Trail-Blazer – Member
Slowrider
Hmmm’

Now I’m taking a flyer here and suggest that the calliper is effectively a 165mm fitting (Same as hope C2, similar design) and the Manitou mount you were originally supplied took the brake +15mm (God knows why) to fit a 180mm rotor rather than a 185, sound feasible to anyone else?

The test would be will it mount up on an IS fork without an adapter using a 165mm Hope rotor (or the 164mm you keep on about)….

Thoughts?

sound feasible to anyone else?

Yep and i reckon its because most forks they fit wont be warrented above 180mm rotors.

Trail-Blazer – Member
Slowrider
Hmmm’

Now I’m taking a flyer here and suggest that the calliper is effectively a 165mm fitting (Same as hope C2, similar design) and the Manitou mount you were originally supplied took the brake +15mm (God knows why) to fit a 180mm rotor rather than a 185, sound feasible to anyone else?

The test would be will it mount up on an IS fork without an adapter using a 165mm Hope rotor (or the 164mm you keep on about)….

Thoughts?

If that all checks out then you either need a +15mm mount to use your 180mm disc,
or a 185mm rotor to use your +20mm mount. or a 165mm rotor and don’t bother with any adapters…

If it is then the IS caliper is for a 165mm rotor, adding a +20 would make it work with a 185mm rotor. The dodgy giant post mount adaptor is whats throwing us here, most adaptors of this sort are +20 but the Giant one appears to be a +15 (if it makes your 165mm caliper works with a 180mm rotor)

That must be what it is – their post mount adaptor is +15 so the A2Z +20 IS to IS pushes the caliper out 5mm too far…

And back to the steerer, if you inserted it with an insertion tool rather than bashing it in with a hammer, you should have no problems at all getting it warrantied. If you bashed it in with a hammer, missed and mangled something, forced it out etc then they may argue it. Impacts=more force than expected.

Okay, i have a spare 164mm rotor I can try on the forks without a mount. I would prefer 180s really but I don't think you can get a +15mm IS to IS adaptor. I would use a 185 disc but i haven't seen one that has a braking surface as wide as these MPH rotors 😕

I would use a 185mm disc but i haven't seen one that has a braking surface as wide as these MHP rotors

You need an old hope Closed 2 rotor like THIS, there should be a few going if you put a WTD in the classifieds.

Considering the steerer tube is apparently made of paper, I’m not sure I’d want to risk putting anymore load through the legs…

Don’t forget now you’re going all light/carbony/rigid your bike weighs less and you won’t have any fork dive under braking, you’ll probably find a 165mm on the new setup about as effective as the 180mm was with the manitous plus a 165mm rotor is even lighter, count thos grams…

I'd give the 165 a go before buying a bigger rotor

Thanks for the link Stato. That looks perfect to me. I just tried a 164mm rotor on the IS mount and it is a perfect fit so it's safe to assume a 185mm rotor will be spot-on if I use a 20mm adaptor. I will have a hunt around to see if a 15mm adaptor exists but it's unlikely, I know. 🙂

Still need to resolve the fork issue before I worry about changing rotors…

cookeaa – Member
Considering the steerer tube is apparently made of paper, I’m not sure I’d want to risk putting anymore load through the legs…

Don’t forget now you’re going all light/carbony/rigid your bike weighs less and you won’t have any fork dive under braking, you’ll probably find a 165mm on the new setup about as effective as the 180mm was with the manitous plus a 165mm rotor is even lighter, count thos grams…

I'd give the 165 a go before buying a bigger rotor

Good point. 164s would be more than adequate for my chilled out riding style 😉

Think I have sussed out the quote system on here too 😆

Don't forget you'll need to shim the caliper in order to centralise it – unless you're very lucky

Think I have sussed out the quote system on here too

good work, Enjoy…

uplink – Member
Don't forget you'll need to shim the caliper in order to centralise it – unless you're very lucky

Funny you should say that. I do think the caliper will require a washer or too 😉

TandemJeremy – Member
IS mount is not for any specific size of rotor – it is an IS mount. You use different callipers for different size rotors or an adaptor.

Yeah you were right – it was all down to the size of the caliper…

Right chaps, I have just found this front disc mount on CRC…

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=29507

They do an IS 180mm mount. It sounds like it should work but would I have the same issues with the MPH caliper size resulting in me needing a 185mm rotor?

Nope that is completely the wrong adapter.

You would use it if you had to mount a post mount caliper on to an IS fork.

You have an IS fork and an IS mount, 165mm, caliper: you either want a 185mm rotor and a +20mm IS – IS adapter or just stick with a 165mm rotor and no adapter…

Trail-Blazer – you could (in theory) use that adaptor, along with the Giant adaptor, to run a 180mm rotor. However, as the giant adaptor is not a common item there is no way of knowing if it will fit the atomlab adaptor without actually trying (the dimensions are correct, but there might be a caliper/adaptor/fork interaction which prevents it all fitting together)

Ahhh, i see, what your getting at it may work if you used the 160mm Funn IS mount with your existing Giant post to IS “+15mm” mount…
Then again it might not work, and by the time you’ve pissed about with all these different adapters it would have been easier and cheaper to just use a 165mm rotor…

Think "made out of paper" might be a bit strong. I've been commuting along canal towpaths for a year on exotic carbon forks and they're ok. I've just started taking them proper off-road actually.

Stu.

Late update of an old thread…

The guys at Carbon Cycles gave me a new set of forks under warranty and I'm really happy with them. I knew I was in a tricky situation as they could have said the crack was down to improper installation so I'm very relieved at this outcome. CC get a big thumbs up from me…

I used a Hope hed doctor second time around to avoid any more drama. 🙄

The weight reduction was massive as those manitous were ridiculously heavy but I did feel the need to buy some Ritchey WCS carbon Rizer bars to help smooth out the bumps. (they don't look too bad, either 8) )

I picked up a set of Superstar forks for my (heavy aluminium) winter bike since I caught the rigid carbon fork bug. The forks are identical apart from the Superstars' crown and dropouts being chrome. I believe a few other companies sell the same forks with their own branding but theirs are a lot more expensive than the CC forks… ❓

😀 Nice one!!!

"I believe a few other companies sell the same forks with their own branding but theirs are a lot more expensive than the CC forks…"

Naming no Nukeproofs 😉

£85 worth of stickers…

I’ve had a set of exotic forks for a couple of months now & have to say I’m very impressed – ride the same trails as I do on the yeti (pace RC41 forks) albeit slower and with more precise lines. I initially did have some issues with star nuts, mainly slipping when tighten – Ended up putting in a Hope Head doctor – Although I did find it a very tight fit
As for breaks – what you really want for the true singlespeed minimalist experience you need to go for V breaks – they make ridding very interesting

As for breaks – what you really want for the true singlespeed minimalist experience you need to go for V breaks – they make ridding very interesting

That would help with the weight reduction, too. Those MPH brakes aren't the lightest of things…