Hi all,

Got a Giant STP – simple vertical dropout hardtail, I want to convert to singlespeed on the cheap.
Initial plan was 9speed chainring and chain, single speed conversion kit for the freehub, and a simple tensioner attached to the rear mech hanger.

Figured it will look tidier if I don’t use a tensioner, so use a half link, or a half link chain. Will I be able to get good tension that way? Bike will just be used for skateparks etc, so not many miles, but will be cranked pretty hard.

How does using a singlespeed chain with one half link compare to a full half link chain? I’m assuming using a 9speed chainring will be fine?

Ta,
Duane.

you may get reasonable tension with a half link but it’ll go off as soon as there’s any wear.

A half link in a normal chain (1/8th or 3/32) is better than a half link chain (these are pretty shit, got one on the bmx and I wouldnt buy another)

A half link won’t mean you automatically get perfect chain tension. If you do, your chain will soon lose tension. You can then remove the half link and you may get good tension again, or it may be over tight.

Using a half link (or possibly not) means your chain is the shortest it can be, which means your rear tensioner (those cheapo roller affairs from Onone/Superstar are best) can tension the chain upwards which means no chance of chainslip.

HTH

This worked for me and was fine so it must be okay …..

This may be slightly OT but I used an old biopace front ring on a commuter bike a few years ago. I set the ring so it took up tension as the pedal stroke was going down.

2007ish running 48×16

I think this is one of the bnefits of the onekey chain ring.

Clicky

I ran the same sprockets and chain for a couple of years with no noticeable issue re wear etc.

Using one of the above (geared to the ratio you need 😉 ), in theory at least, could negate the need for a tesnioner.

🙂 Careful dropping in with a 48 tooth chainring

W onky ring would probably work though. I’m using a profile chainring ATM which is off centre, there’s quite a difference in tension between the loose and tight spots.

I’d just try a chain and a half link first and see how you get on. A 1×9 front ring is fine, providing you’ve got enough tension in the chain.

davidtaylforth – Member

Careful dropping in with a 48 tooth chainring

I don’t need to be as I’m

Obviously gear down accordingly for the use in parks 😳

😀 reminds me of goosebumps

Cheers all.

So looks like not using a tensioner will be more faff than it’s worth.

I’ll get one of these;
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=269

Bad idea to use a standard 9speed chain for singlespeed duties?

Ta,
Duane.

The rollers can be a little noisy but seem to work fine.

My PC991 chains have been fine on my SS/IGH set ups.

Cheers all.

So looks like not using a tensioner will be more faff than it’s worth.

I’ll get one of these;
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=269

Bad idea to use a standard 9speed chain for singlespeed duties?

Ta,
Duane.

A 9 speed chain is fine, it’s too narrow for a half link though if you need to use one.

I’d try a half link though, SS worked fine on my Dialled Alpine with a half link in the chain.

I’m using a front chainring originally from a 3×9 set up, with an 8 speed chain, you can’t get a half link that’s narrow enough for a 8/9/10 (3/32″) speed chain as far as I’m aware. You can mess about with ratios to get the tension, but that gets expensive unless you get the cheap, thin sprockets that eat through the freehub body………

I ended up going 32:17 with a dmr tensioner pushing down, just can’t get the right length with 16T or 17T rear for it to get enough tension pushing up, all depends on sprocket/chainring sizes and chainstay length though, trial and error, though not the cheapest, is the best way.

3/32 halflink http://www.winstanleysbmx.com/product/22601/Gusset_Slink_HalfLink_Chain_Links_CHGUSHL3?gclid=COaPl5TuoLwCFYWWtAodo0oA7g

Im sure 9 speed chains are narrower than this though?

I’ll get one of these;
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=269

I used to run one of those on an old Gary Fisher frame and it was fine, however I tried using it on a Genesis and it wouldn’t fit.

The Fisher had “clean” drop outs so it fit fine, however the Genesis has a kind of cowl/shroud around the drop out which blocked it.

I’m using the sprung-type instead now as that only mounts on the mech-hanger so doesn’t clash with the cowl around the drop-out;
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=268

Images 3 and 4 on this page show what I mean about a cowl;
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=246958

The QR fits in it neatly, but the fixed tensioner doesn’t.

Obviously it may or may not be a problem with your frame, but worth checking.

Cheers all.

Always thought the sprung ones would lead to more chain slippage?
This is the STP dropout area, looks like there shouldn’t be any issue with the Superstar unsprung tensioner?

Looks like it should be fine.