Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 46 total)
  • BMW E90/E91 Owners
  • solamanda
    Free Member

    I’ve browsed the usual bimmer forums but wondering if the STW masses have some ownership experience of any issues or ‘must have’ accessories to look out for on a used 3 series touring.

    I’m looking for a 330D, probably Automatic in the next couple of months. Looks like this model is quite reliable and doesn’t suffer the 2L Diesel engine issues.

    porlus
    Free Member

    Drive a 320D ed model myself. Had it a couple of months and love it so far. Not fussed about the timing chain issues as I think this is BMWs most popular engine, so any failures will be more documented due to the vast numbers of them out there.
    Previous cars have been either two E87 118ds (same engine as mine I think) and E46 320d coupe and an F20 116i. No engine troubles with any of them, and for handling the E90 has been the best so far. Its on 16″ wheels so pretty plush. The E46 was Msport spec, so due to the 18″ wheels and stiff suspension it was a chore at times.
    An E90/91 330d would be a lovely car to drive.

    DaveyBoyWonder
    Free Member

    If you want more info on the car itself, I recently started this thread on PH: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=72&t=1360065&mid=180094&nmt=BMW+Newbie+-+Advice+Wanted+re%2E+E91+Tourings

    More about the car rather than the engine. From what I’ve read, the 330D is an awesome engine and it was up there with the 330I but for our annual mileage, the petrol will be better…

    andysredmini
    Free Member

    We have a 2005 320d e90 which has overall been a good car. We have had a few problems which are fairly common including the SQUIB? (steering wheel input control thing in the steering column £800 fix. The turbo blew at 100k £1300 fix. A wire on the boot lid loom snapped due to opening and closing the boot and took the foot well control module out with it. luckily the wire just needed fixing and the foot well control module just needed resetting by the garage. The passenger window motor has burned out but I think that was the wife trying to open it when it was iced shut.
    Doesn’t sound like such a good car when you list its problems.
    Obviously not the same engine but the other problems are applicable.
    Andy

    solamanda
    Free Member

    I’ll be doing approx 15k a year but the minimum length journey will be 25 miles usually and have another car/motorbike for short journeys. So I think the diesel is worth having.

    AndyDuke
    Free Member

    Solamanda – I can’t comment on ownership of a 330D but my boss has one in manual and m sport trim which I’ve managed to trim on a couple of occasions, its a very high miler (150k+ I think) but it’s still lovely to drive and hasn’t really put a foot wrong.

    Slight high-jack; ok, it’s not a 330, nor is it an auto, but just in case you might be persuaded mine has to go:

    Link

    porlus
    Free Member

    Nice looking that Andy

    Going to get my 320 remapped sometime next year. Tuner states he can get it to around 215bhp. Not bad for a car thats £20 per annum for VED.

    AndyDuke
    Free Member

    porlus – the remap sounds great, something that was definitely on my list, however I’m moving to Canada and the car can’t come with me. I’ve only had it around 6-7 months, so will be gutted to see it go, but really do need it shifting!

    maxtorque
    Full Member

    What’s your budget? For resale, spec is everything on a 330d, and if you can stretch to an LCI model, then proNav, Heated seats, Zenons, and front park sensors are good options to look for.

    The E90/1 uses the old 6spd autobox, which is generally smooth, but fuel economy is quite a way short of a well driven manual version (which are almost impossible to find)

    I put 160k on my E46 330d, which just needed a turbo and clutch at about 130k (used it to tow my rally car around the uk a lot) and now i’m 30k miles into a E91 335d (i wanted a manual 330d tourer, but couldn’t find one in the right spec)

    If your budget is top end, it is well worth considering the new model, the F30, where the engine now gets the 8spd auto (brilliant) and a far far nicer interior spec/look than the E90 cars (where the interior imo, is rather dull and lets the rest of the car down)

    Performance on all models of 330d is strong, but they don’t feel at all fast as they are totally linear / quiet in their delivery. I recommend setting the speed warning “Bong” to 99mph, as on the mway, a driving ban is just toe flex away if you’re already doing 80…….

    maxtorque
    Full Member

    Oh, and to add, Personally i wouldn’t recommend a remap. Although the engines are easily capable of a higher output, the transmissions and rest of the car aren’t (330d is already knocking out ~550Nm!) and if you plan to keep the car for any length of time, that could come back to bite you!

    (also, it ain’t like they are slow as std, and mapped cars are on iffy ground come resale time etc)

    maxtorque
    Full Member

    And finally, for bike useage with the tourer, make sure you get the genuine loadliner accessory to protect the boot, and also consider the upper bumper cover “stick on protection strip” as the painted top surface of the rear bumper is vulnerable to pedal attacks when loading your bike (don’t ask me how i know this ;-(

    solamanda
    Free Member

    Thanks for the feedback Andy. Also unfortunately a touring model is also a requirement! Good to hear it’s still going strong at 150k.

    My budget is partly dependent on completing on a house in the next 2 months but looking at 10-13k. This just about stretches to a decent spec LCI model with about 80k on the clock. I’ve seen some tempting non-LCI cars with under 45k on the clock for that price so I’ll make my decision on condition as I’m aware low mileage doesn’t always equal less wear.

    This is going to be by in far the most I’ve spend on a car, my previous most expensive being a £1500 vectra… I intend to keep this car for around 100k so want to make sure I get the spec I’ll want to keep, including the USB input and memory seats. Sounds like the panoramic sunroofs can cause trouble and I have no desire for one.

    I was put off the light leather coloured seats combined with mountain bikers but it sounds like they are quite hard wearing?

    I’ve read that the Auto on a 330d gets pretty close economy to the manual? One of the reasons for going for an Auto is more reliable, especially when I intend to get it chipped to around 280bhp… I’ll be happy if it can average 45mpg on a run without being ragged.

    solamanda
    Free Member

    Just saw your reply after writing this ^. If I got it remapped I would drive appropriately and not rag it everywhere to then cause the rest of the drive train to fail.

    I will be getting a tow bar fitted and using a rack. I’ll rarely put a bike inside.

    maxtorque
    Full Member

    solamanda
    If I got it remapped I would drive appropriately and not rag it everywhere to then cause the rest of the drive train to fail.

    Why get it remapped then? The only point of a remap is to get more power. If you don’t use that power to protect the drive train, then why bother?

    I would suggest driving the std car for a bit first, tbh, it’s quite fast enough as std (get a 335 if it ain’t) as a few extra bhp make no difference to any real journey times, and it ain’t exactly a “trackday” car now is it!

    What most people forget is that a mapped 330d is still not an M3……. 😉

    solamanda
    Free Member

    I would drive it standard for a while. For me the advantage of a remap would be for those occasional overtakes on a country lane or an alpine pass with a fully loaded car than for thrills. I have a 150bhp motorbike to vent my speed desires.

    Don’t want a 335D as the running costs are much higher (brakes/tyres/winter tyres) with more turbos to keep running happy and the cost to fit a tow bar is eye watering with the dual exhausts at the rear!

    maxtorque
    Full Member

    I find the only extra cost on my 335d is slightly lower fuel economy (because it’s more powerful, when you welly it, it uses more fuel).

    Tow bar fitment is identical (335d just has extra exhaust hanger bracket (comes for “free” in genuine OEM kit) If you car hasn’t got the OEM tow bar wiring installed as a factory option, fitting the loom properly (using the OEM one, rather than an aftermarket bodge loom and ecu) is a 4hr labour job!

    Brakes are identical, tyres are identical, extra turbo makes no difference as only one turbo works are once, so load/wear is shared across the two.

    Remap doesn’t improve the performance enough to turn a “not on” overtake into an “on” one! Remap only knocks a couple of tenths off the 0-62 time. I drove a new F30 330d (245bhp) against my E91 335d (296bhp) and, tbh, there is so little difference in performance it makes no difference in the real world. (335d feels a little more powerful/free-er to rev above 4000rpm, but the difference is marginal)

    Both the 330d and 335d are epic real world overtakers because they slam over 500Nm of torque onto the road from 1500rpm! 😉

    andysredmini
    Free Member

    One thing I forgot to mention on my earlier post is about how easy some e90’s /e91’s are to steal (I’m not a car thief).
    Ours was taken from our drive a few months ago. There is a key cloning security flaw that enables the thief to open the car and drive away almost as easy as if they had the original key. BMW have addressed the problem on newer models and some can have the software updated but some cars built during a certain period cant be upgraded so remain vulnerable.
    I was told by the police it takes them about 30 seconds and that is so common at the moment the police have set up a dedicated task force for it.

    Ours was found 2 streets away undamaged but needed the locks changing for insurance purposes. annoyingly ours isn’t upgradable so it could happen again tomorrow.

    There are many pages of info on the web including this one.
    http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=610400

    Andy

    maxtorque
    Full Member

    However, all you need to do to prevent the cloning loop hole is undo 2 self tapping screws and zip tie the J1982 OBD port plug up behind the dash. That prevents the thieves from being able to plug in their clone tool.

    pjm84
    Free Member

    One thing I forgot to mention on my earlier post is about how easy some e90’s /e91’s are to steal (I’m not a car thief).
    Ours was taken from our drive a few months ago. There is a key cloning security flaw that enables the thief to open the car and drive away almost as easy as if they had the original key. BMW have addressed the problem on newer models and some can have the software updated but some cars built during a certain period cant be upgraded so remain vulnerable.
    I was told by the police it takes them about 30 seconds and that is so common at the moment the police have set up a dedicated task force for it.

    Ours was found 2 streets away undamaged but needed the locks changing for insurance purposes. annoyingly ours isn’t upgradable so it could happen again tomorrow.

    Snap – even though the newer models have the upgrade it still doesn’t stop the ££$££%%£%^£ from trying in the first place as they know a flaw exists.

    There is also a little window issue which can be resolved with the upgrade (not done on ours hence the water damage) which would be must if possible.

    Currently considering an additional alarm system to cover this BMW **** up once the vehicle is repaired and prior to return.

    JonEdwards
    Free Member

    Hi David….

    I’ve got an early E91 320d. Currently on 130k. I had it remapped not long after buying it and it’s been trouble free ever since.

    Must haves:-
    Xenons. The stock halogen headlights are pants.
    Professional (or above) stereo with the Alpine speaker upgrade. The
    standard speakers are very poor.
    A boot liner – mine is from Hatchbags and seems to be lasting pretty well.

    Issues:-
    Runflat tyres. Get shot of them PDQ. And budget for winter tyres/wheels. The ride still isn’t super comfortable, but it’s “sporting” rather than “awful”
    The key cloning issue – I’ve just moved the OBC connector some where a little less obvious. Might leave me with a broken window, but it’s not going to be a 30 sec job to nick the entire car.
    Economy isn’t quite as good as it’s claimed to be. Having changed the thermostats and with the remap I get about 45mpg on most driving, but it drops horrifically when stuck in stopstart traffic. Not very thirsty when cruising at autobahn speeds though!

    Although I’d like a 330d, I’d struggle to justify one over the performance on offer from my 200bhp-ish 2.0. It’s rare I actually get to bury the throttle for any period of time – maybe only a second or two when overtaking, but the remap has been worth it in terms of extra torque/driveability, and economy when not caning it. Mine’s the older engine, so no timing chain problems, and no dpf to go wrong either.

    So far it’s been the best driving, most reliable car I’ve owned. Would happily have another!

    We bought a 55 reg 330d Msport tourer two years ago that only had 29k on the clock as my wife’s commuter / family car, and I borrow it at every opportunity 🙂

    The Msport spec is pretty good, and with full leather, Xenons, Idrive (ok once you get used to it!), built in sat nav etc, its a very comfortable car to cover long distances in.

    It hasn’t put a foot wrong, has sailed through its MOT’s, returns 40mpg and was perfect for long bike trips to Italy, Scotland etc, comfortably carrying 3 bikes on the roof.

    The only downside is the boot isn’t massive, and of course the usual caveats about snow. I made the decision that I’d prefer to have a car that drove well for 364 days a year, and was left at home the day we get snow…

    I know that remapping the 2.0 4 cylinder diesel engines can provide great performance, but IMO nothing can compare to the torque of the 6 cylinder engines. Shame you can’t get a 335d in manual as I’d get one tomorrow!

    As it happens, ours may be for sale in a month if my wife’s gets a new job that comes with a car. Drop me a line if you are interested even though its not an auto.

    220si
    Free Member

    I had an e91 330d auto M Sport for 2 years. Fantastic car and changed due to my new job.

    As an overtaker, it was great.

    Took a little to get going so not exactly GTi – ish but once up to speed it was pretty rapid.

    Handling is good for a larger car and my steering was very direct albeit slightly heavy but you knew exactly what it was doing.

    Engine is pretty bulletproof bar the breathers can get gunked up. It’s chain driven and the inlet is supposedly better than the 320d with minimal reported failures.

    Pre LCi engines are 231bhp but generally rumoured to be very healthy. Only issues are DPF and making sure you do the mileage to regen.

    Watch auto sumps for weeping as they can warp from heat due to being plastic. Aside that the are generally reliable but a oil change can do wonders for shifting even though BM says it’s for life.

    I never had a problem doing 140 miles daily.

    Did 60k in 2 years with No problems.

    I generally got 40mpg but around town it can plummet to mid 20’s with Motorway runs at 45-50mpg at sensible speeds.

    Hope this helps

    renton
    Free Member

    My mate has a 335d and to be honest it’s the fastest thing I’ve ever been in!!! However it’s not that good on fuel and it’s crap in the ice or snow!

    solamanda
    Free Member

    Thanks for all the information. Looks like I’ll be going for a pre-lci so I can get something with all the toys. There are a few LCI cars inside my budget but they are poverty spec.

    mindmap3
    Free Member

    Not quite the same, but we have an E90 330 M Sport and it’s been pretty good so far. I like the auto box, it suits the car pretty well and works just fine. In sport mode it’s very keen to kick down and will hold on to the revs until the red line.fuel is pretty good; 25 round town and low 30’s on a motorway run / fast country lanes. It’s worth it for the noise!

    Run flat tyres are bloody expensive for the 18’s. Two new rears were £392 delivered plus fitting but we saved quite a bit on this because we had them fitted when we had the wheels refurbed. Black Circles wanted £470 to supply and fit Bridgestone’s. The ride isn’t too bad with them, although next time I’ll fit normal tyres. I didn’t this time because the fronts are pretty much new.

    We’ve had two issues with ours so far; a leaky fuel tank vent pipe (very common on early cars and expensive to fix) and an issue with the VANOS system that was causing the emissions light to come on. It’s all good now though. It sailed through its MOT. The vent pipe is only a apparent when the tank is full; the rear of the car will smell like fuel.

    BMW’s are really sensitive to wheel alignment so check for uneven tyre wear and factor in the cost of a proper alignment at around £100 or so. From what I understand, they’re a pain to align and need to be weighted correctly. My local (.and very good indy) insists on a full tank of fuel. Run flats are also probe to dodgy wear even with good alignment.

    Turbo’s are a common issue on BM’s so listen out for rattles etc. The pre -LCI cars are generally considered more reliable than later cars due to the changes to fuel pumps, injectors and coil packs that were key in the later cars having more power, lower emissions and better fuel economy. These are common faults and are expensive to fix.

    The good news is that the E9x doesn’t eat suspension components like the E46 and the cooling system is better although dodgy thermostats will mean poor economy. They also seem to be better protected against rust. Wheels are prone to cracking especially the 19’s but the 18’s aren’t immune and often buckle.

    Ours is a pre-LCI and is a reasonable spec but is missing xenon’s which seem quite rare on earlier cars and nav which is pretty dated. I like the lighter leather because it lifts the interior which is pretty drab if it’s all black. The sun roof makes a huge difference too. Ours has worn pretty well despite the previous owner having a kid and is my favourite combo of Le Mans blue and Dakota lemon yellow. The Le Mans blue is great but shows up every mark.

    The sport seats in my opinion are great; I can get very comfy in them and drive a long way and feel totally fresh at the other end.

    wurzelcube
    Free Member

    I wouldn’t get too hung up on the toys – but I guess it depends on your needs (rather than wants) I’ve got an Lci with media package (pro nav and I drive) an not a lot else… I find it more than meets my needs.

    One point to consider is that the loci models have the revised idrive (with built in HDD) – it’s a lot better than the earlier offerings

    wurzelcube
    Free Member

    solamanda
    Free Member

    Update – I ended up striking lucky and found a clean 1 owner 335D M-Sport in Blue with 59k on the clock inside my budget (just!) being sold privately locally.

    It’s bloody lovely! Very happy.

    maxtorque
    Full Member

    Nice one! Top cars the 35d’s 😉 Great car for the “real world” tbh, just about excellent at everything.

    flange
    Free Member

    My black 335d is for sale within your budget..

    KingofBiscuits
    Free Member

    Oooooo nice. Currently own an 08 E91320d M Sport. Love it to bits but it’s been a frustrating car. We bought it a year ago with 66k on the clock. It’s now got 73k. We don’t do that many miles.

    A few things. Juddery clutch. We’ve had the clutch replaced under warranty but it still seems to do it still in cold weather. So I’m going to take it back at some point.

    The switch in the glass hatch went and it was a right PITA. It would pop open every time the car was unlocked. Sorted for £85

    A light management ECU? situated in the passenger footwell needed replacing. Again under warranty.

    There’s also an irritating noise located somewhere in the dash. I think @ 2k rpm. Again I need to get this sorted. Although intermittent irritating noises are not easy to resolve.

    I’d have another though. Great car to drive. Spacious and comfortable enough for me and the small family. Quick. Economical. Easy enough to load the bike in and out.

    Dealer service is costly though. Although you are treated like royalty. Parts are costly. Two new rear 17″ tyres £380.

    When I’d say I’d have another, it would have to be a 330d. Unfortunately they’re like rocking horse poo.

    peterfile
    Free Member

    tell me about your car please flange. interested.

    went for a shot in a 335i touring very recently and i’m in love. That noise 😯 I honestly didn’t know that a regular BMW could sound that good (save for Ms) Would take a heck of a bargain on a 335d to sway me.

    solamanda
    Free Member

    The sound of a 335D is pretty good for a diesel, at full chat you’d have no idea it’s disesal.

    peterfile
    Free Member

    oh aye, don’t get me wrong, the 335d is incredible.

    But…the 335i is just bonkers!

    Also, the likelihood of me finding a 335i in the spec i want is unlikely, but 335d are more plentiful, so will probably end up with the 335d i’d imagine.

    [video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSGlafaLHYs[/video]

    flange
    Free Member

    89k in black, black leather on a ’07 plate. Full s/h, not mapped, nav, heated seats. Just had gearbox oil done plus rear pads. 10 months mot, 4 months tax (I think). It’s a saloon but can supply with Thule roof bars. It’s cheap, I just don’t use it any more and have a hankering for another rs4.

    Fitted with 18 inch bbs wheels on normal tyres as the original 19’s on run flats were horrid to drive about on.

    Wheels have since been changed, currently doesn’t have the roof bars on it

    peterfile
    Free Member

    Update – I ended up striking lucky and found a clean 1 owner 335D M-Sport in Blue with 59k on the clock inside my budget (just!) being sold privately locally.

    It’s bloody lovely! Very happy.

    what year is it?

    Mr PF used to work for BMW…have a look at their insured warranty. For a 335d it will cost you about £45 per month including recovery. But, the trick is to get on a monthly plan asap, since the price tends to shoot up once you’re above a certain point (I actually think it’s about 60k!). But on a monthly, there is no annual renewal, so technically you could get away with paying the lower premium for a lot longer. There are obviously some restrictions (like having to service at franchised dealers), but if you’re at all concerned then it probably offers the most peace of mind. I can’t speak for all dealers, but BMW seem to treat people with the insured warranty plans with the same level of service as if you’d come in with a brand new car with a problem (that’s coming from someone who used to work in the service department). There are more exclusions from the policy though. Worth a look.

    solamanda
    Free Member

    It’s 2006. I did consider a warranty policy from another provider which also included wear and tear for a similar price but I think I’ll chance it. It does need an MOT soon’ish and one of the exclusion was for MOT fails if it needs an MOT within 90 days so that removes alot of the value.

    Hopefully I won’t live to regret it but from having had a proper look around it after collecting it, I have good confidence in the vehicle for the next years driving and wouldn’t want a policy for longer than that.

    It is in better condition than a relatives 2 year old car!

    mssansserif
    Free Member

    I’ve got a 57 plate 335d coupe with about 105000 miles on it. All I’ve had to do for te past 2..5 yeas is service it and put brakes/tyres on it.

    Touch wood but they seem pretty reliable.

    Plus the engine is pretty awesome. Enjoy

    burnsybhoy
    Free Member

    Why am I now looking on Autotrader at these?

    Inbred456
    Free Member

    This thread is dangerous. I thought the Vrs was plenty fast enough but I’m a bit underwhelmed by the handling. Now I’m finding myself looking for 330 petrol Tourers. Must resist!!!!

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