hello all…..im using the 32 tooth slx chainring up front and a sram singlespeed specific chain 1sp i think….and gusset conversion at the rear… the chain line is great but the problem is the chain is coming off especially under load up hill!, would a half link chain be better? suggestions please

Have you tensioned it?

Geared chainrings have some profiles to aid shifting which can affect the stability with ss, I found it worse with ss chains which are wider than the chainring was designed for. That said if the chain and ring are new I wouldn't expect too much issue – how old is the chainring?

If you do need a new c/ring, get a ss specific one which has taller unprofiled teeth, etc. Since switching to a s/steel on-one I've not had a single issu of that sort (cue slippage and nut / stem interface next time out)

Use a single-speed specific (unramped and full depth teeth) chainring and run the chain with decent tension.
I reckon that if you can spin the cranks backwards for a couple of turns then the chain isn't too tight.
How are you tensioning the chain ?

thanks both……the chainring is not brand new but still in good shape….i have looked on velo site and have seen the ss specific rings…..the profile seems to make sense…….what about these half link chains? any good?

^As Jon said, switch to an unramped chainring.

I can recommend Surly Stainless, been on mine for around 3 years now and still showing very little sign of wear.

It's the ramped chainring as the others said.

im tensioning with a gusset batchelor….. im trying this pushing down to get the tension…… perhaps i can try running the chain over the wheel?

im tensioning with a gusset batchelor….. im trying this pushing down to get the tension…… perhaps i can try running the chain over the wheel?

If it's coming off at the chainring it won't make any difference.

what about these half link chains? any good?

No, they are rubbish for mtb use.

thanks all for all the input and new direction….

If you can, get the tensioner pushing up for more chain wrap on the rear sprocket.
If the need to adjust the chain length less than a whole link will enable you to do (ie 1") then get a separate half-link and use that rather than getting one of those useless half-link chains.

John

As others have said, get a decent chainring. Goldtecs from BETD are cheap (ish), work for me and look nice. And obviously…lots of people like the Surlys

(At some point, would also be worth investing in a quality SS chain made by eg KMC. NB I didn't say "expensive", I said "quality")

But..in addition to that, I had a lot of problems with the Gusset Bachelor chain tensioner. The bit that the chain runs across is quite broad and I found that the chain either got pushed to one side or the other – enough to push the chainline out so that the chain was feeding badly onto teeth. Over or under-tensioning would not eliminate this. I then swapped the Bachelor out for one of the standard jockey wheel type tensioners and problem vanished immediately. The othe big diff with running a jockey wheel type tensioner as opposed to a rubber roller is that the jockey wheel ones are sooooo much smoother and quieter.

PS – Yes ..With the Bachelor – as you suggested …you can run chain under or over the roller depending on chain slack/frame geometry etc.

Use an unramped chainring without profiled teeth. With firm chain tension, it shouldn't get thrown off. I got a 32t Blackspire DH chainring and am using it with a Shimano 9sp chain and a 9sp 18t cog I salvaged from a cassette. It's working well so far.

I've been been using a DMR unramped ring from CRC for a couple of years. Cheap as chips 🙂