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  • anyone tried ghetto tubeless on roadie tyres?
  • reggiegasket
    Free Member

    I fancy trying some tubeless on the roadie but I run Open pros which, according to Stan, don't work that well with the NoTubes rim tape as the rim is too deep.

    see http://www.notubes.com/support_detailed_road.php

    Hence I'm tempted to give the ghetto approach a try, maybe with a 650c tube.

    Just wondering if anyone had tried such a thing, or read something on the web about it.

    joemarshall
    Free Member

    I dunno, but at £70 for a pair of road tubeless tyres, I think I'd want to be very sure it wasn't going to blow off the rim and break the bead on the tyre.

    Joe

    13thfloormonk
    Full Member

    I'd be worried that the extra layer of rubber sandwiched between the tyre bead and the rim would lessen the tyre's purchase on the rim, so once you'd got it up to full pressure it might blow off?

    Thats not founded on any science, just my inbuilt fear of p1ssing about with tyres at 120p.s.i!

    njee20
    Free Member

    A friend of mine did it with a few turns of electrical tape, some UST valves, some Stan's sealant and some totally stock GP4000s. They lose air a little more quickly than a tubed version, but not a problem, he thought the ride felt smoother too.

    joemarshall
    Free Member

    some Stan's sealant and some totally stock GP4000s. They lose air a little more quickly than a tubed version, but not a problem, he thought the ride felt smoother too.

    No problems with them blowing off the rim? Stan's (and the other people who sell tubeless conversion kits) seem to think that high pressure normal non-tubeless tyres will go bang if run tubeless.

    Joe

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    do you know what rims did he used njee20?

    Stans do sell a 700c rimstrip, which could be another option, but it adds weight. So then does a ghetto tube I admit…

    I'm going to have to try it methinks…

    aracer
    Free Member

    Feel free to have a go, but I'll not be trying it, and please don't go riding with groups of other people (racing/sportives). All the reports I've seen suggest you need to do it properly with road tubeless (proper tubeless tyres, a proper tubeless rim or a Stans kit) or not at all.

    charliemort
    Full Member

    would a Fulcrum wheel (which doesn't have spoke holes) count as a proper tubeless rim? Or would the sidewall bit be different?

    yes – the thought of a roadie tyre blowing offthe rim at 50 ish eeemmmm peeeeeeeee aitches is a tad concerning

    njee20
    Free Member

    He did it on DT Mon Chasseral wheels, which I believe are just stock DT RR 1.1 rims, he's had no problems with tyres blowing off. I don't really see why you'd be any more likely to than with a tube frankly. He did only use electrical tape, which is a lot thinner than Stan's tape/rim strips, which may have helped.

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    I intend to use proper tubeless tyres aracer (Hutchinson Fusion) it's just the issue of which 'kit' might be the best.

    Stans do the 700c rimstrip, and they do the 21mm tape+road valve. From what I've read – and there isn't a massive amount out there from my browsing – that the rimstrip is fine with OPs but the tape maybe not, due to the double eyelets on the OP rims.

    Some tubeless rims would be nice, but I like my ceramics too much…

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    just what is the purpose of a Stans rimstrip?

    is it just to seal the spoke holes or also to change how the tyre bead seats on the rim, in some way?

    olaf_hansen
    Free Member

    yes, I couldn't be bothered to repair a flat tyre. Configuration was Conti Attack/Force tyres on Dura Ace rims. Used a spare valve knocking around. Anyway tyre went up ok so started inflating to 70psi, at which point it blew up in my face, covering me with sealant.

    That's ok – tyres blowing up in your face is part of the tubeless learning curve. Needless to say, I decided the experiment was a failure. Planning to go tubeless with proper kit eventually.

    matthewlhome
    Free Member

    for road tyres it is something to do with the strength and shaping of the bead that means normal tyres are bad at high pressures tubeless.

    An inner tube forces the beads into the hooks i would think.

    Even on my Stans tubeless mtb rims it states a max pressure of 40psi (with tubeless tyres).

    Stans do seem to recommend using the roadie kit for cyclocross tyre conversion though (but then that is at silly low pressure anyway).

    njee20
    Free Member

    Looks like my mate got lucky, I guess it depends on tyre/rim choice! Hutchinson clinchers are generally very 'baggy' anyway, and probably don't lend themselves to staying put. When I used tubed Fusions on some carbon clincher rims they would just blow off periodically, got knows what would've happened without a tube!

    aracer
    Free Member

    he's had no problems with tyres blowing off. I don't really see why you'd be any more likely to than with a tube frankly

    I imagine it's to do with friction between the tube and the tyre – given friction is pressure dependent, that will be pretty significant. In any case, there is plenty enough anecdotal evidence of tyres blowiong off that it seems stupid to risk it.

    aracer
    Free Member

    I intend to use proper tubeless tyres aracer (Hutchinson Fusion) it's just the issue of which 'kit' might be the best.

    Fine, but ghetto as you mentioned in your first post seems a particularly silly idea since it interferes with bead fit (which is pretty important for tubeless).

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    Holy thread resurrection! So, who's doing the tubeless 700c thing a year on?

    I've got Alex ac-19 rims with Stan's rim strips and wire beaded Specialized Borough tyres (32mm) at the moment which run at 60 ps and have been trouble free for about two years now.

    I've got some 29er Arch rims and I was thinking of using some 28mm GP 4 season tyres with them. Anyone with any experience in this field? I'd like to try the Hutchinson Intensive but the Arch rims are a little too wide.

    aracer
    Free Member

    Well if you're going to resurrect a thread you could try reading what's already been said – unless you're sticking to the 60psi you're using with the other tyres then it's a bad idea – you really should be using proper tubeless tyres if you want to run higher pressures than that.

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    I did read the thread, in fact, I searched for the thread. That's how I found one that's a year old.

    I've no desire to go over the 60 psi I run now as it works fine. I was just interested to see what others have done and how it's going. I've got the arch rims as they seem quite light and should work better with tubeless than most other stuff. I would use a proper tubeless tyre but no one makes one wide enough for the arch rim (min 28mm).

    My main interest is whether anyone has done similar to me but with a kevlar beaded rather than wire beaded tyre.

    Barteos
    Free Member

    Hi Onzadog

    I have some good experience with “alternative” road setups although the highest pressure I’ve tried was only 65 PSI with various 700c 32-35mm kevlar bead tyres, mostly Schwalbe Kojaks 35mm and Rivendell Jack Browns 33.33333mm, on Stans ZTR355 29er rims. I found that at this width 50-60PSI seems to be the best compromise between speed and comfort.

    The funny thing is… after having done some runs with various tyres I found that 25mm GP4000s (tubes, 100PSI) eren’t significantly faster than Jack Browns (if any, more testing needed).

    I’d bet you could put some 25mm (eff. 29mm on Stans rims) Contis on and pump them up to 80PSI. All you need to find out how far you can go is a camera and a compressor. Turn on the compresor, leave the camera on in a video mode and… go for a walk or make yourself a cup of tea.
    When you come back, you’ll know what pressure it went to and you’ll have a funny clip to post on Youtube 😆

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 20 total)

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