Having read footflaps and other threads about the man caves and having seen the George Clarke small space series, got me thinking…. I’d like need to ‘upgrade’ the aging shed sometime this year if money allows… 🙂

Wont have enough dosh for a footflaps type build or cut up and re-weld a freight container! So a log cabin would be the max I could afford I think.

Size wise max it would be about 8.5 – 9ft wide and around 12 – 14 ft long.
Got loads to do with prepping and leveling the area before hand also.

Has anyone any experience with buying/fitting these, any recommendations?
Seen the add on here for Duncans.

I also remember seeing on here a while ago someone doing a DIY wooden workshop. So wondering on costings for the DIY route also and if it would work out cheaper?

I’m not particularly good at DIY but got a couple of mates who are, so between us could put a log cabin kit together I’m sure, which obviously would be quicker than a DIY effort but I’m sure that’s a possibility.

So as well as a pointer for log cabins any help with what I need for a DIY build so I can cost up would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, right off to bed to dream about a fully finished mancave with room to work on the bikes, a log stove etc etc……ahhhh.

Tagging this for tips.

http://www.lugarde.com/garages/garage-oklahoma.html
Ordered one of these approx 3 years ago now.
Dead simple to put up (involved 3 mates and los of cider), the best part of it was done in a day. Came with all of the nails tiles and screws.

Can highly recommend the company – great product.

I’d have thought the a brick built could be as cheap as a log-cabin, especially if you were prepared to labour.

but if its brick built you will you need planning permission?

Brick or wood the planning permission issues would be the same. The height limit is probably the biggest issue. With brick you can also have a larger building before needing to meet building regs.

Built this a few years ago, kit form from Dunster House.
Close to the dimensions you are looking at, with the base, treating the wood before build and because I went for the 45mm thick option the overall cost was about £2000.

The quality of the “logs” is excellent, two tongues and grooves in each so the fit is snug, you tap them together with a rubber mallet.

The wood arrives untreated so I spent a long time giving each part two coats of preservative, anti rot etc treatment.

Windows are secure double glazed and I have put one way silvered film on these to restrict the view in.

Double doors are usefull for moving bikes in and out and for larger DIY projects. Inside is fine for mounting bikes on the walls and for a workstand with room to move round. Would have gone for the next size up but the tree in front restricted this.

Re: Planning, at the time Dunster did a range of heights to come in under the planning regs.

You will need two people to lift and position the roof timbers and allow two weekends, one to make the base and let the concrete set and the second to build the shed.

Mine is built on a slope so I used metposts concreted into the floor and then built a wooden frame to mount the shed onto, gives ventilation underneath and the way the kit comes the first timbers can be bolted into the base frame to secure it.Once built there is a lot of weight of timber and it’s not going anywhere.

Tick. I’ve got an ageing greenhouse and huge shed occupying a space that is (probably) starting to annoy the neighbours but I can’t afford the expense of a brick-built garage.

10 x8 x quite high for a shed – 350 quid in wood and a roll of felt

Thanks for replies. Reality hit home once I opened curtains and was looking at the the not new mancave!

Not sure about going down the brick built route, dont think I could afford the costs, labour etc? Well I’m assuming it would cost more…

Having read a little about planning I thought that the build can be a minimum of 1m from boundry and max height of 2.5m?

Peter, good call with the metposts. That would save a load of work.

Keep them coming chaps ta.

Trail rat, that’s what I’ve got at the mo, and it’s still going 12 years later. Only a couple of pieces rotted to be fair. However, not good in winter with damp etc.
Would like a more structurally sound as I want to put power into it as well.

Insulate it with some kingspan then – probably add 200 quid to price- i just did my garage roof with the stuff and the garage no longer even tries to be damp. Thermometor says garage stays warmer tooo …outside temp last night was -5 inside my garage with no heating was 0.5

If you dont insulate things then they will condensate creating damp.

I put power into that shed soona fter that as it gets dark early in winter 🙁

But if you want a log cabin fire on 🙂 – just make sure its insulated or itll end up as damp as your shed.

Google a guy called Dick Proneke or however you spell it – should be all you need for log cabin inspiration

I’ve never had condensation in my shed, I can’t imagine how you could? I mean, its pretty much the same temp inside as it is out, and there needs to be a temp. imbalance for condensation to take place, right?.

TR, I hope you’ve changed that lock on yer shed! 😯 😀

Trail rat, as in the tittle, not fixated on a log cabin, just something more sturdy and yes, I guess better insulated. So open to suggestions especially cheaper options 🙂 so yours is valid!

One of the Dunster builds is working out at about £3.5k at the mo, more than I’ll be able to afford I think.

Haha yes i didthat was what found in my box of bits removed from last landlords shed. No photos of what i used as if people came equipped to cut that padlock they would have been shocked 🙂

And nobeeringthefridge

Outside air temp cools quicker than shed and you have a differential across exteriors

Brick doesnt usually suffer so bad but thin materials such as wood , tim and asbestos roofs