I’m just about to buy the new orange crush am, been and seen the bike, sat on it etc. feels just right.
I spoke to the guy about swapping bits out and he is happy to do that within reason or bump the price up,
So here’s the spec;

Colour : Viper Green
Tubeset : 6061-T6 Double Butted Aluminium Tube
Swing Arm : QR Axle
Bottom Bracket : Raceface
Rear Wheel Travel :
Fork : Rockshox Revelation RL 140mm 27.5
Rear Shocks : N/A
Front Mech : Shimano Deore
Rear Mech : Shimano SLX Shadow +
Shifters : Shimano Deore
Crankset : Raceface Ride Double 24-32T Bash
Brakes : Shimano M445
Wheelset : Formula DC71/Shimano 525 + Alex MD23
Tyres : Maxxis Ardent 2.25 x 27.5
Headset : Cane Creek 49mm For Tapered Steerer
Stem : Raceface Ride
Seatpost : Raceface Ride
Seatclamp : Strange QR
Saddle : Orange SDG Falcon 2015 Chromo
Handlebars : Raceface Ride Riser 740mm
Grips : Strange Lock-On
Pedals : Flat Black
Cassette: Shimano HG62 10spd 11-36T

I’m gonna go 1×10 as it already has a clutch mech on. I think so narrow wide 32t single ring and maybe a hope expander.
I spoke to them about the tyres? Possibly upgrade to the 3c ardents.
Should I barter stans flow rims into the deal??
I would need to add to the cost but that’s ok if they deduct the build wheels off the price.
Or should I keep the rims on and add a stealth dropper?
Gonna upgrade the brakes to slx/xt after a while, also gonna upgrade shifters,cranks etc to slx/xt

What would be the most sensible parts to swap in the shop for the best discount.

“do that within reason”.What you think is reasonable will differ from the shop (who need to make some money).
Bear in mind you are unlikely to get full rrp back of the bits you are swapping.
I don’t see them rebuilding the wheels with new rims for nowt either.

I agree. Changing bits out will probably at the very least endup costing no less than the original bike, or in most cases slightly more because
a) they wont be able to sell the removed bits as new
b) it takes time, and time is money
c) they will probably charge rrp for the new bits.

Best bet is to ask the shop exactly what you did above, and see what they say, and let us know what you find out.

How heavy is a crush these days ? How much are they?

I’d probably upgrade the wheels first as those Formula hubs when used with a Deore cassette are hefty buggers.

Just noticed the cassette is HG62…. That’s SLX right? Either way, the wheels won’t be light.

For around £1300 and some shopping around on parts you could build a much better bike IMO

Having just brought a Clockwork 120S which I wanted to upgrade from new, the cheapest way, for me, was to remove the bits I didn’t want unused and unridden and sell them on eBay. Then I purchased my upgrades from German online shops. I removed the Ride chain set and sold for £80 and brought Evolve for £70, cost me £100 to upgrade to a 2015 Reba, £200 for Reverb Stealth (Orange charge £290), used Turbine stem £25 & I splurged on Pro2s with WTB KOM, got rid of the plastic MKs & fitted tubeless Trail King BC for £60 the pair. Also sold the cassette and fitted XT as Pro2 Alu freehub. Cost a bit but got what I wanted (bar a steel custom build!).
The Bird bike is an awesome spec, similar burlyness, great price in comparison to the Crush.

raceface BB? Either replace now or when it dies. Next week.
Dropper post
drivetrain is decent enough, if not exciting, replace when it wears out.
nothing wrong with the rest of the spec imo though shinier stuff is available.

Lee,I know i’ve spoke to you about the upgrades that I did on mine, i’d do as suggested above, get it bought and then sell them whilst they’re new, as that’s what I did..

my Raceface BB failed pretty quickley, as them top hats are made of cheese, Orange fitted me a Hope one, I popped it over for them to look at !..remember this isn’t a dear bike,so certain parts are lets say, Budget parts, so start there,bb,h’set,brakes,wheels etc.. 😉

What is wrong with the spec according to you? Fix that…don’t go online and asks the masses as you’ll get what they would want changed but you are riding it.

For me, performance wise,it’d be wheels, BB and the nasty Shimano brakes.

there’s nothing wrong with the bars n stem but I’d probably switch them for something a little nicer.

Thanks got the help.
I wasn’t intending that the stans and hope hubs would be swapped for free,
Bike is built when I order it so all parts are new, that’s why I was thinking about swapping parts out at this stage.

Sorry for slight change on subject but does anybody else suffer with water holding in the BB on a orange crush?

Sig123 – does it have a rear facing seat tube/clamp slot? My Clockwork does. If so, grease the seat post well, then smear some clear mastic into the slot, it should stop water getting in that way, and once set, if your lucky it won’t affect seat post height changes.