Would look at buying some vernier calipers, a very useful tool to have.

For the headset, pretty easy to ID if it’s a ZS, IS or EC, and it will be a 44 top, if you have a taped fork, that answers the bottom.

Alternately get the LBS to ID it all when fitting?

Or do a bit of Googling, which brings all this back Trek Remedy 2012 specs and then the headset details taken from the specs[/url]

Mike Hall managed the Tour Divide with on, USE Revo, so not seeing any issue with using dynamo lights for any event

Another for the Lezyne Flow, nice and cheap (esp if you buy a 2 pack), feel well made, fitted them on 2 bikes this summer, and have done a few thousand KM with them on now.

Can’t seen any reason for the carbon fiber version, weight just 14g less and costs a lot more.

Have an Mk1 Kaffenback, and have run 23-28mm tires on it at various times, have had 28mm Conti Top Contact’s for the last 4-5 years, great but expensive tires, never had a puncture with them. The bike stays mainly on road, but if bridleways are avaliable, it goes on them.

Having used 4 Seasons before, nice tires, but Schwalbe Durano’s do the same for far less money.

For Schwalbe Marathons, without knowing which version you are looking at, impossible to know it they will be any good, you can get cheap, heavy ones, or superfast light versions, which will cost, but are far better than the cheap ones, a quick look at the Schwalbe site indicates the nice ones are only available in big 38mm+ sizes.

They are nice, found mine on the climb up Pecket Well a few years ago.

Works fine, till the Race Face seizes (mine lasted about a year)

When inserting back into the insert, add some washing up liquid to act as a lube, makes the pad slide in real easy.

Another Swissstop user here, the BXP (Blue) are better then the Green GHP II, next time I need some, will go for the Flash Evo

Never got all this maintenance required with Shimano hubs still have an old 737 from around 1996 which was used over multiple winters which has never been serviced and is still as smooth as the day it was bought, the only reason it’s not used now is the frame it was on broke.

Have multiple XT, LX & XTR hubs of different generations, all used to different extents, non need maintenance. Cheap and come with skewers is a big plus as well, although the weight isn’t so good with them.

Done

SON = spade connectors; SP, Shimano and just about everyone else use the plastic connector.

It’s not an OEM part, remove it / leave it if it works. just keep the stanchion / seal area clean

Which one? 5 on the calender, 3 are fairly flat and should be easy, one is fairly hilly, and one is very hilly.

Mavic wheels normally need a spacer part M40417, Having used slightly older Crossride wheels, they still needed this regardless of the cassette used, thinking you may have binned it with the old cassette, You should be able to order the part from any good LBS, link to the part at CRC.

If your LBS has an Extra account, you can get Enduro bearings via them, was looking for frame bearing recently, and they were the cheapest option 6902 options here

Why not look and see if & when they (the buyer) gives feedback? Some just don’t, ever, some do upon receipt, some do it by batch every few weeks/months, just live with it.

Each to their own with what lasts or works

Have found Fenwicks foaming degreaser to be one of the best products i’ve used over the last few years, changed the way I clean the bike, as it’s quick & easy, far easier than using a chain cleaner device, have used several, and never found one that worked well..

Have found Aldi gloves last well, yes they fall apart, but only after a lot of use & several years, far better VFM than On-one gloves which just fall apart (although they are nicer while they last)

Can you recycle those things? They seem like a bit of a waste.

Just chuck the used ones in with steel recycling, as once empty, it’s just a bit of steel.

Some tire/rim combinations really don’t like being paired together, have had some Conti tires that just won’t work with a rim, when another Conti will.

You may need to over pressure the tire to get it to seat, I have a similar issue with a Conti GrandSport Race on a Stans Alpha 400, takes a lot of pressure to seat correctly

You need the SHIS enter the measurements, and it will tell you.

I run 37mm Schwalbe Marathon Dureme on my 2011 Vaya, plenty of room to go a bit larger.

Have one which has been through several frames now, one of the best value for money EC headsets out there.

Looks OK, but no tapered headtube! given almost all aftermarket forks are now tapered inc rigid, the frame is a deadend before it’s available for any future upgrade-ability.

Shimano has never made a ISIS BB, so forget the XTR from Rose idea

If you want one to last, SKF is the only option, see yesterdays thread for details

A similar Question was asked a few days ago, answer your question

How old is your bike, and is there any warranty to be had on your failed wheel?

Straight pull spokes = possibly very hard to get replacement + expensive, in this case, would re-use if the new rim is the same or has the same ERD.

Not a lot more yet, White Industries CX11 (if you have loads of money)
Novatec D712SB-11 for a bit less.

Still waiting for Shimano to bring some out with 32 hole drilling.

Are you really going to make a saving on UK/German prices? on other forums, most Americans seem to buy from the UK.

If I was going to order stuff in the US, would be looking at stuff you can’t get here – Paul, WickWerks etc

Normally have a look at buyers left feedback, if they haven’t left any after a few weeks, often, the buyers either leave feedback once a month or so, or never. Don’t bother chasing, especially when getting near to the paypal/protection cutoff date.

For the community, as mentioned, it’s not anymore, too many shops, and it died a death after ebay started hiding the bidder/buyer ID’s from all users, before, you got to know who people were, and could follow their interests, now, it’s virtually impossible to do this.

BH-90 (Silver insert)

Fulcrum Racing 7, can be had for £113 from Ribble, they knock a whopping 241g (not sure if the Shimano weight includes the QR’s though) off. Have used 7’s for the last 6-7 years, 20000+ km, the only issues I have had was when a rear got bent after being hit by a car.

Got a Trabec from Cycle Surgery when they had a sale on them a year or so ago, and ended up paying about £60 for it, nice as it is (and it fits very well), it’s no better than any other £60 helmet, and I don’t think I could ever justify paying full retail for one.

No crash replacement discount isn’t good either.

You do pay VAT on items bought from Germany, but it’s at their rate (at source) of 19%, not UK 20% rate, with no additions, import duty etc being as it’s a EU country.

Another Fulcrum 5 CX user here, they work fine

Finished this evening, glad it’s over for another year, but now have quite a few hills I enjoy more, as going up them has been getting easier; the descents have been getting faster as well, although my arms started to give out on the Holme Moss to Woodhead Pass today.

Got a Selcof chain really cheap from Planet X a few months ago, a few thousand Audax KM later it’s still working well.

Having used a Son Delux (~10,000 km), SP SD-8(~4000km) & Shimano T785 (~2500km) apart from the weight of the Shimano, there’s nothing between them for performance.

The next-gen Shimano (2015) should eliminate the weight issue, then it will be just which you can get in the fitting you want for the price you want to pay.

Find the S.H.I.S

For the rear, why not just buy a service kit and do it yourself, not that hard, plenty of good how to vids on Youtube

Bikes the wrong way round for taking a photo as well, and the cranks aren’t level/wrong side forward, there are rules[/url]#26 for taking photos of bikes.