Mate of mine has bought a new Inbred 29er swap dropout 16 inch frame and wants to fit his BB7’s with 160mm rotors but unfortunately the BB7 caliper actuating arm fouls the seat stay. OnOne say there is no way round this but after a bit of reading on the internet it seems that if he fits a 180/185mm caliper adaptor and runs a larger rotor then the arm may clear the seat stay because the caliper is further into the chainstay/seatstay triangle. This info I found was talking about the slot dropout version so I was wondering if its the same for the swap dropout version.
Can anyone confirm if this is true?

Bump

Don’t on one make a nds dropout that puts the calliper above the stay.

I’m surei saw one on their site .

Edit …

This one:

Note: “On-One Swapout Replaceable Dropout / B2 / Geared / Disc Side Outer” is specially designed for frames where brake caliper clearance is an issue by mounting the caliper on the outside of the rear triangle as in conventional systems. Contact our technical team if you are unsure.

Cheers for finding that but he wants to fit a rack with child seat so having it outside the triangle is not ideal.

Is this with geared dropouts or slot?
My 29 slot dropout (old scandal) has that problem if the wheel is pulled to max chain length, luckily I never need it to be that far back in the dropouts.
However, it didn’t have the problem when I ran it with a 180 rear.

As above, if you can move the dropouts and wheel forward a bit without fouling the front derailleur you might get a bit more room.

Not tried it on that frame, but I managed it on mrs j’s 14″ and 16″ slotty 26″ inbreds which also didn’t fit bb7’s at first. It might be worth having a jiggle with the caliper to see if it would work on yours.

As I recall I wound the (right hand side) fixed pad in (ie away from the rotor) and the (left hand side) moving pad out, then fixed the cable so that the arm was already maybe 1/4 into its travel at ‘rest’ (it is possible to do this by winding out the cable adjuster a long way on the lever but leaves you little or no adjustment for cable stretch and left hand pad wear once it’s set up) -this gave a couple of mm clearance from the seatstay and I put a couple of layers of heli-tape on the seatstay at the point where the arm would hit it if the cable got too slack or slipped on the clamp. The pads were about 1/4 worn and I wonder if this gave me a bit more adjustment that i could have had with new ones, so this solution may end up with some swapping of part-worn pads from front to back from time to time -we never wore the pads down before we sold the brakes so i never got to try it with new ones. It was a bit of a faff setting up but in the end the bite point and feel of the brake at the brake lever was the same as the ‘normally’ set up front one.

Sorry for the rambly post, hope it’s of some use. 😀

Cheers for all the info.

It will be running an Alfine but the swop dropouts are not moveable. The caliper is as far forward as it will go with the 160mm adaptor. I’m hoping that with a 180mm it will clear the frame.

the swop dropouts are not moveable

I though the whole point was that you could swap from vertical dropouts to a set of SS slotty ones ?
(I have a non-swappy slot dropout scandal 26er and that fits a 180mm BB7. I think the 160 fouled so I reckon you have a decent chance on going to 180)

When I say moveable, I mean you cant move them back and forth but you can unbolt and change for a different type.

I thought on-one sold them with both types, so your mate could just fit the slidey ones, where you can move the “drop-out” (or at least, the point of attachment of wheel AND brake) ?