I’ve been riding my onone fat bike far more than I thought, so I’m interested in some upgrades.
The tubes were binned for lightweight 180gram tubes.
I guess next are rims, wheels or some of the lighter sub 1000g tyres hitting the market.
Tyres would cost around £200 so would I be better off dropping weight by changing the rims or ditching the wheels set for something else.

Lots of options and not sure the best bang for the ££££

Halo Tundra are good, should be lighter than the stock on-one, not sure how they compare to drilled on-one rims tho.

Not sure how tubless compatible they are tho, need to try doing mine soon.

I converted mine to tubeless.

Made a difference, but not so much in weight oddly. The foam/tape weighed about the same as the On-One rim strip (~80g) and it took 100g of spaff and still looked dry, so really the loss is <100g per wheel.

Drilling apparently shed’s 150g per wheel.

Not sure what I’ll do to mine next, on the one hand it’s now the only bike I ride so could justifiably get some attention, on the other I don’t think it’s worth upgrading, it’s fun for what it is, chasing a lightweight build seems to be missing the point.

I reckon in a year or so I might get a Canyon Dude or similar, probably the cheapest way to shed 3kg+ and gain a bluto which would probably make more difference.

120Tpi Kenda Juggernauts were weighed in at 770gms. Find a pair of those and go for the easy win. Carbon forks if you’re still running the steel ones?

I took 375gm or so off by drilling.

180gm tubes? 😯

180gm tubes?

Schwalbe 26×3.0″ tubes.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Schwalbe-26X2-1-3-0-Tube-Presta-SV13F/dp/B001EII1JY

The 65mm wide Chinese carbon rims are about £160 each by the time you’ve paid shipping and duty and are about half the weight of the stock alloy rims (c.500g compared to c.850g).

Or take out a second mortgage and throw £1800 at a pair of 85mm Kuroshiros (400g per rim).

GB

Not interested in tubeless on this bike.
The tubes have been perfect and at 180 grams i don’t think I’ll gain any weight advantage.

The rims are drilled already – forgot to mention that,

I agree, tyres would be the quick win just have the nagging feeling I’m better off with lighter rims and retaining the grip of the floaters.

As a side note. I’m only interested in rotating weight of the wheels, not a light weight bike ( if that makes sense )

I upgraded mine to SunRingle MuleFut 80 mm rims, tubeless with their tubeless tape.

Only concern was whether I had enough chain clearance to run 2×10. I did, just barely..

Wait for the dt swiss br710s to come out, light and wide.

Got a pair of Tundra rims to sell. £75 posted.
Got pics if interested.

Anyone know the weight of an onone fat rim ?

I’ll check tomorrow – got some unused ones in the garage.

Put it this way – I had the onone hubs rebuilt into Nextie 80mm rims with DT Rev spokes and the new wheels were two grams heavier than the discarded rims. So basically you can save the weight of a set of hubs and 64 spokes. And the tubes if you go tubeless.

Rims – http://www.robsson.de/en/

80mm rims self drilled with 40mm holes come in at around 750grams, 100mm’s at 860grams with 40mm holes – I own both, and drilled both.

Tyres – http://www.ridewill.it/search/en/?search=fat%20bike&idtipo=1&idCat1=16&idCat2=146

I own some duro’s (summer 4″) and chao-yang 4.9’s (beach, maybe winter??) – the duro’s are not my favourite, they come up a bit small, so need a bit more pressure. I love the feel of the 4.9’s with about 5-6psi in (and i’m a fat bastard!)

Two cheap ways to save over stock On One wheels – that I also have on my fatty.

My Mulefut rims weigh 813 and 856 grams. 830g is the quoted weight on their website. The beadlock on these is fantastic!

I bought a set of On-One Fatty 29er wheels for the hubs to go with the Mulefut rims. Final built weight is 1275g front, 1528g rear (hub, DT butted spokes, rim, brass nipples). No tape, rim strip, valve, cassette, rotor, or skewer included in weight.

Are the original Onone hubs worth rebuilding ? They’re working fine for me but I’ve only put 600/700 miles on them so far.

LBS reckoned they were decent enough.

Curious about the new on one El guapo fat hubs, seem to be a good price and think you can change axle standards.

I agree, tyres would be the quick win just have the nagging feeling I’m better off with lighter rims and retaining the grip of the floaters.

Floaters have grip!? who knew. Ok i joke but seriously, dont focus on weight and get some good tyres, makes a huge difference, not just tread grip but deformation grip, comfort, rebound etc.

They work well where I ride. It’s also covered in flint so on not too gutted if they rip.
Another consideration when swapping to sub 1000 tyres vs rims

Personally ill never run a floater on the front again now ive ridden a Nate and Bud. I still run floater on the back to save wear on other tyres, but its noticably not as good (appreciate its still good, just not as good). Bike already weighs a lot so id even take wire bead nate (£45) over saving weight but having to run a floater.

Another consideration is bottom bracket height, there is often a fair bit of difference if you go from running a 4.5 to running a 4.0, pedal strikes can become more often.

Thanks for the heads up on the El Guapo hubs. Just ordered a set for my build. Been scratching my head over hubs for ages – not much scratching to be done at £150 a set is there? As for the rims, bought some from Germany for £35 each – 880g per. Seemed reasonable.

On the subject of the on-one hubs, did anyone who’s bought a fatty recently with the V2 hubs get 15mm adapters with them?

Not taken mine apart to see if they’re the V2 ones or not, just curious in case bluto’s ever appear anywhere cheap.

I took 375gm or so off by drilling.

Any idea what the stock rim weighs? I’m torn between the effort of drilling and the instant gratification of carbon.