Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
  • HELP! Headset movement.
  • dylanoleon
    Free Member

    Hi,
    Removed my forks for a service and now appear to have movement in my headset when I pull the front brake. The main bolt into the star nut is as tight as I dare!
    I removed all levers/shifters from my handle bars to make it easier, but instead of it moving freely there is what feels like bearing resistance. Iv stripped it down and rebuilt it several times but no change. Most LBS are fully booked at the mo. any suggestions other than new headset.
    Thanks in advance.

    shortcut
    Full Member

    Have you missed something out? A spacer or bearing race perhaps?

    sbob
    Free Member

    As above, if your star nut is overtight and causing resistance to the steering then something else is amiss…

    khani
    Free Member

    Bearings upside down?

    andyl
    Free Member

    sounds like something not seated right or missed out.

    Whereabouts are you? Happy to take a look if you are near Bristol and you are getting nowhere.

    dylanoleon
    Free Member

    I don’t have any parts left over! Although that does sound like something I would do. I am a complete headset novice. I assume the forks should meet the bottom cup with only the enclosed bearings separating them? As luck would have it Andy, I’m Bradley stoke Bristol.
    Thanks for the quick response hoping to ride Bank holiday Monday!

    andyl
    Free Member

    I’m diagonally opposite down by the Airport 🙁

    If you lay everything out like an exploded diagram we may spot something wrong.

    You have the crown race which is fixed firmly to the steerer against the crown
    Then a lower bearing in the bottom cup which the crown race sits into
    Then the frame etc
    Then up top there is the upper bearing
    Then normally a split ring that locates the steerer in the top bearing
    Then a top cover
    Then spacers and stem
    There should be a 2-3mm gap to the top of the steerer below the top of the stem.
    Then the top cap.

    You don’t need to tighten the top cap much, it’s just a bearing preload. The stem bolts hold it all together.

    dylanoleon
    Free Member

    Andy, thats really helpful. I have gone through it step by step and have all the above bits in that order. At the risk of wasting everybody’s time, I just spoke to a mate who suggested the slight travel I have found along with a small knocking sound could be from my front wheel hub bolts! Although they seem tight to me. This is why you should not do your own bike maintenance!
    Thanks for the advice tho.

    andyl
    Free Member

    no problem.

    I check wheel bearings by trying to rock the wheel sideways in the fork.

    If you get a knock then check everything from the ground up:

    check the wheel bearings
    then the fork lowers to check the bushes aren’t worn
    Then the fork in the headset

    Another source can be the disc or brake caliper if you get a knock when braking

    jimilindley
    Free Member

    It may be obvious, but make sure that you’re tightening the star nut first, then tightening the stem bolts afterwards-really important that its that way around

    dantsw13
    Full Member

    Also, make sure there is AT LEAST 2-3mm gap between the top of the steerer and the top of the stem, otherwise the top cap cannot compress the headset as it is tightened, leading to movement/play.

    dylanoleon
    Free Member

    Some really good advice thanks. Would it still be safe to ride?

    andyl
    Free Member

    I really wouldnt.

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

The topic ‘HELP! Headset movement.’ is closed to new replies.