Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • Numpty chain tugs question
  • chillidave
    Free Member

    I ordered one from On-one, I thought it might come as a pair. Searching on line I have seen a few examples of bikes with one each side. Do I need two to make it work or can i just use one for the drive side and tension the other with the QR?

    Let the stone throwing commence!

    takisawa2
    Full Member

    I’d always thought one on the drive side, but I’m sure Brant reckoned running one on the other side worked best.

    Have you got a Shimano hub ?
    If so swap the axle for a solid one with nuts.
    You won’t need a chaintug.

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    just one on the drive side and QR hub is fine.

    velomanic
    Free Member

    I emailed On One to ask if the 9mm QR tugs were supplied as a pair. Had an email back saying that they were supplied individually and just one on the drive side would be ok.

    chillidave
    Free Member

    Thanks all, glad it’s not as stupid a question as I first thought. It’s a Novtech hub so I will try it on the drive side and see how it goes.

    wobbliscott
    Free Member

    I struggle with one on the drive side and find I can’t tighten the QR tight enough to stop it slipping. I’m going to get a second tug. Less gaff than carrying a spanner around.

    billyblackheart
    Free Member

    I always ran two on a bmx…but I guess they take much more punishment.

    jonba
    Free Member

    I ran none on my commuter for years and years. Run one on mymtb and one on my ss roadie.

    righog
    Free Member

    I needed to run 2. I got mine from Charlie the bike monger and they were sold in pairs. I changed to a solid BMX soild threaded axle in the end as I still could not get the wheel to stay straight.

    brant
    Free Member

    You only need one on the driveside.
    Singlespeed frames that have seatstay mounted brake caliper are fundamentally flawed as the position of the brake creates a force which tries to move the non drive side of the axle backwards in the horizontal dropout slot.
    This can be fixed with a big nutted axle, but it’s also the reason on one singlespeeds have chainstay mounted brake calipers.

    tazzymtb
    Full Member

    If so swap the axle for a solid one with nuts.
    You won’t need a chaintug.

    I still need a tug on those as my chubby little legs can make ’em move.

    wobbliscott
    Free Member

    Good point on the brake caliper mount position Brant. That could be the issue i’m having with my SS Roadrat. Seems strange that the guys from Cotic missed that when on their fork they mount the caliper on the right hand frontside of the leg for this very reason. I’m just going with two chain tugs.

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    Wobbliscott – it won’t help – chain tugs stop the axle moving forward not back.

    theotherjonv
    Full Member

    I use one each side, even on my inbred. But I still struggle to get the wheel central, I can’t rely on having the same thread each side on the chaintugs which I guess is manufacturing tolerances or paint on the dropouts or something. So I go by eye but my eyes are rubbish. Any foolproof tips on how to do it?

    takisawa2
    Full Member

    I still need a tug on those as my chubby little legs can make ’em move.

    Oh well aren’t you just a power house of such immensenessness with yer wibble rings & & & nichenessness….

    🙂

    tazzymtb
    Full Member

    Oh well aren’t you just a power house of such immensenessness with yer wibble rings & & & nichenessness….

    you knows it, will have to catch up on the chase at some point soon as you can play on fat bikes and jeff for some extra niche 😀

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)

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