Anyone running SRAM XX1 yet?

269 euros?

Friend of mine started a race yesterday on his brand new never ridden XX1, the chain broke on the first climb and he went home.

dirtyrider – Member
269 euros?

yeah… £246 is still rather a lot of money.. especially when i can get an XT 11-36 for £45ish….

cassettes are consumable parts, alright not more than one every 2 or 3 years for me, but still… £246 is a LOT of money comparatively….

Still waiting on bits for my setup.. got the cassette and shifter before Christmas but still waiting for the crank and derailleur.. obviously popular as the dates keep getting put back.

Wasn’t too bothered as I was waiting for American Classic to bring out a freehub body, but it looks like it is now available!

More rider feedback ?

Coming from a rather tired 1×9 XT set up I have to say that the performance of XX1 is simply fantastic.

1×9 was fine through the winter but now its mountain time again I need the lower gears again; XX1 gives me that without requiring a second chainring or the re-fitting of my Hammerschmidt… much as I liked the HS this is a far neater solution to get the gear spread.

It’s expensive, but I’m worth it 😉

Been running mine now for 4 months on the AM bike, racing the UKGE’s too and as said by others previously it works great, no dropped chains and smooth shifting in all weather conditions.

The only negatives I could quote are that you lose a bit of mid range going 1 x 11 compared to 2 x 10, initially the difference in gearing when changing up 1 ring when on the gas was too much and you’d be dropping back down again. I tend to ‘spin’ a bit more now and the problem isn’t as noticable.

The other ‘problem’ is with regards the X-sync teeth on the chainring and jockey wheels, they do tend to hang onto trail muck more than normal profile teeth, so the tooth brush has to come out every wash to get all of the crap off of them. Performance wise, even though they do tend to ‘clog’ with muck, they still perform 😀

Good info on the clogging with mud… but I’m sure it will clog less than a Hammerscmidt or Silent Guide 😉

13 months of use, very little in the way of maintenance, lots of muddy rides, chain never dropped even in the condition shown, 1500 miles at least

impressive fang teeth there! out of interest Dirtyrider, is the cassette goosed too?? or have you been regularly changing the chain?

ive not changed chains, which i should have done, of course, its been ridden mostly in the condition from my january pic, lubed with Pure Dry Lube prior to every ride, cleaned maybe 3/4 times and jetwashed a couple of times,

heres a couple of pics of the cassette from earlier today, ive got a new chainring/cassette/jockey wheels to fit, although will be a couple of days before i do so, however, it looks “ok” id expect the steel cassette to wear better than the ali chainring/plastic jockey wheels

I have to ask was that chainring still working ok in that state?

I think I’d be pretty disappointed if the jockey wheels and rings looked like that after 1500 miles! My Mt Zoom jockey wheels and soft Absolute Black chainring have done a similar amount on XTR 1×10 and are worn but still have their shape. EDIT: Only washed the bike 3 or 4 times in 13 months 😯

Well it’s here:

For the weight weenies!

Cassette 269g
Chainset (gxp 170mm 32t no bb) 566g
Trigger (with inner cable) 108g
Grip shift (with inner cable) 105g
Grip shift half grip 36g
Matching left hand full grip 62g
Rear mech 241g

The trigger weight is misleading as you have to add 25g for the clamp. For the real weight weenies 😳

Cassette 268g
Chainset (FSA K-Force Light crank, Alu bolts, AB ring) 506g (£197)
Trigger shifter (with inner cable, CF matchmaker to XTR M985 brakes, Ti bolts) 113g
Rear mech (with Alu jockey bolts, KCNC 12T jockey wheels, Fibre Lyte Inner cage) 225g
XX1 Chain 238g

All those additions saves pretty much bang on 100g over stock (including XX1 crank) for around £40 more (taking the CRC XX1 crank price in to account). Not too bad.

Friend of mine started a race yesterday on his brand new never ridden XX1, the chain broke on the first climb and he went home.

SRAM revised the tech docs to say chain length should be big-big plus 4 links but the chains are still shipping with instructions saying 2 links which might explain this

chainring was working fine

i think its fair to say regardless of miles (1500 isnt loads i guess), thats worn fairly well, its fairly obvious from what you’ve said and your pics last year to todays present ones that its never massively cleaned etc etc, so i dont think thats too bad given the lack of maintenance with it

the cassette looks like its still ok, but is hard to judge, will be interesting to see if it shifts ok with a new chain/chainring!

im keeping my cassette clean pretty religously so i expect if thats lasted a year like that i should get a bit more mileage out of it for myself

also DR what replacement Jockey wheels did you go for? just the XX1 one ones again?

depends on the 1500 miles, you can be out all day in the peaks and only do 20 miles

I’m quite happy with the wear, given the conditions i know its been ridden in and where and the lack of maintenance, if the cassettes ok it will cost me £35 chain, £45 jockeys and £55 chainring to replace, which i reckon as a yearly bill is ok, as i picked it up from the bike shop last November and I’ve not replaced anything on the bike,

just thought id share my real world wet and muddy review

Impressive it has lasted so well through that kind of use.

Any 12T jockey wheels will work fine for anyone not fancying £45 for the SRAM spares

yes just the stock ones

dirtyrider – Member
depends on the 1500 miles, you can be out all day in the peaks and only do 20 miles

I’m quite happy with the wear, given the conditions i know its been ridden in and where and the lack of maintenance, if the cassettes ok it will cost me £35 chain, £45 jockeys and £55 chainring to replace, which i reckon as a yearly bill is ok, as i picked it up from the bike shop last November and I’ve not replaced anything on the bike,

just thought id share my real world wet and muddy review

agreed i only did 2200 miles on my bike last year (all mtb dont own a road) and did 368,000 feet of climbing in that, doesnt sound alot mileage wise but climbing its averaging over 3000ft per ride, and just 20 miles average length per ride, all in the peak!!! and that 3000ft climbing in the grit in the peak is going to be doing damage to your drive train every single ride, whether it be 10-20-30 miles

so like dirtyrider i see what he means, and i think if you’ve not replaced a thing you have defo done well, the chainring looks fubared but again given the amount of grit and crap that gets in there and you’ve not cleaned it its last pretty well for a year in those conditions

im looking after mine, as in a bit too much really (more than id like/have the time), but im hoping to get well over a year out of the cassette and i will keep changing the chain a bit earlier too….

its good to know riding the peak in all the shit/grit/mud etc that you have a cassette that looks in ‘ok’ condition

let us know if your shiftings still sweet though (with old cassette) when you put the new stuff on please 🙂

and thanks for the update/info

no worries, will update when i get round to fitting/riding,

i have the same setup on my Krampus, but ive only done sub 200 miles on that, ill (try to) keep that one cleaner 😆

dirtyrider cheers

yeh id defo do a bit more maintaining on it 😆

was most of your riding in the peak then?

mattjg – Member

Friend of mine started a race yesterday on his brand new never ridden XX1, the chain broke on the first climb and he went home.

That’s just your classic bathtub failure curve- stuff is most likely to fail when very new or very old, first ride shows up manufacturing and installation defects (or shipping damage) rather than really testing reliability.

was most of your riding in the peak then?

no, but there was some peak riding in there, i was just making a point that not everyones 1500 miles is the same,

through another set of jockey wheels on the Krampus, 6 months, about bang on 600km, teeth are fine, bearing is ceased, zero maintenance, bit fragile?

also, on the tallboy, i have a “clunk” in the rear mech, i thought it was the frame bearings/shock, removed the shock, compressed the bike, clear “vibration” clicky clunk to the mech, removed the chain, no issue