Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • Which full retention(top and bottom) chain device for 1×10 speed?
  • MussEd
    Free Member

    Search function seems determined to only throw up classified ads, but I’d like to know which top and bottom chain guides people are using for a single ring up front?

    Had a BS Stinger on in France last month, and lost the chain a fair bit on full on DH tracks whereas it hadnt been a problem at home on local trails…

    Not that bothered about a taco/skid plate version and could probably get away with a top only for 85% of my riding but thought I’d try one of the newer lighter versions which would also cover Fort Bill and Alps trips for minimal weight penalty…

    So what are we using STW peeps?

    neil853
    Free Member

    Until recently I was using a MRP Mini G2, had it on for 18 months and never lost the chain once so can definitely recommend one. However I’ve just returned from the alps and all I had was a front mech (gone to 2×10 for some climbing) and a clutch rear mech. Didn’t loose the chain all week…….. Make of that what you will 🙂

    makeitorange
    Free Member

    Running an e-thirteen SRS (that’s essentially an LG1 and a bash ring) it’s been great so far (never lost the chain and no premature wear on jockey wheel) , don’t know exact weight i’m afraid but it didn’t feel heavy.

    alfabus
    Free Member

    If you don’t want a taco, check out the MRP lopes SL. not cheap but nice and light and performs very well. I am still yet to lose the chain despite lots of hamfisted DH and jumps, and 2 weeks in the alps.

    Dave

    MussEd
    Free Member

    Mmm, Neil853 is tempting me to gor for the top only option…saves £££s and weight and with the clutch mech the bottom bit looks as if it might be more or less redundant…

    DaveyBoyWonder
    Free Member

    Like Neil, I’ve been running an MRP Mini G2 for about 2 years now. Again, not dropped the chain once. I like the added security of the top and bottom (and taco – I like bashing into stuff) guide plus I don’t (at the moment) run a clutch rear mech.

    mboy
    Free Member

    MRP Lopes SL here for a year or so now. It’s expensive for what it is, and the plastics are a little fragile so be careful when setting it up or adjusting it, but not lost the chain once whilst running it.

    Had an E13 LG1 on another bike before this, similar story as it just didn’t drop the chain either. Though I remember it being a big PITA to setup right in comparison the the MRP, but that might just be me.

    Tempted by the MRP Mini G2 though myself as it’s essentially the Lopes but with a bit more material on it in places it might be useful…

    Without wishing to sound all “GW” on you (though I undoubtedly will, and he’ll agree with me also), but top only guides really don’t work very well in the rough tough world of mountain biking. Not if you’re riding at all hard and fast… How many DH bikes do you see with a top only guide for instance?

    mildred
    Full Member

    Although I’m biased & this is a shameless plug, this one on my for sale:

    http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-clearout-of-quality-stuff

    The Gamut P40, P30 etc. are very light and sturdy, and in a couple of years of using their stuff I’ve not had a chain come off. Very quiet too.

    carlphillips
    Free Member

    pooperstar plasma? im looking at one or the lg1 atm and can’t see a lot of difference?

    fwiw my straightline silent guide has been good in the uk but dogpoop in the alps where it dropped a chain/jammed on pretty much every dh run i did as soon as i got into the brakingbumps…i had to spacer it out some more from the bb to bring it closer to the chain but the gap between bash and ring still allowed the chain to foul/snag/drop…not good really.

    MussEd
    Free Member

    mboy – I’m inclined to agree, but after Neil853’s comment I thought twice about dropping approx £100 when £40ish would cover it. So is STW collective wisdom that the new clutch style mechs – and the claims by manufacturers/magazines that you dont need the bottom guide – are balderdash then?

    rob-jackson
    Free Member
    MussEd
    Free Member

    Thanks but I’ve ordered an E13 offering…

    Rivett
    Free Member

    MRP Lopes here. Has been really good. Alps and a few of the UK Gravity Enduro rounds. Running 1×9.

    Brycey
    Free Member

    Hmm. I agree in principle with mboy, however I’ve seen a few folk recently getting away with top only due to clutch mechs. Just building a new bike and can’t decide whether to play safe or try it. Anyone ridden any DH, the Mega, etc with top and clutch?

    _tom_
    Free Member

    I’m using a Sunline V1 guide and its been pretty good so far! 34t minimum though and requires a bash ring to work so maybe not suitable depending where you ride.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Sounds liek you’re already sorted, but here’s my 2p anyway.

    Sraitline silentguide, does exactly what it says on the tin, never droped the chain on the trail (although somehow it’s managed it twice int he car!). I went with the bash style guide as the bashless ones seem aimed at hardtails where the BB stays well up from the ground, and taco’s seem to be disposable.

    That and they did a dedicated 32t version which gives huge ground clerance on a trail bike.

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)

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