As above?

Recently bodged up a 1×9 to get an old bike running while another was in the bike hospital.

Turns out 1×9 is absolutely fine.

What he says^^^. I have a 34 front as it’s on my commuter and I know exactly what hills I will be riding up.

Just swapped out from 1×9 to 1×10 this week. (32f 36/12r)

Only reason was I needed a new rear mech, cassette and chain for a trip next week, plus bought a new mech as a spare. Found a good priced 2nd shifter, mech and cassette on the classifieds and then bought a new mech anyway.

Worked out at just over £100, so a no brainer

2×9 on my nearly-finished bike. I haven’t actually ridden it yet, but I know I’ll be fine. I never, ever use the granny on my other 3×9 bikes. I’m that awesum.. 😆

Pondering simply removing bits from the Patriot.. just cos, really. I guess I have nothing to lose 🙂

Can you tell I’m a bit bored today?

Do you have problems with chain retention at either end of the cassette without a front mech?

Do you have problems with chain retention at either end of the cassette without a front mech?

Not really. I wasn’t running a clutch mech (don’t think 9sp range even has one)but did run a 10sp chain and a NW on the front.

Once the chain or NW starts to wear, then yes, it will come off on really rocky and rough stuff but not all the time. same as 1×10, 1×11 I guess

Still got 1×9 on my bouncy bike. 12-36 Shimano cassette. As long as you use a single speed chain ring (if you’re cheap) or a narrow/wide (if you’re posh) the chain should stay on ok. That said, I personally do use a chain device.

Pondering simply removing bits from the Patriot.. just cos, really. I guess I have nothing to lose

Go for a ride and only use the middle ring, if this works remove the others?

I use a chain device with 1×9 to make up for the lack of clutch. For a tiny amount of weight, you’ve got peace of mind and can use cheaper, and more durable steel singlespeed chainrings instead of NWs.

I use 1×9 on the xc race bike. I use a single speed front chainring (on one stainless) and have done the rear mech spring tension mod. Works great!

I’m using a superstar ring with no device on a full sus. It never comes off.

I went from 3×9 to 2×9 to 1×9 and it was fine. Once the 9 speed gear was quite worn I shifted it to spare bike (with baby seat) that I was building up and went to 1×10 which gives a little bit more range plus clutch mechs.

yep. I am happily luddite.

i use a chain device on my HT and a front mech (gasp!) on my FS.

chain came off teh other day on the fs but thats the first time in yonks. i tried to use the frnt mech for the first time in yonks. serves me right.

I run 1×9 on my hardtail 26er with a 36t up front. I only really use it for the local woods or going to the pub as it is really a spare.

I find it good for getting me out of the saddle, making me work harder and doesn’t collect as much mud.

I have a full 1×10 set up with one up expander kit ready to go on once its worn out though.

Tyred Jr does.

32T chainring (normal, not N/W), 12-36 cassette, medium cage mech. Superstar chain device, all runs beautifully.

Go for a ride and only use the middle ring

The big ring and front mech could hide any chain issues.

Although tbh it’s not that hard to remove the mech and rings, so I might as well just try it.

For chain retention I use an MRP top only that fits into the BB and replaces one of the spacers.
I have no idea what it would be like without it as it has always been on there.
One this I did find, when on the rare occasion the chain did drop it took a lot of effort and time to un wedge the chain from the device.

1×8 here…not died yet.

I used to have an old Scott G Zero, that I used with 1×9. I just took the mech and inner and outer rings off (it was an old clunker so I didn’t want to spend anything on it).

It was fine most of the time, but could occasionally drop the chain if the going got rough.

Yep 1×9 with

32t Oval Narrow wide
XTR 11-34 cassette
X0 9 Sp shifter
Zee clutch rear mech
4-5mm spacer to make Zee work

It’s brilliant, is quiet, the chain doesn’t come off even on DH stuff and cost me very little – why would I want/need more gears? I could add a 40T bail out cog but if it’s that steep, I’ll just get off and push, it’s just as quick. This industry is daft. Planned obsolescence 😆

Tried running 1 x 9 for a while but the chain dropped all the bloody time, even with a variety of chain devices and mechs. Gave up and went back to 2 x 9, which still works perfectly.

I’ve got 1×9 X9 (no clutch) on my 170mm steamroller with a 32T NW and a Stinger chain doofer on it. It’s fine on DH stuff and jumps and that. I’ve got some Shimano 1×10 stuff somewhere if I want to stick with gears once the 9sp stuff has worn out but that might be a while as I usually yank my SS HT out of the shed! +1 on the pushing up the steep bits as well 😀

I’m thinking of making the cassette smaller (1×5 or something) as I only really use the bike for DH stuff where I’d be pushing up anyway and tend to yank my SS HT out of the shed really secure, 1m-thick-concrete-walled, underground-access-only bike bunker (the entrance to which is over a retina scan-accessed folding bridge over a moat filled with killer robot ninja sharks with frickin’ laser beams on their heads) most of the time.

I’m running a 32T Superstar NW and a non-clutch XT rear mech.

I installed a chain device ‘cos I had one but I’m pretty confident I don’t need it. Might be a glad of it once stuff starts to wear I guess.

I run 1×9 on my Rock Lobster using 36/11-32. I use it mainly for local riding but it’s also been round Twrch, Cafall and Brechfa.

The chain ring sits in the middle position of an SLX triple and to keep the chain from falling off it’s got a bash guard on the outside and an N-Gear Jump stop on the inside <google it> it’s been working perfectly well since 2009.

32: 36-12 on inbred 29er.

Got up Snowdon & various Welsh trail centres fine. Using a on one stainless ring & a superstar 1x guide. Don’t buy the superstar guide it’s a bit pants: too much mud and it undoes the BB!

Ok, so something occurred to me. On a 29er with necessarily longer chainstays, you’d have a less acute angle in the extremes of gearing, wouldn’t you? And this could be worse on a 26er. So I wonder if chain dropping is more common on 26ers with 1x.