bloody helpful

At least as helpful as the rest; you're studiously ignoring all the ways to save weight that actually work without costing anything. If your sole intention is to have a light bike, carry on. If you really want to save weight overall, you need to look at the whole rider/kit/bike setup…

TJ – how are you working out the speed for a 36/11 combo btw? is it experience or a tj formula?

crikey i know that dude, hence riding a hell of a lot more. Surely trying to get the bike to the point where it is light and functional is part of the goal.
I don't need to ask how to lose weight off me thats simple – eat less ride more.
Just want to know if i have overlooked a significant part that could be lighter, still as strong, and not break the bank.

Tyres.

I use my 44t on the flat, never mind downhill – and I have the lungs akin to an empty crisp packet.

Quite probably njee, not sure on racing ralphs as the nobby nic usts i had were not so hot round here, slashed sidewall 🙁

Then no. You'll have to spend a reasonable amount of money, or compromise on something.

36 / 11 is what I have as top gear on all my bikes. the speedos on them read 28+ mph when I spin out. Have been up to 35 mph and still pedalling. 28 is comfy. 35 is possible but you are spinning like a crazy frog

The gear ratios are easy to work out – 36 /11 is between 44/13 and 44 /14

Losing the 44 and getting a 36 loses you top gear or two only. I never miss it nor does anyone else I know who rides 22 /36 chain rings – except occasionally on the road downhill. Just learn to spin those pedals. its only a few grammes but its free weight loss.

ROFL, the bottom line is that the kind of weight loss you can achieve by exchanging bits on your bike will have next to no influence at all, other than in your mind.

I know, I've been there with road bikes and mountain bikes.

The key is getting better, and the way towards that goal is training; unfortunately there is no free lunch….

free lunch = fat b4stard surely?

Aluminium bolts in your brake levers/shifters/mechs/bottle cages will save a few grammes with no negative effect, but that money would be better put towards more money on some proper weight saving.

TJ – regarding changing to a 2 ring setup, it is a new (unused) chainset with 22/32/44 rings. The middle being the composite type so would not want to swap this (yet) for a 36t

I reckon ride it and enjoy rather than procrastinate about saving weight

So have you just closed your own thread?!

You could buy a 4" travel race bike, that'd shave some weight.

My first thought was tyres – they do seem quite heavy although it depends what type of riding you do.

Speedkings are light; me and 2 mates use them regularly & I don't think we puncture anymore than before we got them. Last puncture I had with them was last yrs 24/12 & that was user error – tiredness, not enough psi, pinch flat.

my two penneth. I had an anthem that i spent a fortune on making light. Dt240 on stans race. Hope mini pro team. Carbon. Ti. High roller race series tyres. And so on bike rode lovely and much lighter than stock. moved the kit onto my turner rode crap just all over on decents. Put on heavier gear weighs prob only two to three pounds more and rides far better. So in my opinion if you want a light bike that rides well buy a race bike if you want to keep yours get used to the weight. On the plus ride my turner goes up and down far better than the anthem despite the weight 🙂

beware tho i also tried all the really light kit on a cannondale caffeine it weighed just over twenty pounds but rode awful it was all over the shop up and down it was too light

ROFL
looking at yr build I would suggest definitely changing yr saddle which is quite heavy at >200g
Change to a selle italia slr which I think is 108 or 125g – I have one and always mean to change it as people comment on how uncomfortable it must be but still used it offf road for 4 years and now run it on my road bike.
Also change to double as TJ says – if youre peddaling out just fit a bigger set of rings or learn to spin more
Without having a dig (as one of the posters seems to be),make sure your bike is clean before riding and look at coating with that mud repellant stuff – its amazing how much a bike can pick up in terms of mud etc on a ride

SLRs are a claimed 135g, although always tend to come in a bit heavier than that. Wait for the new Toupe SL perhaps, sure it'll be snaptastic at 112g.

mick (firestarter) – only trying to get it to be 28lb ish

what you at now rob. I got some dt ex 1750 wheels on the turner now that saved a load of weight over my old hope mavic set but still ride spot on. Cant really see any other places for saving major weight without major cost or ride compromise. Ive given up on saving weight now too expensive 🙂 tho ive lost over a stone recently which feels way better than any light kit ive ever bought 🙂 good luck fella

had my slr for 7 years on and off road use, no problem with breakage
ROFL – could also change seatpost and bars for carbon, which are strong enough for everyday use
also if you can afford it – change to carbon cranks for more weight saving

Woop – just cleaned and weighed it as is – 28.7lb 🙂

happy bunny

If your spokes weighed 895g either your scales or calculations seriously need checking.

DT Revs are about 130g per wheel.

tyres is the big one with what you have rob.
could save 100g per end if changed to something else. but that goes on you, some folk get on with nics, some dont. there are other similar weight tyres…
change to an easton monkeylite carbon bar (100g + saved)
brakes, could be had at 300 an end, so you could save 200g there. easy
saddle another 100g.

thats another 600g!!

spokes, thats definately wrong!
the heaviest dt spokes available (alpine 3's) are 418grams for 64…
would assume your wheels are built with competitions? or super comps, so either 380, or 318 grams for 64…

and i've just lost you half a kilo in spokes!!

cheers oli 🙂

looking at tyres – what companies apart from spesh and bonty do tubeless ready as opposed to ust?

i used to used bonty jones acx tr – 2.35 on the front and 2.2 on the back would be bob on and and 260ish grams lighter. Perform well in the winter too 🙂

why not just go back to them?
if it works, why change for change's sake?

dunno of anyone else that isn't proper ust…

i changed from them when the weather got nice and wanted something faster rolling with lower knobbles. Will go back when these wear out

my cannondale rush is 19lbs ……with big tyres 2.25 and 110mm of travel

course it is

on park bike scales 19.24lbs size large with tufo xc3 tubs

challenge then – pix and specs

rush carbon size large
carbon lefty speed sl 110
xo gripshift
xo rear mech with ti bolts and kcnc ceramic jockey wheels
alligator i-link cables with power cords
si bb30 28-42 chainset ceramic bearings
kcnc scanduim bars uncut
si stem with ti bolts and carbon faceplate
xtr brakes with ti bolts
mavic slr tubs with ti freehub and ti disk rotor bolts
tufo xc3 tubs 2.25
arione carbon team
thompson masterpiece with ti bolts
look quartz carbon ti
simica bar ends with ti bolts
foam decathalon grips bargain at £3 and 28g
carbon superstar components bottle cage with ti bolts

pictures here…..told you so
http://s572.photobucket.com/albums/ss161/32dugast/?action=view&current=P7220018.jpg

Bruce

If you want it to *feel* faster then ditch the tubes and let the pressure down a bit.. Then do a rolling race with someone with tubes and breeze on past them, blowing raspberries.
Bonty tyres are scary light and have thin sidewalls but are supple as f*** tubeless. Light Conti's are probably better…
Loose the lock-ons and get some proper grips (foam or cork-foam.. one-one are doing some for £4) and stick them on with artists spray mount glue. They will never, ever move again until you have to cut them off.

as i said right at the beginning – i am tubeless, foam lock ons also

bruce – where are you losing nearly 10lbs from over mine? Where are the weights?

Get that shock turned round to make the suspension work better.

Apparently.

thought about that today – whats the science?

As of today:

less mass for the movement to overcome.

its more than likely completely un-noticable to the likes of you and me but many mechanics on the WC circuit are of the opinion it can be noticed and measured…

i dont have the time to do any analysis cause i am ummm riding my bike.

ROFL Harris – Member
bruce – where are you losing nearly 10lbs from over mine? Where are the weights?

erm, everywhere? chunk lighter in the frame and forks, (easily over a kg) will be 1lb+ in the wheels, similar again in tyres.

everything seems to have ti bolts…
all top end stuff, 200g plus in cranks. just everything is lighter rob! 50-100g over 20 things adds up a bit…