• This topic has 45 replies, 31 voices, and was last updated 9 years ago by alpin.
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  • tubelessness…. is this normal?
  • alpin
    Free Member

    got myself some Mavic Crossmax Charge tyres to go on my Deemax rims the other week.

    fitted them (without a lever… hard work on my thumbs) and inflated with a compressor. made a nice loud bang-bang-bang when popping onto the rims. filled with each tyre with 30ml of gunk and rolled around for 10 mins before inflating fully to 60psi.

    left them like that for an hour, checked on them and they were deflated. put them on the bike, inflated to ~50psi and rode around the block.

    that was all on Saturday.

    went riding yesterday and needed to put more air in before setting off.

    have checked again this morning and they need air in them again.

    is this normal? am i going to have to re-inflate before each ride?

    seems like more of faff than the occasioanl puncture.

    butlerjamesp
    Free Member

    I always chuck in a load of the gunk stuff, better to put more in than not enough, could be it’s already used up, or there is a leak around the valve which happens more often than not.

    martinhutch
    Full Member

    Depends on the tyre, but, yes, I normally need to stick a few psi in them before a ride. You might find that after a few rides it will settle down once they’re fully sealed.

    mrbelowski
    Free Member

    That’s not right.

    Did you do the Spaff Dance / Stan’s shuffle with the wheel to get all the spooge chucked around the inside of the tyre?

    They might settle, but it does sound like there’s a leak somewhere

    M1llh0use
    Free Member

    first run of tyres generally needs more gumph to seal em plus a decent ride.

    whip one bead off and see how much sealant is sloshing about, i’d guess none and it’ll need more.

    verses
    Full Member

    As well as doing the “Spaff dance” I tend to find leaving them laid on each side for a while helps the seal better too.

    And as others have said, after the 1st ride everything seems to bed in a bit better too.

    ahwiles
    Free Member

    30ml’s?

    you need a lot more than that.

    try 100 – if you want to seal the initial set-up, and leave enough to slosh around to deal with punctures.

    chrisdw
    Free Member

    30ml really isn’t very much especially for a new tyre. I just squeeze loads in so there is a reasonable puddle. New tyres use up quite a lot just on the initial coating.

    pk13
    Full Member

    Did you use stans or slime. I did four wheels 2 with stans and 2 with slime. Same method on all. The slime needs more than the recommended dose as they lost air overnight. Stans worked first time .

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Depends on the tyre ime. I use non-tubeless tyres, and the carcass is not airtight so some of the thinner tyres I’ve had have taken a few rides to full seal up. However others have been airtight straight away. Most have been very leaky before the first full ride though.

    30ml doesn’t sound much, I use about 60ml or so, and if the sidewalls are porous I use more because a fair bit gets absorbed into the little holes in the tyre.

    Also, they all seem to deflate over a period of about a year but that is no different to tubes.

    However, tubeless specific tyres should have more rubber on and should seal straight away I’d have thought.

    Stevet1
    Free Member

    Lay a wheel on its side on a bucket for support and brush a 50/50 solution of washing up liquid over the sidewalls to show up any large leaks. Do the shuffle dance to shake the sealant over the worst leaks (you should hear it sloshing about – if not add more sealant) and leave on its side for half an hour or so to hopefully seal up the remainder. Swap sides and repeat. Keep inflating to whatever the maximum tyre pressure is between cycles as well to force the sealant through the holes.

    alpin
    Free Member

    theoretically i shouldn’t have to use any spunk, seeing as both the tyre and the rim are UST, should i?

    using FRM spunk as the LBS at the time didn’t have any Stans.

    so… more spunk. more air. and perhaps new valves as they looked a little gunged up.

    cheers

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Yeah I’d have thought fully UST would not require sealant, but I’d use some anyway – why not – free puncture protection.

    Then again I wouldn’t use UST as it’s really heavy.

    Oh and Stans is reportedly far better than most other stuff – it contains tiny fibres to help block holes, and others do not.

    However, I’d give it a few more rides anyway just to see.

    daver27
    Free Member

    the crossmax charge tyres only have a UST compliant bead, not a full UST sealed carcass.

    you need sealant and you need a lot more as mentioned, 100mls should do it.

    teamslug
    Free Member

    Some tyres take ages to seal. Continental supersonics were the worst but eventually every tyres Ive used tubeless has sealed…check the valves and leaks around the valve with some soapy water

    RoterStern
    Free Member

    UST doesn’t require sealant to keep the tyres inflated. To find where the leak is submerge the tyre and rim under water. Gives you an idea where the air is coming out of.

    MSP
    Full Member

    They are UST ready rather than UST, bit of deliberate marketing confusion.

    alpin
    Free Member

    ^^ i’m confused. 🙂

    devs
    Free Member

    Put about 50mls more gunk in. Be happy.

    D0NK
    Full Member

    theoretically i shouldn’t have to use any spunk, seeing as both the tyre and the rim are UST, should i?

    You shouldn’t no, I would tho for the thorn puncture proofing – plus UST does tend to leak a little IME.

    Mind you tubeless can be a bit weird, I set my commuter tyres up, ran fine for ages then got a slow leak, I got in from a wet commute and could hear hissing, the next morning the tyre was pretty soft, so I topped up the air. This went on for a few days having to top up every morning and then after about 3 days it just fixed itself, still get tiny bit of airloss over the weekend but nowt much – I tend to connect the track pump and check tyre pressure before every ride anyway tho, tubes or tubeless.

    moshimonster
    Free Member

    I’ve run UST tyres and rims without gunk for years and I find they do tend to leak a bit (enough to need pumping up on a weekly basis), some more than others. If I run them at say 30 psi, I usually find on average they may lose 10 psi sitting for a week. Haven’t noticed any difference during a ride.

    brassneck
    Full Member

    theoretically i shouldn’t have to use any spunk, seeing as both the tyre and the rim are UST, should i?

    If they are UST, in theory no but you should for thorn/cut protection. 60 – 100 ml per tyre, size depending.

    If they are UST Ready you’ll probably have to double that and keep pumping them up for a few weks – they will settle eventually.

    If they are normal tyres you are chancing it on, you’ll need even more sealant and a bit of prayer that the bead locks right. Might even need a sealant top up after a few weeks.

    nemesis
    Free Member

    FWIW, I have some wheels which seem to barely leak pressure and others that need a quick pump before each ride. Can’t say it bothers me so I’ve never put any real effort into trying to sort it on the ones that do leak a bit.

    teasel
    Free Member

    Put about 50mls more gunk in. Be happy.

    I seem to remember using similar chat up lines in my drunken youth…

    PJM1974
    Free Member

    Does take a while before all the leaks seal…remember that the valve-hole itself may leak until the sealant plugs any gaps.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    UST ready means they have fat beads with extra rubber that should seal better on UST rims, but you still need spunk. UST proper tyres have a really thick inner tube’s worth of rubber applied to the inside of the tyre, like car tyres, so in theory you don’t need spunk.

    Given that you should be using spunk anyway, there’s not much point in full UST tyres imo.

    enfht
    Free Member

    First use a floor pump and no gunk, just soapy water. If the tyre doesn’t stay inflated for 10 mins then you need more tape.

    Compressors just confuse the step above and risks leaving you with flat tyres in the middle of nowhere.

    Deveron53
    Free Member

    I use the red cups that you used to get with Stan’s. 2 cups for any tyre up to about 2.1 width, extra cup for anything over 2.1. Extra half cup for rear tyre.

    brassneck
    Full Member

    Given that you should be using spunk anyway, there’s not much point in full UST tyres imo.

    I see your point, but the tougher carcass often means a bit more puncture protection and they tend to go on and up easier. Certainly in Flint(Hamp)shire they seem worth the weight penalty.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Yeah, perhaps – I never have an issue with sidewall tearing anyway though 🙂

    dickyhepburn
    Free Member

    Another vote for the Stan’s shuffle (with added wobble to really slosh it about) and 3 cups per tyre as more is always better

    moshimonster
    Free Member

    I see your point, but the tougher carcass often means a bit more puncture protection and they tend to go on and up easier. Certainly in Flint(Hamp)shire they seem worth the weight penalty.

    Plus you can still run them at lower pressures than tubes, which is one of the main benefits of going tubeless in the first place. I stopped using gunk as I found it a a bit of a hassle and rarely had punctures anyway with UST and when I did the Panaracer plug repair always worked.

    Having said that I’m going tubeless ready on my new bike, so will be using gunk again for the first time in years. I can see the slight benefit of lighter weight, but I’m fully expecting it to be more hassle overall.

    philfive
    Free Member

    I’ve just changed my tyres for winter and you really need at least 2x30ml of stans for initial sealing. It should really take anymore than 20 minutes a tyre.

    jairaj
    Full Member

    The blurb on the Mavic website says

    specific tyre for Enduro racing

    Are you sure you are doing proper Enduro riding? If not I don’t think the tyres will work correctly.

    The website also goes on to say:

    -Tubeless Ready: lighter construction, perfectly air tight with the use of sealant

    Reading the thread, it doesn’t sound like you are using sealant? That’s probably the real reason the tyres won’t stay inflated.

    Mavic should have probably called them “tubeless ready” to make it easier to differentiate that they are not proper UST tyres.

    alpin
    Free Member

    Reading the thread, it doesn’t sound like you are using sealant? That’s probably the real reason the tyres won’t stay inflated.

    alpin – Member

    got myself some Mavic Crossmax Charge tyres to go on my Deemax rims the other week.

    fitted them (without a lever… hard work on my thumbs) and inflated with a compressor. made a nice loud bang-bang-bang when popping onto the rims. filled with each tyre with 30ml of gunk and rolled around for 10 mins before inflating fully to 60psi.

    doesn’t it?

    Are you sure you are doing proper Enduro riding?

    my local playground.

    [/url]DSCN2529 by sod_the_taxman, on Flickr[/img]

    😉

    molgrips
    Free Member

    That’s not enduro, you are wearing solid black.

    grilla
    Free Member

    50 psi ? I run mine at exactly half that, I think you are over inflating.

    alpin
    Free Member

    molgrips – Member

    That’s not enduro, you are wearing solid black.
    😆

    is this any better?

    [/url]DSCN2812 by sod_the_taxman, on Flickr[/img]

    50psi to help them inflate and set the tyre. normally run at 25-30psi.

    cruzcampo
    Free Member

    two scoops of 50ml as per the Stans bottle in my tyres, works a charm.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Can’t quite see if you are gurning enough in that pic.

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