the one stuck on the lowers – anyone else find it to be a bit out – for my 12 and a bit stone weight it suggest 105-120 psi, yet about 90 feels right….

I have no numbers to hand but it was to high buy miles for me

Look at sag? (20 to 30%)

You should set it by sag.

yeah, sorry that’s what I meant, for 25% sag in riding kit it needs a chunk less air than the guide..

ampthill – same here, thanks

I have the 2012 dual air and at around 12 st think 90 is about right for 20-25% sag.

thanks jsync. these are 2013 solo air, but seem similar, cheers

I’m about half a stone lighter in my kit but in my dual air had to go to 95 psi (with 20% sag) to avoid diving under braking when coming down something short(ish) but steep.

At 90 psi I had the recomended 25% sag. But had the dive mentioned above.

What am I doing wrong?

How much travel would you expect to get on general xc from a 120mm version?

Normal Man – with mine at 90 I use pretty much all the travel on a lumpy ride. Certainly 110-115 mm

Thanks.

I think I had better drop psi then. On a xc ride (pretty flat) I’d used 60mm. My father has same forks but set at 100mm and he used 55mm on same type of ride. He is half stone heavier than me.

I am just getting used to playing with my forks and rear shock after months out injured (just after buying my new fs too!)

I had dual airs a while ago, are you setting them up as per instructions – let all the air out the negative, then all out the positive, then pump up positive to say 90, then negative to same or 5 psi less ?

Miles out for me too. 12ish stone, 90ish 95 psi

Thanks Iain. Originally I did. Now just checking the psi and/or topping up.

Long shot and OT, did you used to be on Commencal forum years ago?

Not me, I’m afraid 🙂

No worries. Back then I had v brakes and a coil fork, aaahhhh the simplicity!

Crazy thing is I’m running 30% sag on rear shock as neither 20 or 25% meant much travel once the pro pedal was on. (sag set on open setting of course.)

Sorry for thread hijack too!

also need to fulling depress the forks to allow the air chambers to balance and if the forks are new themthem bed in a bit.. they will soften up a little. i found coming from a manitou minute that reba’s are just not quite as sensitive to small bumps

the one stuck on the lowers – anyone else find it to be a bit out – for my 12 and a bit stone weight it suggest 105-120 psi, yet about 90 feels right….

yes ignore it. just use what pressure gets you the sag and make sure to cycle the fork a few times to let the air flow into both cambers.

I’m about half a stone lighter in my kit but in my dual air had to go to 95 psi (with 20% sag) to avoid diving under braking when coming down something short(ish) but steep.

keep the sag how you want it and use the compression adjust to stop it diving under braking.

I am around 73-74 KG. I am running 90PSI and get around 25% sag. As has been said above, compress the fork a few times to get air into the negative air chamber then check for sag. Use the low speed compression to stop brake dive etc.

Thanks. Clearly I’ve been a bit dim here after years of coil forks.

So the blue ‘lockout’ dial on top of the fork leg can be dialled for compression too then? What is a good recommended start point?

I’d left mine fully open as I took it as no more than a lockout dial.

Thanks again.

BTW any of you good with fox triad ii rear shocks too?

On Rock Shox forks the blue dial is a low speed compression which has the range of fully open to lockout. Unless you have a pop lock version you should be able to set it anywhere you want.

If you have the pop lock version then you need to buy the correct remote to allow you to adjust but there are some cheaper alternatives like using an old style gear lever.

The recommended starting point is fully open and then keep adjusting till it feels good then keep going till it feels bad and then go back. You need to keep adjusting till it starts to feel bad again so you actually know where the limits are.

What do you need help with for your rear shock? The same concept applies to all forks and shocks.

On Rock Shox forks the blue dial is a low speed compression which has the range of fully open to lockout. Unless you have a pop lock version you should be able to set it anywhere you want.

is that the case on the current Solo Air ones ? I must admit I use mine either fully on or fully off, but it does have half a dozen clicks in between

I’ve felt the lockout ‘click’ on mine but then just went to open. Not sure I noticed any clicks in between but then I wasn’t looking for any either. I just thought, after my long lay off, I’d start again by following the chart from Spesh. It didn’t mention compression on the forks so I wasn’t looking as I said.

For the rear shock it recommends 20-25% sag but using my weight range gets 30%. I did try it on the harder setting (more psi) but didn’t get much travel on my mainly flat xc loop.

For eg. The chart says 20-25% sag equals 10 to 13mm on the O ring. However I then only got 25mm (incl sag) of travel. At 30% sag (15mm) I got just over 30mm travel on the O ring.

Hope that makes sense.

Can you use the blue lock out on non motion control forks for compression damping?

What MTB reccomends 30% sag for the rear in last months mag, which matches what feels best for me, before I thought I was just correcting the mistake of buying the wrong bike.

Still 20-25% for the front

Cool.

Just got back from another test ride with a few little drops in it. Dropped the fork psi down to 80 in the end to get 25% sag (actually it was more like 22% tbh) but didn’t have time to fettle any more as my son turned up ready to ride.

I went two clicks off full open on compression dial which stopped the brake dive! Result.

Rear I went back up 5psi to get 25% sag – the chart recommends 20-25% at 10-13mm on O ring as I mentioned and I had 12mm.

After an hours xc ride, mainly flat with the aforementioned dips, I had just over 30mm on rear O ring and 80mm on front forks. Does that sound about right? I’d be well chuffed if this thread has got me dialled in.

With regards to the original question. You might be finding the pressure guide on the fork leg inaccurate due to the fork being in need of a service.
Moisture and dirt in the fork will prevent it from moving smoothly and freely and make correct set-up impossible as your rider weight will have to overcome the friction of the sticky internals.
In other words – start from scratch and get it all serviced and running smooth THEN look at your pressures and sag.
🙂

Can you use the blue lock out on non motion control forks for compression damping?

the TK damper? Nope think thats just fully open or lockout.

What MTB reccomends 30% sag for the rear in last months mag,

Not everyone has the same preferences so its best to experiment and find what works best for you. Recommended sag range is from 20% – 30%.

After an hours xc ride, mainly flat with the aforementioned dips, I had just over 30mm on rear O ring and 80mm on front forks. Does that sound about right?

If it felt better according to you then yes stick with it.
ideally you want your forks to bottom out on the biggest hits you encounter on your ride otherwise no point having the extra travel. but if the ride is very smooth then yeah probably sounds about right.

Next step is to fiddle with the positive and negative chambers on the dual air fork and really make your fork work well. 🙂