Stems where you tighten the top bolts all the way down… Enve, Hope Gravity, any others?

Renthal

Too many to list all of them I’d imagine.

Joystick

Ragley, Nukeproof . . .

Dmr

Raceface Turbine R, Affect R
Bird Blank

Intend, three rock, 5Dev, 77designs

*in that, they are 2 bolt stems, that bolt at the bottom.

Why’d ya ask?

Pro Koryak stem does this.

tomhoward

Why’d ya ask

May need a new 35×35 stem, find zero gap convenient for a bike that often has bars removed to go in a bag.

Two bolt jobs are ruled out for thw same reason.

Unite

For packing a bike down, I’ve always found it easier to remove the stem from the steerer. Then it’s a matter of getting the stem straight rather than having to get the bar roll back where it was. Drop a few spacers on the steerer just to keep the forks in place.

Nukeproof Horizon ticks all the boxes imho, well made, nice wide face plate, good set up markings makes in easy to put bars back in exactly the same place, looks very nice, decent weight & stiffness, plenty options and good value and actual no gap design, not overpriced boutique that don’t even fit the criteria and don’t allow higher rise bars and are also a pain to remove regularly so no point mentioning 🙄

I still don’t know what zero gap means and why it helps the OP?

Instead of tightening the faceplate evenly at both top and bottom, some stems, e.g. Easton are tightened by tightening the top bolts fully to torque first, and then you tightening the bottom bolts, hence there is zero gap at the top. Why this makes it easier for him, I’m not sure

Onzadog

For packing a bike down, I’ve always found it easier to remove the stem from the steerer. Then it’s a matter of getting the stem straight r

I hate trying to align a stem far too much to get involved in that. Have a OnnUup tool also, so it adds fiddliness.

I’ve always found it easier to remove the stem from the steerer.

Problem Solver do a bolt up stem spacer. If you use that instead of one of your stem spacers you don’t even need to worry about your fork falling out or getting the headset tension just right.

having to get the bar roll back where it was

Easily fixed by marking with a sharpie before removal. Same goes for levers.

I use both of these methods on different bikes.

Bikeyoke do similar, little clampy spacer but the OneUp means I’d need to bring a cassette tool to refit the stem.

I’m a sharpie on the bars user, although I know my own bar roll so rarely need to refer to it.

OneUp means I’d need to bring a cassette tool to refit the stem.

My OneUp tool has a tool that fits the cap.

Yeah, but it’s a pretty crap cassette tool

Well I’d not fit a cassette with it but it’s enough for the tensioning the headset.

No gap stems are made for OCD sufferers who otherwise need to get the gap exactly even above and below the bars before they can ride 😂

Instead of tightening the faceplate evenly at both top and bottom, some stems, e.g. Easton are tightened by tightening the top bolts fully to torque first, and then you tightening the bottom bolts, hence there is zero gap at the top. Why this makes it easier for him, I’m not sure

Fewer goes around each bolt when tightening I guess?

As a design it does seem more likely that less care (or no torque wrench) is needed by average joe to get even clamping force in all directions.

yep, more carbon bar friendly

Is the Nukeproof one meant to be done like that? I’m not sure I have been.

FSA, one-up, syncros

I’ve used Renthal Apex stems, Raceface Aeffect R, and currently on a Raceface Turbine R. All have worked perfectly well. Easy setup, no slippage.