Looking to replace the springs on my Polestar, and though the rear will be straightforward enough, it seems to remove the spring/damper unit from the front (mcPhearson strut) you are advised to use a special Volvo tool that appears to be a HUGE G-clamp, which compresses the shock unit enought to be able to remove the lower ball joint.

It seems others without this tool has had to either remove the lower sub frame, or have used a linear jack (the type you hold a gearbox with) with the car on a ramp-lift, in order to compress the shock enough to remove the lower ball joint.
See here:

Is there anything stopping me using a spring compressor (AKA Widowmaker) with the shock still on the car, in order to comress the spring i.e mimiking the function of the giant G-clamp?

I’m thinking if I were to compress the whole shock unit, then the ball joint can be lowered off the hub assembly, the hub removed from the shock…and the shock lowered out (still compressed).. and then reversed to reinstall…

DrP

What could possibly go wrong?!?

Have you used spring compressors before?

Make sure you video it – at least that way the TikTok and Insta revenue should cover the bills while you are laid up in hospital! 🙂

having watched that video – that’s the correct and only way to do it.

It’s the same configuration as my older Volvos except the bottom ball joint attachment is slightly different. The complete strut has to be removed because the spring is retained by the top strut bearing/spring retainer.
The spring needs to be compressed enough to undo the top strut bearing retaining nut without it firing into orbit. You need to figure a way of stopping the chromed shock absorber shaft from turning when undoing the nut – on mine is a torx on the end of the shock shaft. There are a few steps missed in that video.

Be careful – I use two different sets of spring compressors in conjunction with a ratchet strap. Stored potential energy can be deadly.

I have used a spring compressor before, albeit back in 1987 trying to replace the lower part of the suspension strut on my old Opel Manta A-series.

It was a nightmare, really really difficult crap job to do and it ended up breaking my mates finger that got trapped. He was lucky it remained on the end of his hand.

We did have this really crap tool, which was something like this in the link (can’t post pics sorry)

Whilst winding them down both the clamps slipped round to the same side of the spring but my mates hand was in the way 😲

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/sealey-ak3841-coil-spring-compressor-2pc-seaak3841?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_qexBhCoARIsAFgBletuyz12sz31AbY3C4maN9E_2_k5Tymsu0Nb8pFK1z9ESeYyuYBZ4PAaAjcEEALw_wcB

Highly recommended not to go with this approach.

do you have room in the wheel arch/suspension turret to get a spring compressor in?

I tried to fit a golf upright with a compressor in place, just to make the assembly shorter to make it easier to drop the shock into the hub, but there wasnt enough room to have them in place.

in the end i manage to use a ratchet strap, but as others have mentioned, it was dodgy as heck!

You can now buy affordable hydraulic spring compressors much like a garage will use  there is. Vevor brand one with two sets of spring holders for about £120 .

The old threaded rod things work but it’s hard work and risky , even with a hydraulic stand up one you really need to pay attention- an impact driver is very useful for loosening top nut you can free it off with the spring under tension usually- saves wrestling with it with the spring compressed and the risk of dislodging it.

Take care it’s one of the most dangerous jobs on a car.

^ there won’t be room and the ‘top’ needs to come off the strut assembly to get the spring off. For the sake of 3nuts (in my case) it’s easy to drop the whole strut out and disassemble on a workbench correctly.

Modding washing machines, awesome ! Just be careful !

Ah the ol widow maker. The only job on my dead beat van that is booked in.

Changed the front struts on your berlingo rnp ?

Many many moons ago I did a complete strut change on my XR2. I had to drop the lower arm to get the strut in and out. I didn’t like the threaded compressors. They just seemed a sketchy way to do it. It was not a fun job. The cheap compressors are hateful things. I didn’t need to compress the springs a huge amount for that job and it still felt really sketchy.

Those large stand up units look ok. They seem to avoid the possibility of the compressor slipping on the spring. You can always flog it on after you’ve done the job.

This one, I’d flat out pay to have someone else do it with proper tools.

I’ve swopped while units for coil overs before, and if course that’s ok cuz you don’t need to compress any springs!

However, on the P2 it appears you need to compress the spring UN SITU in order to even get the shock unit out…

I’ll have to check if there is enough space to actually get the clamps in there with the shock in place…

If I can’t then it’s a non starter anyway!

DrP

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As well as the literal danger of death there’s also a lot of awkwardness with the smaller spring clamps, just getting them in the right place and tightening them with good fitment in the car can be really difficult. And that’s a bigger problem than it sounds because people get frustrated, they tighten them unevenly, they fit them less well or at bad angles and it all just makes the whole thing incredibly dodgy.

The main issue is, that I probably didn’t make obvious in the OP, is that in order to even remove the shock assembly, the unit needs to be compressed. This is because it seems that unless the shock is compressed, you can’t remove the lower ball joint and slide the hub assembly off the shock…

So I need a way of compressing the shock whilst it’s in the car…

Heck, I guess once I’ve done that and got the shock out completely, I could even take the whole assembly to a local garage to do the dangerous bit (i.e take the top cap off and actually swop the springs)..

I guess, until the top cap is off and the spring is au-naturel, there’s probably not much that could kill me whilst the spring is contained on the shock…

Probably…

DrP

Why do you want/need to remove the springs?!

Why do you want/need to remove the springs?!

Because he’s a boy racer and wants his car slammed

Those large stand up units look ok. They seem to avoid the possibility of the compressor slipping on the spring. You can always flog it on after you’ve done the job.

All good an well till you need the springs compressed to get the unit off the car.

You get remote hydraulic compressor that look good but I’ve had no concerns with the threaded bar type I’ve used for 10 years. Just approach with respect and awareness. If you can’t do that hand it over to professionals.

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcShxmsuZ7cdIgWI_DaqUwt0lhmS1qMs2Cp-p_B2tL-lpHxboIaWM1LTBiwXKKIMcNc78XfXeJciK3PzGtxgFb15K0JQ-MrjiWokUaPWc0KQhPeskI9dRakE

More likely to see those in a garage in this age.

But the polestar is one of the harshest cars I’ve driven  ever. Beats me why you’d want to make it harsher

@DrP

Undo and remove the stub axle/CV fastener. Disconnect the lower ball joint and pull the control arm downwards, the shock and hub will now pull towards you, remove the top strut bearing to body shell fasteners and remove the whole assembly. Or disconnect the inner control arm fasteners from body shell.

It’s a lot of faff for extra MaccyD’s carpark kudos

Disconnect the lower ball joint and pull the control arm downwards, the shock and hub will now pull towards you, remove the top strut bearing to body shell fasteners and remove the whole assembly.

Honestly..from what I’ve read online, seen on YT, and asked about, you simply can’t do this without compressing the shock!

I know it sounds daft…and I’ve done similar with EASE on other cars… But it appears you can’t lower the control arm with the shock in normal extended mode!

Hence the need for the giant Volvo G clamp!

And why…..?

If anything… I’m just 2 fast and 2 furious!

DrP

I had to replace the top mount on a strut recently. Didn’t do it in situ but did use these compressors. They have a safety pin that would stop them sliding off catastrophically. I reckon you’d be able to use them with the shock on the car.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0836F8LCF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Remind me not to accept a lift from DrP. I can’t afford the dentist fees.

So reviews all mentioned the standard P2 being v harsh…

That’s FAR from my experience….!

Also…the new springs I’ve got (eibach) seem to be a 30mm drop, but are progressive… So meant to be softer at the initial… But still not bottom out ..

DrP

I’ll do most jobs on a car, but I won’t touch spring compressors.

When I took my Scoobie to a garage to fit new front shocks, I mentioned this fact… the guy pointed to a small hole in the (very high ceiling) more-or-less above their hydraulic spring compressor machine and told me he didn’t blame me at all!

Won’t the clever suspension etc complain about being lowered ? – I’ve no idea on these 1800 spin washing machines.

The trick is to use 3 (or ideally 4) at a time equally spaced around the spring, and wind them up alternately a tiny bit at a time to keep the pressure even.

And only compress the spring just enough to do what you need.

Decompress it the same way when off the vehicle… As in keep the compressor clamps on but take 95% of the tension out. Recompress to refit.

Also be very careful and gentle where you point it when off the car.. Treat it like a loaded (and faulty) gun.

If you are very methodical about it, it’s not a problem.

@DrP

I think I’ll stick with my old Gothenburg era Volvo’s!

The ones I use are simmilar to this.. but I don’t use them in pairs, I use 3 or 4 at a time so theres less chance of the spring bowing or flexing to one side if you tighten up one a bit more than the other, which you shouldn’t ever do, but just in case..

CT0917 – 2pc Coil Spring Compressor

Compressing the springs (and technically the whole damper unit) whilst still on the car is completely normal, and exactly how you remove the front suspension on most macpherson strut style cars. Not sure what all the fuss is about. Yes, Spring compressors can be dangerous but so is jacking your car up.

Use the right precautions, be methodical and safe… Its fine.

The trick is to use 3 (or ideally 4) at a time equally spaced around the spring, and wind them up alternately a tiny bit at a time to keep the pressure even.

What exactly do you drive with wheel wells that can fit 4 spring compressors ?  Bob Chandler’s big foot?

Compressing the springs (and technically the whole damper unit) whilst still on the car is completely normal, and exactly how you remove the front suspension on most macpherson strut style cars.

That’s news to me. I’ve always removed the strut with the spring still on. Would be a huge PITA to do otherwise.

I do know of a time rich, cash poor 17yr old (honest) who did in fact manage to fit some budget apex lowering spring to the front of their Ford Escort by pinching bags and bags of zip ties from work and then spending hours loopping dozens and dozens (hundreds maybe) round the coils and ‘zipping’ them tighter one click at a time.

If you think a loose strut rolling around on the floor with two Machine Mart threaded bars is as scary as a hand grenade without its pin, imagine if they were made of nylon…

What exactly do you drive with wheel wells that can fit 4 spring compressors ?

Toyota land cruiser… heheh, nah just kidding, I already own a dog.

The ones I linked too are only small, once you’ve put two on just tight enough to be able to rotate the spring, you can rotate the spring and fit the other 2.

Or if not enough clearence, just use 3…spaced appropriatley of course.

Or if there’s really no clearence, just fit 2 (opposite each other) until you can remove the whole shock assembly off the car, and then quickly put another two on for extra safety. Dont be dropping it or chucking it around, obviously!

bags and bags of zip ties

Flippin ‘eck..DO NOT DO THIS!!!!! hahah!

“Take care it’s one of the most dangerous jobs on a car.”

It’s the only job I won’t even consider tackling on my car after having a very near miss back in 2011.

Was changing the cracked front springs on my Fiesta (they’d last 2-3 years at most) and was using a brand new set of ‘Widowmakers’ that I’d bought from the local Motor Factors, Sealey branded. As I was doing the final compression on one it snapped at the top jaw, causing the spring to twist and snap sending a bit of it flying down the full length of my 2 car long garage. On it’s way it snagged the top of my hand and knocked my glasses clean off. While snagging my hand it managed to rip out a big vein, tear a flap of skin off and put a small nick in the tendon of my index finger. Took me a few seconds to find my glasses and then as I was putting them on I noticed the blood oozing from my hand! Cue a quick drive to the local A&E 6 miles away and straight in to get the blood flow stopped. I’d had my hand in a cloth and a small jug, it measured nearly half a pint in the jug plus whatever the cloth absorbed by the time they stopped the flow. Apparently I was incredibly lucky the tendon survived and that the vein tore rather than ripped out a length of it as that’s harder to fix quickly. While the nurse was getting ready to stitch the wound up I told him what exactly had happened, fleshing out the basic ‘working on my car’ info I’d given while they were stopping me bleeding. He stopped his needlework, stared at me for a second then said ‘Buy a lottery ticket, you’ve got luck on your side right now.” He’d been a nurse for over decade and in that time he’d seen a few terrible injuries from doing the same job on cars, professionals and amateurs like me, including one death from bleeding out when the artery had been punctured.

I’ve never touched a spring on a coilover since. In fact my current car is having new shocks and top mounts tomorrow and I’m more than happy to pay the £400 to the garage than risk another accident.

Sealey branded

Same Chinese crap available on eBay at half the price without the sticker.

Sealey is not a trusted brand.

To illustrate how much energy is stored in a spring, the British used a spring powered “r”pg in WW 2. I think it could lob the grenade over 100m from memory.

You need to figure a way of stopping the chromed shock absorber shaft from turning when undoing the nut – on mine is a torx on the end of the shock shaft. There are a few steps missed in that video.

I used to have a special smart car tool for this, it was 2 pieces of aluminium that you bolted togeather on the shaft which had a shape that you could put a silly large spanner on which then allowed you to undo the nut.

My old monde used to break springs fa periodically so I too have played with spring compressors to put the new one on….even with 2 sets on the spring it was scary as.  Done it once,  ticked that box,  shan’t ever again.

Getting the top of the strut undone on the mondeo needed an offset ring spanner and a 12mm Allen key through that to hold the shaft.