I was all set to push the button and order a Park work stand when I suddenly wondered how to use it. My Jekyll has an internally routed dropper, currently a Lev but soon to be a Reverb.
I know you shouldn’t clamp to droppers but I can’t remove the post and disconnect the hose every time I use the stand.
What’s the answer guys?

Undo seat clamp, expose a couple of inches of the post body, use that. Or clamp the top tube.

^what he said

Undo seat clamp, expose a couple of inches of the post body, use that

Works for me

Thanks. For some reason I though clamping droppers was not good.

I clamp my Reverb in my Park stand, am i going to wreck it?

That’s what the Reverb manual suggests, by the way. You’re not supposed to clamp the dropper ‘stanchion’ but that’s kinda obvious.

Final question: Anyone got anything bad to say about the Park PCS9 vs the PCS10?

Also, if you can, allow the weight to centre before you clamp the rotational part. That way, the dropper is only in tension with no bending moment applied.

Another option is the bike rack adaptors that provide a bar between saddle and bars, then clamp that.

Nope, but the other recommendation for a home work stand is the one the Ribble and a few others sell under various brands, On-One had it for £40 last week in their Jobsworth range. I think mines badged as “bike mate” ?

I always found clamping the seatpost wasn’t very stable as all the weight was infront, clamping on the seatube or on the top tube is closer to the COG unless you do all your work with the front of the bike pointing down.

Its a carbon frame so I feel a bit worried about clamping any of it, especially with the very non rounded sections.
Thanks for all the advice, and I shall check out the Ribble stand.

If it’s just a “hold the bike upright” job then I can’t recommend the Andy Stands enough, assuming your BB/ Crankset can take it

I’ve lost count of the number of people that have stopped me in car parks etc to ask about it. I should be on commission. I reckon 95% of my tinkering is done with the Andy Stand now

Home

1/ of course you can clamp a Dropper post. What do you think the seat clamp on your frame is doing?

2/ clamping the top tube is OK, even when it’s made of carbon. Aluminium frames are paper thin and are more likely to be damaged and, as you are going to be nearer the CoG, you need only a very small clamping force. Almost none at all in some cases.

+1 Ribble and top tube. You do want a QR tbh.

I clamp my aluminium top tube in the park stand but I fill the jaws with a soft towel and make sure that’s double wrapped around the top tube and make sure any external routed cables don’t get squished too.

If I clamp my reverb by the stanchion then I’ve got an old DH innertube that I sliced lengthways and cut a section out. Wrap that round the stanchion then clamp it

Just like having your seat clamp too tight, reverbs won’t like too much clamping force on their main body, so go easy.

Mine lost air pressure because of too much clamping force.

I always go top tube mounting (or floating) about its cog with a very light clamping force.

I always found clamping the seatpost wasn’t very stable as all the weight was infront

You need a better stand…

That ribble one isn’t that stable – I had a Minoura one which is the same in the legs.

I think the legs on the PCS10 splay out wider so I would go for that one.

i have a bike workshop quality one that weighs more than the bike and seatpost is less stable as it is not balanced but it will hold it

Mine wont fall over but you can tell.

I had one of these generic ones that a lot of brands seem to sell, and I’d recommend against it. Not very stable, and the ABS ratchet on the head doesn’t withstand any pedalling or braking forces well without the bike dropping. Indexing gears on it was a total pain in the balls.

I’ve used Park and Cyclo ones since and they’re much better.

I’ve been using one of those stands for around 7-8 years and the head is only just starting to lose it’s ability to retain a good, horizontal, angle. Works fine if I let the front wheel droop though.

I use a feedback stand. Had park/other brands before but the feedback is just better everywhere. Stable, light, superbly made, and the best clamp in the world(tm). Cost me £160 but since my last stand lasted 10 years, I felt this was a good investment.

AndyStands are also good. Have one of those, but if you run RF turbine cranks, they are 18mm diameter and don’t fit the stands.. I think Andy is going to make some 18mm ones in the future.

Oh and I clamp my reverb. But then I’m a mechanical savage 😉

You need a better stand…

That ribble one isn’t that stable – I had a Minoura one which is the same in the legs.

I think the legs on the PCS10 splay out wider so I would go for that one.

In addition to being more stable it’s also:
Less clamping force
Not twisting the seat post at an angle
It doesn’t spin round in the clamp
It’s easier to get it in the clamp because the bike wants to stay level.
Stronger (imagine those forces on a seatpost/seatube when you hammer out an old headset).

Upsides of clamping seatpost:
Looks pro
Scratches seatpost rather than frame

The other advantage of seatpost clamping is that, as the bike rotates forward somewhat, you end up with mechs and shifters all at about the same height. Given a lot of general fettling tends to be with these I see this as a positive

I just lightly clamp mine around the top tube. It’s supported buy just resting in the bottom of the clamp and then I lightly close the clamp so there’s minimal pressure on the frame. Been doing it with alu and carbon bikes for years. Just don’t be ham fisted when doing it.

I’ve had a Park Tools stand for years now and it’s taken a lot of use and abuse and still working flawlessly it’s also really stable. Not sure which one, but it has 2 legs and cost around £100 years ago. It is quite heavy though.
Tom KP