Are they any good? They aren’t a brand I’ve heard of. Is it one of the many On-One only brands or an actual pukka well known one? It’s for a commuter so it needs to be tough and reliable! 🙂

http://www.on-one.co.uk/c/q/components/wheels/wheel-spares/rims

Smashing. I built up a set of wheel with them almost exactly 2 years ago for commuting. Probably about 9000 miles old now, still straight and true* and free of corrosion. I’d have another pair.

*obviously more to do with my ninja wheeelbuilding skills than the rims themselves. 😀

Have some CL25 29ers and they are great. Go tubeless as easy as Stans and have stayed true and had a bit of hammer. The superstar hubs they run on are not so good.

FIL has a set built on some hope hubs by 18 Bikes, very nice they are too.

Nice one, thanks peeps! 🙂

I wasn’t too impressed- well finished, did tubeless well, but not that light and really pretty soft (not weak, just denty). I had CL25s and they look pretty sorry compared to a Stans Crest, which were lighter and wider and a bit tougher (I can’t speak for strength on either, didn’t heavily damage either,could be the Pacenti is one of those rims that dents easily but survives bigger hits well)

But these are very cheap so, maybe.

I run a pair of TL28 rims on my full sus (26″, 120mm travel front and back, so not smashing it through rock gardens or hucking off big drops). They’ve been fantastic over the past two years for general red run style trail riding and XC. Tubeless setup was very easy.

The ones on Planet X / On One are the older style, hence the price. The welding pins have a habit of coming loose inside the rim and making a bit of a noise. Totally harmless to the wheel but a bit annoying. I remember there was a thread on the MTBR where Kirk Pacenti detailed an easy fix if / when it happens.

I think my build, on Superstar Switch hubs with brass nipples and double butted Sapim spokes, comes in at around 1850g so as Northwind says, not the lightest. They did cost me £120 posted for the pair though so cannot complain.

I had some TL28 26″ superstar wheels on my Pitch FSR last year. Did some enduro races, local riding and some lakes stuff over the summer and autumn. Rear had a few dents and dings as a result.
In November I took the Rock Razor off the back wheel to fit a more suitable winter tyre only to find the rim had split between 4 spoke holes on the bed of the rim.

My CL25s also split at the rear along the bed area, after 8-9,000 road and ‘gravel’ miles. Pacentis can be really light rims for the size but that may mean a bit less durable. Less faff than Stans for using tubed tyres though and they sealed with most tubless tyres really easily.

I had some TL28 26″ superstar wheels on my Pitch FSR last year. Did some enduro races, local riding and some lakes stuff over the summer and autumn. Rear had a few dents and dings as a result.
In November I took the Rock Razor off the back wheel to fit a more suitable winter tyre only to find the rim had split between 4 spoke holes on the bed of the rim.

That’s crap. I’ll make sure I give mine a good looking over next time I swap tyres.

I had a pair a couple of years ago and they have been great. The rear id split along the spoke holes but was replaced by the importer. I do suspect the build tension to be honest. Replacement, rebuilt more carefully has been fine.
CL25’s. Just seen the OO add. Might buy some more.
Tubeless very easily, just a strip of Gorilla tape, with Schwalbe or WTB tyres

That’s crap. I’ll make sure I give mine a good looking over next time I swap tyres.

I thought that too. It did explain the mystery creak I’d been hearing though!

mattsccm – Member

I do suspect the build tension to be honest.

I think Pacenti’s limit is 125kgf, which is pretty standard… But they wouldn’t be the first eyeletted rims where the eyelets create a stress riser, it’s supposed to make a stronger rim but it doesn’t always play out that way (every mavic rim I’ve ever cracked, cracked at an eyelet)

My CL25s split along th rime, close to the corner ‘edge’ between sidewall and central area. They weren’t built particularly tight, a guy I know did them and knew they were for road and very light off-road use, winter miles and light touring basically.
I have some TL28s to build up at some point so not put off, just cautious. I rode the split rim for a further 1500 miles or so, no issues yet..

My CL25s also split at the rear along the bed area, after 8-9,000 road and ‘gravel’ miles.

This seems to also be the same story for the two rims I’ve tried so far on my commuter- Mavic 719 and Stan’s ZTR Olympic.

Thanks for all the info- I’ll give the Pacentis a try. I think they are definitely worth it for the price! 🙂

In November I took the Rock Razor off the back wheel to fit a more suitable winter tyre only to find the rim had split between 4 spoke holes on the bed of the rim.

Well this sounds a bit worrying!

The welding pins have a habit of coming loose inside the rim and making a bit of a noise. Totally harmless to the wheel but a bit annoying. I remember there was a thread on the MTBR where Kirk Pacenti detailed an easy fix if / when it happens.

Tell me more about this…… was thinking of putting some self expanding foam in, every thing else I’ve tried has failed