air in the system (probably from a couple of hose shortening sessions without a re-bleed). I’ve had to wind the lever reach in a bit to avoid finger ache but everything seems to work; I’ll just have to see how it goes.

Thanks. I did put the pistons all the way in prior to topping up the system and fitting the pads.

I quite like a fairly instant pull on mine so purposefully bleed them with more oil by removing the caliper and pumping the lever until the pads are nearly touching before bleeding.

If I end up with too much, what I’ve done before is to open the bleed nipple(with a tube fitted), very slightly pull the lever and hold it, then close the bleed again.
You lose a little fluid and should feel a difference at the lever.
It’s a bit trial and error but I’ve sorted it that way before.

The bite point screw on the shimano is purely decoration as far as I can tell 🙂