Bit of a long shot but does anyone have the bushing removal and installation tools to do a Reba (29er if that makes any difference). I have two sets of forks that need the bushings replaced and am struggling to get hold of the tool. I'm looking to rent/buy the tools or a bike shop near Leeds where I can take the forks in to have the bushings changed in store.

Don't really want to send off to TFTuned or similar as I would have to get a full service on each set of forks, which is not cheap. Both sets have worn out in ~ 6 months of riding and I don't want to be sending the forks off for a few hundred quids worth of servicing twice a year when it is just the bushings that need replacing.

I'm happy to replace just bushes if uppers and lowers are stripped, mail in profile for details.

The thing is, it's not just a case of buying a cheap tool and replacing the bushes. The tool is EXPENSIVE and you need to size the bush to the stanchions. If I were you I'd take LoCo up on the offer becasue you won't get it done any cheaper

The bushes probably aren't 'worn out' either, odds on they just need resizing.

I'm a great advocate of home fork servicing, but this really is best left to the proffessionals. 🙂

The thing is, it's not just a case of buying a cheap tool and replacing the bushes. The tool is EXPENSIVE and you need to size the bush to the stanchions. If I were you I'd take LoCo up on the offer becasue you won't get it done any cheaper

The bushes probably aren't 'worn out' either, odds on they just need resizing.

I'm a great advocate of home fork servicing, but this really is best left to the proffessionals.

I am aware that the tool is expensive, however if I am going to be replacing bushings every 6 months on two sets of forks it could pay for itself reasonably quickly.

What makes you think the bushes aren't worn out? Unlike a lot of posters on here I actually do quite a bit of riding and the movement in the fork has only recently become noticable. I'm not going to justify what I have done to determine this on here but I am quite confident that the bushings need replacing.

I would agree on the need to size front when replacing, but again when I have made enquiries elsewhere this would only be done as part of an in-depth service, which would prove costly unless the sizing made a big difference to the wear rate. Having had two bolt-through sets of 29er forks wear like this, and a non-qr 29er set not wear like this in a year's worth of riding previously I am beginning to think it could be related to the long 29er fork, big rotor (180 and 203) and bolt-through combo in some way. No 'track record' as such that I can find online to back this up though.

I should have added I have been offered a very good deal by LoCo to replace the bushings which I will be taking him up on shortly so if anyone else is reading this thread and needs the same I would recommend contacting him.

I am aware that the tool is expensive, however if I am going to be replacing bushings every 6 months on two sets of forks it could pay for itself reasonably quickly.

What makes you think the bushes aren't worn out?

Because I know RS forks inside and out (I'm the one that's written the servicing and modification guides you see passed around on here) and I know the modern ones made in the last 5 years or so almost NEVER wear their bushes out.
Lots of RS forks also develop sloppy bushes fairly quickly, as yours have. I've had 2 sets do it. Then, when you get them bushes resized, they go on for several years afterwards without it happening again. Yes, you might be the exception, but to be honest I doubt it.
If you ride a lot, invest in some decent 15 & 5wt suspension oils from a motorbike shop, get the bushes sorted professionally (resized properly) and then do a basic lube service every 4-6 months. Stands to reason that regular fresh oil will help.

Seriously, just leave it to the Pros! 🙂

Because I know RS forks inside and out (I'm the one that's written the servicing and modification guides you see passed around on here) and I know the modern ones made in the last 5 years or so almost NEVER wear their bushes out.
Lots of RS forks also develop sloppy bushes fairly quickly, as yours have. I've had 2 sets do it. Then, when you get them bushes resized, they go on for several years afterwards without it happening again. Yes, you might be the exception, but to be honest I doubt it.
If you ride a lot, invest in some decent 15 & 5wt suspension oils from a motorbike shop, get the bushes sorted professionally (resized properly) and then do a basic lube service every 4-6 months. Stands to reason that regular fresh oil will help.

Seriously, just leave it to the Pros!

So just to clarify because it hasn't happened to you, and you're a self-proclaimed expert, that it can't be true? Sounds about standard for the thinking of some people on here! Also you know more than me because you simply presume you do? I won't go on (because I don't need to) but that is a little presumptious.

Genuinely what is the difference between developing "sloppy bushings" after a period of time (in my case I would say ~ 200 – 250 hrs use on each fork) and wear? I'm not sure what you mean but the resolution is the same, fit new and correctly sized bushings? I sincerely hope that when LoCo fits and sizes new ones that you are right and they continue on for much longer without needing further intervention. But as I keep finding with MTB stuff nothing seems to last if you actually use it regularly offroad. Oh and the lowers are serviced roughly once a month, haven't changed the damper oil or any of the seals as of yet but that has never been a source of issue for me after 6 months before.

Isn't resizing bushings and fitting new bushings 2 different things?

Since I have developed movement in mine I would refer to sizing the bushings as choosing from a big bag of new ones and finding the best fit taking into account the manufacturing tolerances of the forks and bushes.

Anyone care to explain to me how to resize a worn bush?

Sorry about the hijack but can anyone tell me what I need to do with my Rebas as yesterday the wiper seal came away (at cannock in the mud) and the foam got quite dirty. I popped the wiper back down but the fork feels like its a bit gritty and has lost some air now. I also dont really want to send off for a full service and would like to do the maintenance myself if pos.

(I'm the one that's written the servicing and modification guides you see passed around on here)

Post them again PP so you can show everybody what you mean?

Donk, search for 'rockshox lower leg service'. Loads of guides online.

SST, I too am getting confused by the use of 'resizing bushings', which surely just means fitting new ones that fit well?! I suppose on a new set you could have some that were a little tight but IME that doesn't really happen as manufacturers seem to pursue out of the box smoothness as top priority.

Isn't resizing bushings and fitting new bushings 2 different things?

Yep 🙂

Anyone care to explain to me how to resize a worn bush?

I believe they use a certain specialist tool to set it. I'm not sure how it's done but I think it's tapped down into the leg until the sizing is right. But you gotta know how to get the size right….. 🙂

So just to clarify because it hasn't happened to you, and you're a self-proclaimed expert, that it can't be true?

You're clearly not reading what I wrote, becasue I said "Lots of RS forks also develop sloppy bushes fairly quickly, as yours have. I've had 2 sets do it"
Now, I'm trying to give you the best advice, based on a good amount of personal experience, but for some reason you're getting all hot under the collar about it. So go on, by all means go buy all the tools and DIY, and let us know how you get on. 🙂

(I'm the one that's written the servicing and modification guides you see passed around on here)

?

I believe they use a certain specialist tool to set it. I'm not sure how it's done but I think it's just tapped down into the leg until the sizing is right

So the bush sits into a tapered seat and pushing it down tightens up any play then?

Foxy – These are the 2 most popular ones. I do get asked for them fairly regularly 🙂

https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B1AoGIWBz4H1YWNhYWRkODYtNzRiNi00YTA1LTlmMjctNmQzOWQwMDdiZGFl&hl=en

https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B1AoGIWBz4H1M2E5ZTc0MTItNjM4NS00YjBiLWEwZDgtMjEyYTQ5NWZlMjc5&hl=en

If you're observant, you'll see that's 2 different sets of Rebas I've had apart there, for starters. 🙂

So the bush sits into a tapered seat and pushing it down tightens up any play then?

I believe so, yes, although it's entirely possible I've got the wrong end of the stick. But I have spoken to TFTuned about this sort of thing at some length. Lyriks are a bit different, I do know that much! 🙂

(Have a look back in my posting history to see me digging for info on Lyriks….)

PP, your advice seemed to be an opportunity to massage the ego of 'the world's best mechanic', which you call yourself in your profile. I should have known better really than to ask a question on here and not expect a know-it-all response. I note that is your standard type of response from reading threads in the past though. If that was not your intention then perhaps I could suggest you word your posts differently.

Are RS lower legs not a uniform internal diameter then? If true and moving the bushing position altered fit I'm not sure it would be a good idea anyway as I presume the 'powerbulges' are there for a reason.

The reason i asked was that my Pikes went off to be serviced a few years back, I expected new bushings to be fitted but was told it hadn't needed them, they had just been resized – never really knew what it meant before so thanks for the info.

As an aside to this I have just serviced them myself (seals and oil change) and was expecting something far more complex inside given the marketing speil and high cost of modern forks. This expectation of a more complex system is what has put me off doing my own servicing in the past.

I was shocked to find that the internals were little different to those of my old RST Mozo Pros (remember them you oldies?).

FYI, from the TFTuned website

Once cleaned & dried the next step is to check the bushings for any play. If we find any we will try to refit/resize the bushings to maximize the performance of the chassis but if this fails we will contact you to get authorisation to fit new bushings.

So, "refit/resize" is what they say. But it's not necessarily a case of just automatically sticking new bushes in, that's for certain.
————————————————————————

I should have known better really than to ask a question on here and not expect a know-it-all response.

Jeezzzzzus….. Calm down fella. You asked a question. I tried to give you the best advice, in good faith, and you copped a strop about it and started a slanging match whan you didn't hear what you wanted to hear!
Which is also standard STW practice I believe. 😉

Like I said, crack on and DIY, but don't moan when you waste money on tools you only ever use once or you get it wrong and end up with a really badly working fork.
If you get it right, brilliant! Post it up on here and do a guide for us. Pass the knowledge on! 🙂

I'm the greatest advocate of DIY servicing ANYTHING on a bike becasue I believe 99% of it is easy-peasy. I'll gladly help anyone out as best I can, or keep my mouth shut if I don't know what I'm on about.
But RS forks I know about (Make of that what you will….) and one of the VERY FEW jobs on a bike I won't attempt myself is RS bush sizing. The reason for that is becasue I know what happens when it's done wrong (Not done by me) and doing it right is best left to the experts.

The things I don't do myself:
BB and disc mount facing
Shock nitrogen damper servicing
RS bush resizing

Becasue they all need skill and/or very expensive tools. 🙂

PP, I posted yesteday that the forks are going to LoCo as he's offered a great price to do so.

I'll leave it now but I find it irritating when people presume you're an idiot on here. Like the time I dared to comment on the wear of brake pads in the Peak District……

For what it's worth, a Reba bush kit R8851000 is £35, and the tool R6353000 is £102…
I agree with PP, i would be amazed if they're shot already unless you've been making a real hash of your monthly servicing…
Good luck!

but I find it irritating when people presume you're an idiot on here.

Your stream on consciousness, confrontational and arrogant style is doing a fine job of convincing me you are.

Granted, PP is a bit 'look at me, I'm the RS expert', but its not hard to be an expert on RS forks and he's clearly trying to help you out.

You want advice and then moan when someone gives it too you? Pillock.

You want advice and then moan when someone gives it too you? Pillock.

Hmm – Treat like with like SO? Best not to lower yourself to calling people Pillocks? Anyway I think PP does come over all arogant (who ever arrogant is 😉 )which gets peoples backs up as seen above 🙂 I know people mean well and are trying to help but writing tips in an arrogant or condescending way often is not helpful no?

Were all amateurs on here unless we are employed to do the job therefore defined as a professional. I know quite a few 'professionals' in my job and that term is probably not justified 😉

If you're referring to my spelling, you've just 'faux parred' big time.

😉

So, they're off to LoCo, you still argue the toss, and I'm the one that's arrogant?

Okaaaaaayyyy.
🙄

Sorry PP but thats how you come across? Maybe try using a bit more humble comments?

Peter, ive had a quick look through the service instructions posted but am unsure if these will apply to cleaning the wiperseals and refiting them, If I am honest these forks are very new to me as I used the coil sprung forks for many years and never need to touch them (ah happy days) so I would like to get to grips with these buggers and not break the bank so do you have any instructions on basic maintenance for the maxle team versions??? I might try to convert the pop lock though for a manual lock out so cheers.

LOL @ the forum heavyweights battling it out!

I don't class myself in that group cynic-al 😉

I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks that PP comes over as arrogant and condesending at times. I should know better than to react like that I suppose.

My original post was to ask if anyone/any shops had the tool or knew where to get it, I wasn't asking advice on bushings or bushing wear. I got it anyway though, as clearly I wouldn't have a clue and I need telling that I'm wrong. I might be wrong but there are much better ways of communicating that. How about an opening question of "are you sure the bushings have worn?" as opposed to statements like "Because I know RS forks inside and out"…..

Subsequent to that question I contacted LoCo and he sorted me out with a great deal to sort/change the bushings only (which I also posted some time ago). Until then I hadn't found anywhere else that would do that only, and would have needed to pay roughly £120 each time to get a set replaced. Seeing as the full set of tools retails for ~ £200 (if you can find) I reasoned that after a few uses it would pay for itself. Yes ideally the bushings would need to be a good fit for the best performance but they're relatively cheap and I would have been able to replace them at home so it would have been no big problem to do so.

Peter, ive had a quick look through the service instructions posted but am unsure if these will apply to cleaning the wiperseals and refiting them, If I am honest these forks are very new to me as I used the coil sprung forks for many years and never need to touch them (ah happy days) so I would like to get to grips with these buggers and not break the bank so do you have any instructions on basic maintenance for the maxle team versions??? I might try to convert the pop lock though for a manual lock out so cheers.

In addition to PP's instructions there are also some great videos that Sram have posted on YouTube that might be of some use HERE

If all that has happened is the grey dust seal has lifted then likely all you would need to do is remove the lowers and foam rings in the seals and give everything a good clean. I would recommend you do that soon though as if there is a lot of crap in there now it will do a good job of wearing your stanchions quickly which is best avoided.

PP – in what way are the Lyriks different, pretty sure I've got some play in the bushes of mine?

I agree with PP, i would be amazed if they're shot already unless you've been making a real hash of your monthly servicing…

You're right I must have done something wrong. Of course there couldn't be the possibility of them actually having worn? The rear shock bushes on my Tallboy last rougly 6 weeks a time, I must be at fault there then as well? The bearings in my Rohloff hub only last ~ a year at a time as well, so clearly I must be doing something wrong there and so on…. If you want to know someone who is really 'doing it wrong' then try MattMagic's blog, his wear/breakage rate would seem ridiculous to most but he also does far more offroad riding than most people on here, including me. A month for him is probably a year for the average offroader. So I don't buy into the "it hasn't happened to me therefore you're wrong" ideal.

Without trying to sound condescending I find that I seem to wear things out quite quickly compared to others as I ride exclusively offroad and like to spend time on my bike. Annoying as it is to be continually faffing with maintenance at times!

If all that has happened is the grey dust seal has lifted then likely all you would need to do is remove the lowers and foam rings in the seals and give everything a good clean. I would recommend you do that soon though as if there is a lot of crap in there now it will do a good job of wearing your stanchions quickly which is best avoided.

Gulp…i knew biking in to work this morning was a bad idea. Yeah cheers for the vids I was thinking of youtubeing it later. I hope the wipe seal popping off wont be a regular occurance.

Donks, I've not had it happen to me before but have heard of the odd person having it happen. The vids are pretty good I think and you won't need much in the way of tools to do just that basic service. I am sure you will find it surprisingly easy after your first go. You will need some oil though, I have "Finish Line" oil as it comes in an easy to pour/difficult to spill container.

I doubt we're talking one cycle of your stanchions will lead to wear but if you persist in riding them before giving them a clean you might have a problem. The anodising is tough stuff but can only last so long if abraded with mud/sand/stone mix! 🙂

I might be slapping the old coils back on for a few days while i have a bash at a bit of RS self servicing (about time) but cheers for this, just keep an eye out for the Help me lord thread in a few days time 😀

You'll be fine donks after a practice!

PP – in what way are the Lyriks different, pretty sure I've got some play in the bushes of mine?

I had a loooooong conversation with TFTuned about my Lyriks, which are a bit sloppy. I'd sent them in to be serviced by them and they'd come back still sloppy, with no change, so I asked them to take another look at it which they did. Now it appears that Lyrik bushes can't be resized like the 32mm forks (Pike, Rev, Reba, Recon) IIRC due to the way they are designed, so the only answer is to fit new ones, which they did, for free. Also, older Lyriks like mine are prone to some play in the bushes and it keeps them supple, take away the play and you get too much stiction. Mine still have some play even with new bushes, but they work perfectly and it can't be felt in use. Apparently Boxxers should be run even slacker. 😯
Ring TFT if you don't believe me on that one…! 🙂