Options for Shimano press-fit BB (BB90)?
The BB on my Zesty has died after about 3 months (it's seen a fair bit of muddy riding but not been jet-washed) so ideally I'd prefer a better sealed option (or something more user serviceable like the Hope BBs). However as it's a Shimano press-fit BB I can't see any choice out there apart from an actual Shimano one (and even then I can't see any different options for models). Any ideas?Posted 8 years ago
But if it's BB90 there is no sealing, it's just 2 bearings pressed into the frame, surely there is nothing else. That was the point of BB90, which Trek designed originally for the Madone, it does away with cups and everything. This sounds like a different system again!Posted 8 years ago
@njee20 – piccie of BB below, I wouldn't fancy my chances of finding something non-cycling specific that would fit and be properly sealed…
@cycnic-al – sound advice but the tricky part is not damaging the seals when taking them apart
I'm just surprised no one else has had a similar issue given how popular the Zesty & Spicy seems to be.Posted 8 years agomarkdMember
Its not BB90 its just XTR bearings.
As far as we have found we cannot just place bearings in the shell as mentioned above and it seems that this is the only BB we can get.
In the shop we sell a lot of zestys and spicys and we have only really had a couple in for BB replacement. Mine got super stiff the other week so i just GT85'd it cause it had been wet and it works perfectly again.
the bearings inside are tiny, in a retainer race as well so there isn't actually that many bearings.
The removal from the bike process is pretty destructive too – you need to belt them out!
MarkPosted 8 years ago
Mine has just gone in my zesty. As far as i could work out there was no choice but replacing like for like at £50 for the shimano one.
The bearing cover came off pretty easily when i was having a play so might pay it a bit more attention than the last one in terms of cleaning and regreasing the bearings with the cups in situ to see if i can make this one last any longer.Posted 8 years ago
Bummer, was hoping for better news on options but at least I know I'm not the only one getting shafted for £50 crappily sealed Shimano bearings 😉
@markd – out of interest have you had anyone fit a bash guard or chain device that uses the ISCG tabs? As near as I can tell most devices rely on them being flush with the BB face but on the Zesty they're set way back (where a normal shell would stop not the 90mm on the Zesty).Posted 8 years agomarkdMember
bash guard…. not yet although James in the shop has just got the metal bit for a DRS. Using it on a spicy, not fitted yet though.
Its meant to be ISCG05 though… just that it might involve some tools…
pjt201 – the bearings are v small. it allows a larger shell for stiffness sure but the actual physical ball bearings are pretty wee.Posted 8 years ago
I have a e13 DRS (ISCG05) mounted on my zesty
fits a treat with no special tools. The hole in the middle of the backing plate that carries the jockey wheel is much bigger than the BB housing and sits outside it.
My BB has started creaking like mad, hence stumbling on this thread…..Posted 8 years ago
Yeah some article I read referenced it as BB90 but it's not. Still actually waiting on getting mine replaced as the LBS forgot to order it (been injured so not in any hurry).
The proper removal and installation tools look very basic but stupidly expensive, will probably hold off buying them for now and see how long the second BB lasts to see if they're a worthwhile investment.
The bashguard I have (MRP triple ring one) doesn't quite fit over the BB shell so I'm just going to widen the hole until it does and then see if the bits are in the right place.
Still not sure why they use this type of BB on the Zesty – I guess to allow a wider BB shell, still seems a lot of faff though.Posted 8 years agoHendy TrekerMember
One side of mine died after 4 months on my Zesty and had a little trouble finding out initially, how to remove the bearings on their own. Bearings can be gently tapped out of the plastic housing from the other end of the bb, using a sharp chisel and pressed in as normal. Just remember to use a little grease in the plastic housing, or It'll creak like mad!Posted 8 years agoRockdodgerSubscriber
I recently fitted one of thesesPosted 8 years ago
Rockdodger – that is the standard one.
You can't really get em out without damaging them.
The situation is the same as it was 4months ago, just the Shimano ones as i mentioned before (markd). If i am wrong then someone please let me know.Posted 8 years ago
Urgh, cheap gits. I cant see any advantage of a press fit BB over a threaded HT2 jobbie? why on earth have they turned to these at manufacture? theyve got to be cheaper. I quite fancied a zesty, but not bloody likely now.
That said, ive been jet washing my bike for the last year or more, no probs with any of my bearings. but then again, I know how to service them once in a while.Posted 8 years agovikingboyMember
Hey Grimy, having read up on the lapierres BB90 it sounds pretty cool actually – some definite advantages over the standard BB, however, like all new things there are limited choices for bearings right now.
Shimano or Enduro are the only options Ive found so far.
I think my bearings are now toast too hence why Im looking for a replacement set – giving the crank arms a push it only spins half a turn with no chain attached! <groan>Posted 8 years agodavefarmerMember
Stop talking about BB90, that is a Trek system, this is not BB90
Thjis is sometimes referred to as BB86, or himano standard press fit.
FSA currently make a stainless bearing and a ceramic bearing kit for BB86 and also another type, can't remember the name at the moment, got it written down at work.
Ask your Lapierre dealer to look in the FSA 2009/2010 brochure, there is a whole page on BB's that are of a quwirky nature. Or call Windwave, they had them in stock last time i called. Go Ceramic, smooooooth.
FSA cranks will not fit through a shimano, or Hope BB
But all shimano cranks will fit through an FSA BB fine.Posted 8 years agomarkenduroMember
Looks like the bearings themselves will be standard ht2, you can pull out the outer seals and then the bearing race seals and pump more grease in, the bearings themselves can also be replaced in ht2 (even though it says do not disassemble on them)so can't see why you shouldn't be able to do this, you could most likely fit some enduro or phil woods bearings back in to replace the shimano ones.Posted 8 years agodiggerythedogMember
Just ordered one myself, had a right proper job getting the old one out though (hammer and screwdriver), £50 for the shimano removal tool is starting to look OK. Anyone having problems with thier headset?, another bit of cheap kit in my opinion, nice bikes let down with cheap kit.Posted 8 years agostuartanicholsonMember
Took mine out with a screwdriver…new ones are £50 so put the old one back in. It was abit mangled, but bodge job works…
Left out the sleeve and packed the new bearings with grease…been going since end of december just fine!
My headet bearings have been fine. Stripped and re-greased every now and again. They are just normal integrated bearings so dont know if noticably higher quality can be found…Posted 8 years agocheers_driveMember
I've been getting loads out of the frame after a wet ride and it must go somewhere other than just down the seat tube as you need to hold the frame at various to get all the water out. I tried using a strip of electrical tape and a neoprene headset guard to stop the water running down the tube but it's still getting in a little.Posted 7 years ago
I've also now jammed a bike tag 'bung' down the seat tube which I'm not sure is a good idea as if any water does get passed it it can't escape 😐
Yes – tried all the tape/neoprene things without any luck myself.Posted 7 years ago
The inner tube thing does work though, just a bit of a faff getting it stretched over the clamp. If you have a QR, you'll need holes, which I made by putting puncture repair patches on the relevant areas first – that way the rubber doesn't split. One ziptie above the clamp and one below and job done. I also put a square of innertube in the thomson clamp, to cover the top of the seat tube, which is open and only covered by that U shaped piece of alloy.
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