Has any built their own Festool MFT Style workbench, suited to using a track saw?

You can buy pre-drilled tops, e.g. https://www.cncdesign.co.uk/replacement-perforated-festool-type-mft3lp-top.html

I think for the money buying a pre-drilled top would be better value and save a lot of potential headaches, unless you own a CNC drill/router.

The supporting frame could be wood (not sure what the extruded metal framing system is called though either?)

I bought an MFT because I needed it at short notice for a renovation, but to build one wouldn’t be too difficult. I’m planning to make a folding MFT table for my SYS-CART to have a more mobile solution.

Once you’ve bought one of those templates, you can use that to make another top to use as a template with a 20mm forstner bit and a couple of long dogs.

Dogs can also been used to make 45 and 90 degree cuts – despite having the mitre bit, I use it for 90 degree cuts 99% of the time.

Axminster make a profile that will accommodate clamps which I’m going to use for my Cart which I think work together… https://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technology-universal-t-track-ax889077?sel=502716 and https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-clamps-quick-action-guide-rail-clamp-105258

Will be making one soon.
Peter Millard recommends an ali extrusion for the rails from a company called ooznest, compatible with fencedogs.

check out a guy called matt estlea on youtube, hes just made a work table as you describe step by step.

I have to say, I made a cross-cut jig for my track saw and it was more pain than it was worth.
All you need to do is be able to draw accurate lines and the track saw takes care of the rest.
Just put your wood on sacrificial material.

That said, a MFT is useful for a load of other things, I’m just not sure about the track saw aspect.

For another take on workbenches, I recommend looking at Ron Paulk’s ideas here:
https://www.youtube.com/user/crpaulk/videos

I have to say, I made a cross-cut jig for my track saw and it was more pain than it was worth.

Really? I’m surprised at that. If you’re cutting multiple pieces to the same size then it seems it would be very useful. Set a stop using the first piece then butt up to that for subsequent pieces

You can get a set from Axminster that’ll let you create your own with just a drill (uses lots of guides and jigs). Costs about 150 quid IIRC – the Parf system I think.

I like the look of the parf guide system as I’m building an mft style workbench at the moment and I don’t want it the standard mft size.

£150 is very steep for something I’ll use one every few years though.

Really? I’m surprised at that.

Yes, I was too. Thought it would be invaluable. It just didn’t prove to be. A combination of not needing repeat cuts as often as I thought, and finding that the accuracy, speed and predictability of cutting to pencil lines was amazing.

you can buy a top or table from RS cnc designs for a very modest sum compared with the official version.
They also sell a £35 jig/template, for your custom size thing.
there is a folding mft table in plan form from a youtube guy as well.

I got the RS , and then used the UKJ base from Axminster – I was in a hurry
that was about £150 all together you only need trestle to put it on. (the UKJ tops are too expensive for me)

However having the track on a hinge is what would be really nice so that is next plan , it will be bolting some T track and fabricating a hinge .
Its very possible to do and all the bits are available .

The CNC Designs Spruce ply workbench is at a very tempting price, £128 including the dogs and delivery.

That said, a MFT is useful for a load of other things, I’m just not sure about the track saw aspect.

This setup is exactly what I had in mind for an MFT and tracksaw:

Well it seems people do like that setup, but it’s what I originally had in mind too until I realised I was quicker with just 2 pencil marks and slapping the track anywhere on the table.
YMMV

Do people consider the MFT tops as a consumable? I’ve seen people online with cuts into theirs and then even using the saw kerf to line up cuts.

I think using a scrap board underneath when cutting through would be my preference though.

If I’m doing a big job or precise work I’ll use a sacrificial piece as a tabletop. Never felt the need for one of these MFTs though. Its easy enough to screw blocks into the sacrificial piece if I need end stops. I just put a sheet of 8×4 (or a smaller bit for small jobs) on some trestles.

I’ve been making wardrobes for a few years using primarily a tracksaw.

I started with marking pencil marks on boards to cut a square line, progressed through self-made jigs until I’ve settled on the perfect setup for me. I’ve got a tiny workshop which doesn’t have room for a fixed bench and I also like to work outside when the sun shines, and take my kit on site (i.e. somebody’s bedroom) when circumstances dictate.

The basics are:

2 sets of plastic sawhorses. One of them is a Stanley set which has notches in the top to fix 2 pieces of CLS.

2 long pieces (2.4m) of CLS, 2 short pieces of CLS.

An MFT top from Benchdogs and a set of dogs

A pair of UJK Technology Parf Dog Rail Clips from Axminster which keep the rail butted up against the dogs.

A self made fence (a piece of 90mm MDF with a 1m aluminium rule screwed to it)

This way I can support a 2800mm x 600mm board, trim both ends, make accurate, clean square cuts every time. When I need to make 7 480mm shelves, I just clamp a stop against the 480mm mark on the fence and lo and behold, I’ve got a production line going.

Naturally I’ve made additions to the setup, so I can clamp a board vertically if I need to use my plunge router, and so I can set my Kreg Foreman Pocket-Hole Machine in the run and still support 2400mm panels as I drill the holes along the length.

I keep looking at “better” alternatives but I can achieve speed, accuracy and flexibility here at minimal cost.

And I don’t use a sacrificial base, I’ve got 1 shallow groove at right angles (acts as a splinter guard) one at 45 degrees, and if I cut a bevel, I just move the dogs to a different position to protect the top.