Any reason not to drill the cable guides to run a full length outer cable for the front mech?
All advice appreciated.

Thanks
Ben

the cable boss is an integral part of teh structure of the bike, without it, the welds tend to fold in on themselves, not just breaking the bike (obviously) but also creating a razor sharp edge to the top tube which slices through skin like butter. Apparently the sharpness is part of the construction techique, where they hand roll the tubes in halifax instead of using regulation pipes like generic far eastern companies. This is part of teh allure of a handmade in yorkshire bike.

Interestingly, using a full length gear outer has also been shown to reduce low speed suspension response on technical stone based trails (not applicable in the mud), though with current changes to trail substance at trail centres and popular bridleways this is less of an issue.

Or not, I’m sure its fine, but sometimes shifting suffers a bit, though its less of a problem for front than back.

I did it to fit my gravity dropper cable. Im still alive. Ish.

Surely the reduction in weight will make me ride faster!

Surely the extra cable outer weighs more the missing filings from your cabinet 😉

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/transfil-gear-cable-waterproof-kit/

why don’t you just run a Gore sealed low friction cable and keep the frame as it is?

Drilled mine to 4.5mm(you can then go back to split outers if wanted), a good move in my book. 2 SP4 sealed end caps instead of 4 covers the cost of the extra outer cable (for the STW Tight-wad Brigade), and decent SP41 outer means it runs smoother for longer too, can’t see why they don’t do it in the factory.

Go for it, and fit some cable oilers. I use them and my cable always feels like new.

Cheers Coatesy, exactly what I was thinking.