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  • Tubless leak around valve – newbie help needed.
  • weeksy
    Full Member

    Hope XC rims and tubeless but I’m sure that other folk have got them set up. I appreciate to that it can take a few days and some rides to slosh the sealant about and get them properly sealed and air tight. I think that I just need to take the time to get it right, but I’m impatient to get out and ride.

    The WTB valves don’t have O-rings and I haven’t been able to find any to buy but I might try cutting something out of an old inner tube; greasing the valve seems to be recommended too.

    NEver read all of your thread…

    Interestingly though, i’m running Pro4’s with HOPE XC rims, although they’re the wider ones.

    What i did was a single layer of electrical tape over the valve/spoke holes first…. it pulls really nicely and tightly, goes on really easy and because it’s thin and bendy you can see you’ve covered the holes really well. Run a finger/thumb over it and make sure it’s all good.

    Then a layer of tubeless tape on top of it.

    I then use some puncture glue around the valve rubber just in case… let it half dry, press it on/down as you screw the ring on… then leave a few hours… I tried the cut out piece of tube and it’s a red herring, IMO you’re not actually losing it from the valve itself, but if you are, a bit of puncture glue will fix that bit anyway.

    My Hopes have been sweet using this process. First time, really easy…

    Don’t forget, if it’s losing a few PSI overnight that doesn’t matter and won’t stop you riding it… it’s not like it’s going to lose 40psi in an hours ride…

    submarined
    Free Member

    Any air escaping will tend to find its way to the valve hole, even if that’s not where the leak is. Have you put any fluid in yet?

    This!

    I’d advise Gorilla the first time round. Take the old tape off, clean, degrease with IPA, then tightly put one wrap of the 25mm gorilla tape round, smoothing out the bubbles as you go, and pulling it tight.
    I find Gorilla tape easiest to put on. However, the big downer is that it always seems to lift the edges whenever I take a tyre off, so I always end up replacing it. No issue with residue as IPA takes that off pretty quick.

    I’ve had mixed results with Tesa. it’s a bugger to get on well – My ARC30s have a very smooth finish, so I had to rub the rim bed down with 240 grit and then thoroughly clean with IPA to get them to stick. Left the tape on the radiator for half an hour beforehand, then pulled it on so tight that I thought my thumbs were going to break. It seems to have held up OK, and the one time that I took the tyre off that rim it didn’t take the tape with it.

    I wouldn’t use electrical tape – too thin, too stretchy, needs multiple wraps, too much potential for bubbles – the above methods both work fine with only one wrap.

    Do not whale on the valve locknut – you really shouldn’t need to. Sealants etc are all very well but a) you’re masking the symptoms, not the cause, and b) if you get an issue on the trail and have to put a tube in, you’ve got to get the valve out again. There are a ew ways to do this gripping between 2 tyre levers, for instance) but it’s still a pain in the bum.

    So, TL:DR, my experience:
    Monkey tape: Easiest by far, single use
    Tesa: PITA to apply, but lasts longer.

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