Viewing 36 posts - 41 through 76 (of 76 total)
  • Unobtrusive rear mudguards that work?
  • a11y
    Full Member

    Not to sound like a complete tart, but do you have a pic with the Cycraguard fitted?

    They all look shite IMO, but at least serve a purpose – this is the Cycraguard:

    a11y
    Full Member

    (excuse the lack of mud/rain, but the weather cleared somewhat since setting out that morning!)

    mountaincarrot
    Free Member

    Rear Cycraguard:

    08102009193 by mountaincarrot, on Flickr

    WackoAK
    Free Member

    No mention of the Topeak Defender M2?

    Great bit of kit.

    Jamie
    Free Member

    No mention of the Topeak Defender M2?

    It is currently between the M2 and the CycraGuard. CycraGuard is a touch cheaper tho.

    FOG
    Full Member

    My M2 broke in a very minor get off on its first outing

    simons_nicolai-uk
    Free Member

    M2 is best for actually keeping the mud and spray off as it’s big enough. QR clamp isn’t up to the job though – mine was replaced with a hose clip and wrapped in electical tape. Effective but not pretty. The other problem is that the plastis is fairly brittle on the ‘arm’ and the joints – sit on it and you’ll probably break it.

    The Cyraguard is pretty good. Better coverage than the crud and the materal and the rubber pivot point mean it can take some rough treatment. The QR bracket is pretty bulky and heavy so the new bolt on clamp would be good if you’re going to leave it on the bike.

    Decathlon looks best of all – *almost* worth speccing a bike with canti mounts to fit that…

    Jamie
    Free Member

    Just ordered CycraGuard as it was a bit cheaper. Probably only get used in the wettest of weathers. Also treated myself to one of those nifty Bender Fenders from Mucky Nutz for a tenner.

    Sorted.

    lipseal
    Free Member

    Anyone got one of THESE

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Crudcatcher looks OK…

    But it did take quite a bit of work to get that to stay where I wanted it to and stop rattling and rotating. New shims, plastic welded the bracket to the blade… Supposedly both issues now resolved with the new ones, guess we’ll see.

    5AM
    Free Member

    I’d be interested to know how effective those “Bender Fenders” are, please post feedback once you’ve tried it out.

    juiced
    Free Member

    have a look at these

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10680

    never used one mind.

    Jamie
    Free Member

    I’d be interested to know how effective those “Bender Fenders” are, please post feedback once you’ve tried it out.

    Will do. I went for one as I do not ever have a mudguard on the front, but figured as it is so light and out the way and actually works then why not if it stops the odd dog egg from launching itself at my face. Also the design seems to keep the crap away from the stanchions, which those RRP ones I looked at as well seem to cause an increase in as mud etc sluices off the guard.

    LoveTubs
    Free Member

    I tried the new Topeak rear after I foooked a crudcatcher DIY..erm..mod..

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=32474

    utter shite, and the ‘quick release’ is about as user friendly as a Lumicycle bar clamp 😯

    I’ve found that they work until it really chucks it down and the puddles become BB deep. Then, if you’re razzing it, they’re virtually useless…get covered/soaked anyways.

    LoveTubs
    Free Member

    Someone needs to make em in carbon fibre, not carbon ‘look’ craaap, what about a colour choice….might help to detract the eye??

    LoveTubs
    Free Member

    I think the solution will be of the form of MotoX goggles. Where one can rip off a strips (that are layered..up to 5 or 10)of clear plastic as they become caked in mud.

    We could then drop said plastic onto the trail for others to follow, add colour and bingo, trail markers! It’d virtuallt eliminate the need for a Gaymin over-night 😆

    MisterCrud
    Free Member

    Hi Singletrackers

    We had a whole load of tolerance probems with the original single-bolt Raceguard, but they work great now.
    They are also much lighter than the competition, and better-looking in my opinion.
    All the ones in the shops will now be of the latest design, but anyone having problems with a single-bolt one, contact me through the crudproducts website, I will upgrade you for free.
    With the previous Raceguard, sales were so poor we were losing market share, and nearly had to lay off our only packer. Now we have a more stylish design, we have 2 packers working full-time to keep up with demand. You are right, the previous design was tighter, but this new one is half the weight, works great (now!) and looks a lot better.

    And it’s made in Pickering, North York Moors!

    Thanx for all your support over the years. Say ‘Hi’ if you see me in Dalby.

    Mr CRUD

    LoveTubs
    Free Member

    MisterCrud,

    I have to say that your original rear (two bolt) guard was great but I fudged it DIYing.

    I wanted to mount it just below the seatclamp, allowing seatpost adjustment that obviously goes out the window if you bolt straight to the seatpost.

    Can you confirm that all rear ‘one bolt’ raceguards in stock now will be the revised version. And yes, I would agree that the aesthetic of the new raceguard is about as pretty as it’s gonna get…unless your going to use carbon for the next gen? Can you make one for me 😛

    EDIT: What about offering anodised (colour choice) bolts for the single bolt raceguard. They’ll all take the p*ss but, just like all who’ve matched their hubs, skewers, brake hose bolts etc, they’ll sell. I’ll have a gold bolt please, to match my Hope bore caps 😉

    Innes
    Free Member

    I use one of these: SKS

    It is quick release so you don’t have to remove the post to take it off.

    druidh
    Free Member

    Oh – Mr Crud..

    Any chance of a wider Road Racer guard – for CX width tyres on bikes with no mounts? You could call it the Cross Racer and I’ll not charge you for that idea.

    Jamie
    Free Member

    Any chance of a wider Road Racer guard – for CX width tyres on bikes with no mounts? You could call it the Cross Racer and I’ll not charge you for that idea.

    *runs off to patent office giggling*

    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    Mr Crud – like lovetubs above I fitted it to the seat tube just below the clamp so it runs close to teh tyre but it doesn’t move with the eat as you adjust it.

    I had to modify the clamp to do this but it would be simple to make a clamp where this was easy to do.

    It won’t work on all frames but it would on many

    igtretd
    Free Member

    I’ve used the same as Innes for nearly four years and the quick release and adjustability are as good as ever…stops most of the carp too…

    Northwind
    Full Member

    5AM – Member

    “I’d be interested to know how effective those “Bender Fenders” are, please post feedback once you’ve tried it out. “

    Had one on the big bike for a fair while, they’re surprisingly effective. No replacement for a proper crown mounted guard of course but pretty much exactly as good as those horrible RRP guards people fit, and you barely notice it on the bike. I did just mangle it in a crash and I’m thinking of just making my own but with a few tweaks for my own setup, but they’re worth getting if you want a bit of mudguarding but don’t want the fuglitude of a shockboard or similiar.

    naokfreek
    Free Member

    I use one of these: SKS

    Also have one on my hack bike, not seen any mud yet but does a good job in the rain, QR is dead simple and very good.

    kaiser
    Free Member

    2nd the bender fender …pretty good protection and very inconspicuous .
    didn’t like the RRP jobbie …scraped the tyre on full compression.

    5AM
    Free Member

    Thanks for the feedback on the fender bender guys, think I might just try one out 😉

    lipseal
    Free Member

    Fender benders don’t like manitou’s could get mine to fit properly.

    Waderider
    Free Member

    Earlier in the thread I complained about my rattly mud guard, and somewhere up there Pete Tomkins (aka Mr Crud) replied. I contacted him yesterday with my details and today in the post I got a new mounting bracket, and the rattle is eliminated.

    I’m very happy, with that sort of customer service I think I’ll stick with Crud Products. 🙂

    HermanShake
    Free Member

    +1 Bender fender, they’ve improved it too! Keeps my stanchions and shock clean-ish, the rest I just wipe off as you would anyway.

    Depends on whether it’s mud or water you need shielding from?

    I used to love the mudguard, but the MTFU set in when my Rear guard snapped off-the bouncer compressed on landing and divorced the mudguard forthwith.

    heechee
    Free Member

    midlifecrashes – Member

    If you have V rake bosses, Decathlon make these, and they are great. Clamp on the matching front one isn’t great though.

    Many thanks for this. This is my fourth attempt at finding a rear guard that works.

    Tried the crudcatcher and it strips before it tightens.

    Tried the revolution, which attaches to the seat post with a fabric ‘belt’- rubbish.

    Tried the Topeak 2, again strips on height adjuster and the plastic on the quick release is like putty.

    Fitted the decathlon number and it looks as though it will actually do the job! I didn’t realise it was quick release into the bargain. A great buy, thanks for the tip.

    coastkid
    Free Member

    ive been pleased with the Decathlon gaurd so far…
    allows seat hieght to be dropped if needed and enough protection for a rear facing camera to stay clean… fits clown wheels too!

    jonb
    Free Member

    I use a cycra guard, best I’ve had by a mile. QR works and stays tight and the guard itself is tough. If you have an inbred you can mount it below the seatclap (well I can on an 18″). This means you have flexibility to adjust your post while keeping the guard close to the wheel for best performance (and looks).

    Next time i’m in a decathlon I’m going to pick up a couple of the v brake mount ones. I recon with a few p clips you could attach that to the seatstays on a hardtail or a full suss.

    The reason guards look quite so gopping on fullsusses (and they don’t work that well) is that you need to allow for travel and a bit of post dropping so the guard ends up nearl a foot above the wheel.

    I our club very few people who use guards use them without any modification. Most designs can be improved for your bike. My latest one is running a front fender backward so it is under the downtube. Doesn’t hit the tube as I trimmed it and works 100x better than an innertube between the drown and bridge. Coppied the cheap plastic triangle one as I had a broken topeak guard in the garage.

    dufresneorama
    Free Member

    I was fed up of a wet bum so fitted a crud rear guard before last Saturdays ride. It didn’t move or flop about and my rear end was comfy and dry all day.
    It doesn’t look great as it sits too high when seatpost is at normal riding hight, but looks ok when I drop the seatpost, so thanks for the tip jonb, I will try mounting it below the seat clamp on my inbred before tomorrows ride.

    I’ve got sks bluemels mounted on my commuter/tourer and after a bit of fiddling they are perfect, but not for off road.

    bigsurfer
    Free Member

    I have just bought one of these http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=32474 as I wanted the arm with the 2 pivot points to get it nice and close to the rear tyre. I have it attached to the top of the seat tube rather than the seat post so I can still adjust the seat post. Works really well, has kept me very dry.

    This is on a hardtail so don’t suffer any suspension problems.

    HoratioHufnagel
    Free Member

    I think you can mail order from decathlon now? the website is pretty awful though.

Viewing 36 posts - 41 through 76 (of 76 total)

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