My front wheel isn't aligned centrally relative to the headtube. If I take the plug out of the steerer it is possibly 10mm or so off to the right (by eye).

I had a minor crash last week and it is since then that I've noticed it, although it could have been like this before hand as I'm using a front wheel that I don't use that often. Unfortunately I dismantled the other wheel so can't just put it back on in an attempt to establish if it is wheel dish or I If have done something to the lefty.

The fall was basically just a slip on ice, the bike hit nothing other than the pavement. The bars turned slightly during the fall, which surprised me given it is 1.5" steerer. I've reset the bars and have also slackened off all the pinch bolts on the crowns (DLR2 from 2002), let the leg settle into a neutral position (it is keyed into the crowns) and re-tightened, but it is still the same.

If I look at the wheel there is definately quite a bit of dish in it, but I have no idea if it is enough/just right.

Any ideas anyone.

take the wheel to a bike shop and ask them to check its dishing.

Been there but……….a minor off wont upset the dish poor tensioning might.Its a pretty inacurate method sighting down the head tube looking at a tyre,if the wheel is still true dont worry, it doesnt really effect the ride, just ride and smile more,concentrate on whats ahead

Buy some proper forks!! 😈

Virtually impossible to check the dishing without the proper hub truing adapter. You'll have to ask any shop you take it too if they actually have one as most dont.

I had an experience where I took my old lefty wheel to a LBS. When I picked the wheel up I asked them if they had the correct tool, and they told me they did it by sticking a long allen key through the hub!! As you can imagine when I put it back on the bike it was way off.

If you are confident of truing/building wheels maybe worth just trying to dish it over yourself.

We've got the official cannondale truing adaptor, most cannondale dealers will too, but it's a pretty crap tool to work with as it's a loose fit in the wheel bearings, though you should still be able to get it close using it.

I have a Project 321 adaptor you can borrow if you are near BS37

In this case sighting is accurate enough to know that it is way off, even with the tyre still in place. It looks so far off that I don't think (but don't know for sure) that it ISN'T the wheel dish. There is plenty of dish in the wheel already, and to put sufficient additional dish in the correct the alignment looks like it would result in something akin to a teepee. I'm worried that I've distorted the fork somehow, I'm going to try and take the leg out of the clamps to check the key/grove is still intact.

Thats what I was about to suggest, if the key or groove is damaged/missing from either the fork leg or steerer then this would cause problems. It wouldnt be immediately apparent as the stem can still be aligned with the wheel.

I remember the lefty being pretty idiot proof to assemble, is there a chance it could have been damaged?

I now know what the problem is. The titanium stub axle has rotated slightly relative to the lower leg. It wasn't the stem that had rotated on the steerer as I initially assumed. It was a minor fall/slide so I'm surprised, unless the cold (-3 or 4 degrees on the day it happened) caused the alloy inner leg to shrink just enough that relatively little force was required to rotate the stub axle.

I'm now wondering if taking a blow torch to the Ti stub axle will get it to expand just enough that I can shift it back with requiring so much force that I damage something. I have a feeling that the inner alloy leg will expand quicker than the Ti stub axle part though.

I wonder if Tony Nunn at Thumbprint could help?