• This topic has 47 replies, 21 voices, and was last updated 14 years ago by al_f.
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  • Road pedals – worth it?
  • oldgit
    Free Member

    The covers are ace, Keos and Little Chef floors don't mix 😐

    uplink
    Free Member

    I just take my shoes off

    molgrips
    Free Member

    I did the shoe taking off thing too. Got lots of funny looks tho – but then, I got funny looks all the time anyway at that place.

    ratherbeintobago
    Full Member

    Has anyone mentioned Speedplays, which are said to be very good?

    Also, the Mavic road pedals are said to be good too.

    Having said all this, my road bike has Time ATAC XS Carbons on it…

    Andy

    tracknicko
    Free Member

    very subtle cleat on them ones! ha ha ha

    al_f
    Free Member

    <thread resurrection>

    OK, Time RXS pedals are on combined with some Spesh road shoes. Finding them good, but still trying to tweak the cleat position – oddly, finding it hard to get right despite having set up loads of pairs of Time ATAC cleats with no problems over the years. Anyone got any tips, specifically about:

    [list][*]The Time cleats can be mounted to offer either an inboard or outboard position for your foot on the pedal (it varies by a 2.5 mm per foot, apparently). Anyone know which of these will give a position closest to that on a MTB pedal, or have an easy way of determining which I should use, apart from the old "try both and see which feels best"?[/*]
    [*]Front-back position: I've always put my ATAC cleats so the pedal axle is directly under the ball of my foot, but in quite a few web articles on road cleat positioning they talk about putting the pedal axle behind the ball of the foot. anyone with more road experience than me like to comment?[/*][/list]

    Thanks!

    solarider
    Free Member

    Generally your feet are spaced much wider on an mtb than on a road bike because of the triple chainset and wider tyres, meaning the frame is wider at the chain stays, and meaning that the crank arms need to be wider to clear them. You won't be able to replicate this width on your road bike, and your shouldn't try to as the theory goes that the narrower the width, the better.

    In reality (and this is a bit difficult to measure), your feet should be spaced in a natural position. Stand up with your feet spaced in a naturally comfortable position. Measure the width between your feet and try to replicate this on the bike. The trouble is you probably won't be able to measure it to the nearest 2.5mm, and you probably won't be able to replicate it anyway. What is probably true is that the spacing on your MTB is too wide for your natural position and your road bike will enable you to get closer to it.

    The 2.5mm spacing adjustment is there to offer you a bit more heal clearance if you ride 'heals in'. My advice would be to set your feet as inboard as possible, and if you clip your heals, move them out the 2.5mm (which is a tiny ammount in reality).

    In terms of pedalling efficiency, you are spot on with the ball of the foot method for the cleat position. Any deviation from this might put pressure elsewhere on your foot and lead to hotspots and discomfort. If you follow my original advice about a bike fit, you might discover something different in terms of the relative length of your upper and lower legs, but for the moment, go under the ball of your foot.

    al_f
    Free Member

    Cheers, will go with that and see how I get on. Will probably take your advice and get a bike fit at some point (eventually). 🙂

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