I am going tubeless on my DH bike.

Is it worth getting the stans tubeless kit or is the gorilla tape method just as effective and cheaper?

I’ve used both successfully, stans tape was a little easier, only because it was the right width.

What rims and tyres you’re using is much more important than what rim tape you put in.

I’ve had three out of four stans rim strips tear at the valve base. It did take between eighteen months and a two years before they went but they’re expensive so I,m not going to buy them again. Currently having good results from gorilla tape easier to fit and mount tyres and cheap enough that if does go pear shaped to retape.
If I was to go with a rim strip style again I,d go ghetto as that’s pretty much what stans rim strips are but a lot pricier.

Gorilla (or other brands of similar tape) is fine.

Just make sure you use Stans sealant though. Some others are too thin.

Two bikes here on Gorilla tubeless. No problems to report.

Stan’s sealant is the best as stated above.

Gorilla/duct tape will conform more easily to odd or fiddly rim profiles, but if you ever have to retape, it’ll leave a load of annoying residue that Stan’s doesn’t.

Stan’s is Tesa 4289, but only Stan’s seem to sell it above 25mm width.

I used Gorilla tape for mine, but bought an Airshot to make the changing to mud spikes and getting them up in a race-field dance a little easier.

Went for gorilla tape and Stan’s sealant and it seems to have worked. Used an airshot too. I suppose I’ll know how successful it was tomorrow morning when I check them!

WTB tape is same as Stan’s and significantly cheaper on CRC

Gorilla works just fine though.

50mm Tesa here:

https://www.shandhigson.co.uk/tesa-packaging-tapes/535-heavy-duty-strapping-tape-tesa-4289.html

Did you all use the stans valves too?

I’ve used Stans valves and made ghetto ones from old tubes (best to find ones with removable valve cores). Both worked well.

You can get a 25m roll of 25mm tesa 4289 off ebay for £10 😉

The new stans race sealant is ace too, bit more expensive but seals a hell of a lot better.

I’ve gone the next step this year and put ‘pro core’ on the DH bike. For DH racing I’d Def recommend it, running 17.5psi fr and 19psi rear whatever the terrain the tyres stick to ground like sh1t to a blanket!!

If you want to do it on the cheap, I also set up one wheel set Ghetto procore, bit more of a faff, but def works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlrvET4BgN0

Pro-core. The low pressures make such a difference in the wet. Its expensive but means I didn’t have to replace my rims after this years Alps trip like I did the year before.

Pro core looks interesting. The wheels I have are not the best so I will look into the pro core when I replace the wheelset with something a bit nicer.

Agree about Pro Core, I cut my rear tyre at this years Ard Rock and not only did I finish the stage but I didn’t need to replace my back wheel. So according to my man maths it’s paid for itself.