Sold my Dialled Alpine this week and was just got to continue being a brand whore and by a new Dialled PA, but before i did i thought i would run a few things past the hive mind of STW.

I sold the Alpine because i wanted something a bit more XC, and ideally lighter……as i finally told myself i live in East Anglia and I just ain't going to be getting the full use of its downhill capabilities :mrgreen:.

Having always been on steel bikes, more or less, i have never really thought about an ally frame as believed they would be too harsh on 4hr-ish rides. Is this the case? Or would a frame like the mmmbop be as comfy as a PA/Blue Pig etc?

Not trying to start a steel vs ally thing and notice i never once mentioned 'springiness', but if i can drop about 1KG by switching the frame then i may consider trying out a ally HT frame.

Cheers all.

I have a Whyte 905 and find it better for all day rides than the PA that went before it. I doubt I notice any differenc in the material due to fat tyres and its just the weight making the ride nicer

Been using an alu ht as my main ride for almost 4 years. Several hours are no bother.
How you spec it makes all the difference.

I've done a few of the Merida enduro's, IOM End to End and all day rides in Wales on a Cannondale HT, I'm sure you'll be fine on an alu frame

I managed the SDW on a alloy hardtail. 12hrs of riding and fairly comfortable.

There's harsh steel out there, and very cushy feeling aluminium. It's not black and white. My alu hardtail is floaty and all day comfy.

Don't have a problem on all day rides on my Alloy HT,

Horses for courses really isn't it, just because I'm comfy doesn't mean you will be.

New bikes are always exciting though so have fun whatever you choose.

Aluminium's fine all day, especially if you run your back tyre at a sensible pressure, not rock hard like a roady.

I know people who have completed 24 hour races on a chameleon, it simply does not get any stiffer than that.
Best I can manage on my cham before my back starts to ache is about 6-7 hours though, although I do have a history of back problems.

Yeah. Just pick one that's not overbuilt. Whyte 19s seem lovely.

got a MaxlightProXC3 Only 1.5kg, carbon rear stays-fab bike-fast and comfortable

done 4 x 11 hr rides on my alu rig.

As above, the spec and the frame design will have far more influence than the metal used. I reckon my fat tubed aluminium Pace 303 was marginally more comfortable than the 456 that replaced it, using all the same components except the seatpost of which the Pace had a much longer one and I think that was the key difference.

Fat tyres solve all ills. 🙂

456's are stiff, I swaped the components over from a DMR and it was imediately obviouls that it was considerably more direct.

Done plenty of all day rides on aluminium hardtails so don't worry. Fit a carbon post and softer semi slick rear tyre if your worried.

If the alpine was too much bike for norfolk, how will the mmmmbop be any better? As someone said, you might be better off with an XC bike.

Well i will be running some 2.35 tubeless Maxxis Ignitors and thinking a about a set of those cheap Revs Merlin are doing so it should have a bit of give whatever frame i choose. I do like that Whyte19, but a bit out of my price range. Looking at about £280ish new or second hand at the mo.

If the alpine was too much bike for norfolk, how will the mmmmbop be any better? As someone said, you might be better off with an XC bike.

To clarify i am not quite in Norfolk. In Peterborough and I have Woburn/Chicksands just down the road, but i see your point. I just quoted the mmmbop as a frame that popped into my head.

Basically i have one bike to do it all, so it does need to have the ability to say do chicksands occasionally as well as say bridleways/rooty stuff.

I ride a Chammy all day – it's fine.

Fat rear tyres avoid pedal feedback (which beats you up after a long day even on a steel h/t) and layback seatposts make an amazing difference.

and layback seatposts make an amazing difference.

Only if you need one.

and layback seatposts make an amazing difference.

…in absorbing the trail buzz.

Layback posts!

🙂 That's a good one. Must add that to the mtb myths list 😉

Technically of course you're right but what you really mean is that having the saddle further back from the axis of the seatpost will tend to make it flex more – the layback post doesn't do that in itself and besides, the seat tube angle will have just as much effect there too as will the design (how stiff it is) of the post.

I used to have and old Rocky Mountain HT, my feet used to go numb just from the trail buzz from riding on fireroads because it was so stiff. Never mind about over roots and rocks!

Used to have a full suss and an steel framed bike which were both comfortable for all day rides, though I used to have similar concerns regarding ally HTs.

I've now got a Scandal and it doesn't feel like an ally, bike. Little or no trail buzz (dependent on tyre pressure of course) and still comfortable to ride all day.

PS I've got a in line Thomson seatpost and it's still comfortable. If that makes any difference.

ridden nothing but aluminium hardtails since about '95 wouldn't even consider going back to steel for anything I'd ride uphill on.

all these recomendations of fat low pressure rear tyres and seatposts are bollox.. just stand up more often – you'll become a stronger better rider for it too.

I ride a Chammy all day – it's fine. +1

Me an' littlegirlbunny…Hard as nails…

all these recomendations of fat low pressure rear tyres and seatposts are bollox.. just stand up more often – you'll become a stronger better rider for it too.

Because by standing up the ground below your rear wheel suddenly becomes bowling green smooth?

I've never seen a fat low pressure seatpost..

If you are on a lovely pink and fluffy marsh mallow mountain everything will be lovely.

i've just started riding my first hardtail in a while (mmmbop), my other bike has 7" of trail smoothing action.

I run:

2.35" tyres at about 30psi
Thomson inline seatpost
titanium saddle

Honestly can't see why you wouldn't be able to do an all day ride on an ally HT?

Yeah sure, if you sit down through all the rough stuff you're going to take a bit of a beating, but why would you?

Provided your bike fits and is set up properly, and you're not a little princess, you won't have any issues on all day rides.

The only thing i've noticed so far is a bit of a stiff neck/back if I've been constantly doing small-medium sized drops on the HT (e.g. 2ft to 4ft). I think that might be more down to my poor technique than anything else, since I'm so used to landing on a big travel full bounce.

Because by standing up the ground below your rear wheel suddenly becomes bowling green smooth?

if your knees work and you can handle a bike well enough, yes it does 😉

Contrary to Clubbers ignorance a laidback seatpost will flex enough to make a difference especially on a larger diameter post

if your knees work and you can handle a bike well enough, yes it does

I'm pretty sure my knees work so I clearly can't ride, as I certainly find a big low-pressure rear tyres makes my PA more comfortable, even when standing.

Contrary to Clubbers ignorance a laidback seatpost will flex enough to make a difference especially on a larger diameter post

He's a qualified engineer and a very experienced cyclist.

And he's right, you did read his entire post didn't you?

Lots of people have told me my santa cruz chameleon is really stiff and really uncomfortable. Done 7-8 hour rides in the Alps on it, riden all day in Wales, and plenty of shorter 3-4 hour rides, with no issues.

Hmm…..and there was me thinking the bickering would start about the magical properties of steel, and from leftfield comes the layback seatpost theory. Dammit! Wong again. 😉

Cheers for all the input so far anyways people. Appreciated 8)

That KingTut knows what he's on about 😉

Coasting – read my whole post and tell me what I'm wrong about because I'm not…

To simplify my point, unless you actually adjust your postition when you fit the layback post (eg move the saddle further back than it was with a straight post) then it'll make no significant difference assuming that both posts are made of the same material/diameter/etc.

Hmm…..and there was me thinking the bickering would start about the magical properties of steel

That's because most sane people know that's bollocks.

Pace 303' I had was ok with a carbon post & Ti saddle.
Riding position was a bit tight for all-day rides, more a 2-hour blast machine.
If the riding position was bit more relaxed then it would have been fine for whole day.

I've ridden my Cove Stiffee on several enduros (Dyfi / Rough Ride etc) and I did the first two 24/12 races on it (the second one 12hr solo)plus big days in Wales, the Lake and Peak Districts. No big deal – just running regular 2.1 or 2.2 tyres.

I use inline seatpost and run the saddle right back on its rails, in mym ind that should be the most comfortable (if not particulrly stong) combination?

Seems to work, but then I'd be looking for the change so it might not be there.