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  • 7 day-ish tour of the Hebrides, Mull and Skye- route advice
  • munrobiker
    Free Member

    I’m planning a road tour with the wife of the islands. It’s something we’ve been meaning to do for a while but having looked at it I would appreciate some route advice.

    There are some limitations to what we can do, namely-

    – My wife is not particularly fit. Absolute max mileage a day is 40 miles, preferably 30, and we’d generally prefer to stick to the coast to keep it flat, ish. Chances are she’ll be on a hybrid.

    – In an ideal world we’d catch the Jacobite from Mallaig to Fort William (or the reverse).

    – We must visit Harris and Lewis and Skye.

    – It’d be nice to visit Mull.

    We will be driving up so could park up in Oban and do one big loop, which looks to me to be the preferred option.

    The biggest question for us is is it worth visiting Stornoway? It would be a round trip which would probably add 2 days to our trip, leaving not much time to rest and enjoy things off the bike.

    I’m looking at the Hopscotch routes for getting around as they’re cheap but the Island Rover seems to offer routes that will shorten the riding for us at twice the price. Anyone got any tips on which one to go for?

    wanmankylung
    Free Member

    Oban>Barra>Uists>Bernera and Benbecula>Harris>Tarbert>Uig>Armadale>Lochaline>Craignure>Oban. Job done.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Opinion: I’d plan for two trips.

    1/ Make sure you get the ferry from Uig on Skye to Lochmaddy. Tour North Uist then get the ferry to Leverburgh and go up through Harris that way. If I had to drop one place, it would be Lewis (but then you’d miss Callanish). However, you also have the option of getting a ferry back to Ullapool.

    You might just manage Barra to Lewis with your maximum daily mileage too but you’ll have to judge how much chilling vs riding time that takes. If this is for next year then she also has loads of time to get a wee bit fitter. She’ll enjoy the riding more and be more able to enjoy what’s around her.

    2/ I’d leave Mull to a different trip so that you have time to take in Ardnamurchan, Sunart etc. That might fit in better with the train trip too.

    In terms of daily mileage, you might have issues with accommodation being just where you want it so some decent planning will need to be done.

    nwallace
    Free Member

    Harris is hilly… very hilly.
    As is Mull although not so bad.

    I’d go with the above suggested loop (wanmankylung) but maybe if hills are a problem skip Harris and take the Lochmaddy ferry to Uig rather than the Tarbert one, but the Berneray hostel is an absolute must… as is Howmore now I think of it…

    There’s bunks at the Dervaig village hall

    Oban <-> Fort Bill should be doable in a day.
    Any particular reason to take the steamer? The units are just as good for the views (if not better) and consierably cheaper.

    ton
    Full Member

    me and mrs ton are planning 2 weeks doing this next year.
    gonna get train up to Oban, and get ferry back to Ullapool.
    then get the bike bus to Inverness and train back to Leeds.

    cant blooming wait……. 😀

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Two weeks make a lot more sense.

    Pickers
    Full Member

    As above, I’d do a separate tour taking in Mull and the surrounding area.
    I don’t see any reason to go to Stornoway (ferries excepted) unless there’s something there you need to see; I found most of Lewis pretty bleak. Harris though is brilliant, but not very flat – basically an east road and a west road that are completely different, but both are fantastic.
    I found plenty of B&Bs but had to ring and book a place even for that night – some don’t take cards so worth checking and having plenty of cash or even some cheques with you.
    My tour was two weeks in May last year starting and finishing in Inverness – I’d do it again in a blink!

    munrobiker
    Free Member

    Holiday plans for next year won’t stretch to 2 weeks, but hey, any excuse to go back another time is welcome! Mull does seem to keep eluding us.

    The mileage is based on her getting fitter- we did 15 miles yesterday and that was about her limit. We have done a tour like this before but it was very much hill-free. Having looked at a profile of the A859 it’s probably beyond her.

    We’ll be camping half of it where we can’t get to a B&B, but not the whole thing.

    We’d prefer the Jacobite as I’m a bit of a train nerd.

    How does this sound if Lewis is a bit bleak? It crams in most of what we’re after hopefully without being too busy, but are we missing anything?

    Day 0.5 (arrive at lunchtime from England)- Oban>Mull ferry
    Day 1- Potter about Mull then go back and catch Oban>Lochboisdale ferry
    Day 2- Ride to North Uist
    Day 3- North Uist via Berneray to Tarbert
    Day 4- Loop around Tarbert up into Harris along the B887 and back, Tarbert>Uig ferry
    Day 5- Uig to Sligachan, possibly via the east coast
    Day 6- Sligachan to Armadale, Armadale>Mallaig ferry then catch the train to Fort William
    Day 7- Fort William to Oban, then a massive night in Skippinish.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Is that 15 miles at your pace? Seriously, unless she has some underlying medical condition then she will easily manage bigger/longer days than that.

    Anyway… I still think you are trying to pack in too much. When I cycled through North Uist to Tarbert that was a really long day (complicated by the ferry times). Having said that, we were staying at Carinis.

    Going up through Lewis to Carloway and Callanish would still be worthwhile. Just take the Pentland Road over to Stornoway if you don’t fancy the top end of the island.

    Taking camping gear to use some of the time could be an unnecessary extra burden. Mind you, borrow a trailer and you could haul it all to even up your abilities a little 🙂

    wanmankylung
    Free Member

    I’d ditch Mull and take in Barra and Vatersay. Mull is a bit shit.

    wanmankylung
    Free Member

    There is of course the other idea. Borrow TJ’s tandem.

    MadBillMcMad
    Full Member

    bookmark

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Tandem on the train is the showstopper. Ideally, there would be a company that hired out a tandem and had a suitable vehicle to drop you off in Kyle then pick you up in Ullapool. If only there was someone offering that sort of service

    Teetosugars
    Free Member

    *Bookmarks*

    dunmail
    Free Member

    I’d do the length of the western isles, they really are quite special. The ferry to Barra arrives fairly late in the evening, 8pm from memory. so:

    Day 1: go round the western side of Barra, it’s not as hilly as the eastern road, get ferry to Eriskay. Possibly include out and back to Vatersay or out to Traigh Mhor the airport on the beach. Stop somewhere on the south end of South Uist. Distance about 15 miles or if you get as far as Lochboisdale about 25 miles.
    Day 2. Head up South Uist and across Benbecula to North Uist, lots of things to see just off the road so plenty of chances for stops. It’s basically flat so you should be able to go forty miles.
    Day 3. Across North Uist to Berneray
    Day 4. Ferry to Harris (can be tide dependent) then take the Gold Road on the east side of the island. This is quite hard work but only 20 miles or so to Tarbert and will be much nicer riding than the main road. Possibly get the ferry to Uig depending on your timing. If you get the afternoon ferry you can get to Portree quite easily – it’s one steady pull out of Uig then a long downhill most of the way to Portree.
    Day 5. Portree down across Skye. TBH this isn’t particularly pleasant – you’ve one road that’s used by all the traffic on the island or you’ve the hilly western side, though once you are past Sligachan there’s only the one road. At Broadford head down to Armadale and ferry over to Mallaig. There’s a great hostel in Mallaig.
    Day 6. Train to Ft William then coast road down to Oban.

    Almost the same as your route. About 160 miles in total to Mallaig plus whatever from Ft William to Oban.

    I’m not sure about bikes on the Mallaig to Ft William section but you definitely have to book them for the Glasgow to Oban and Glasgow to Ft William sections. You could divide the route up a bit more so that you leave the train at Oban and pick it up at Mallaig. Actually this would be better as the A82 between Ft William and Ballachuilish is not nice on a bike as it’s the main road in to the west highlands plus the train journey over Rannoch Moor shouldn’t be missed.

    Edit: If you drove to Tyndrum you could leave the car there and get the train to Oban then the train back from Mallaig/Ft William.

    munrobiker
    Free Member

    No tandems, part of the deal with this is that I get to use a new bike!

    Scotroutes- Not at my pace, no. There was a bloke battering down the disused railway line looking very Nduro with his wife puffing and panting 30 yards behind. To be fair, she managed fine yesterday but was feeling it at the end but she’s not ridden more than 4 miles for about 6 months. Regardless, more than 40 miles a day wouldn’t be the relaxing time she would like. Too much bikes, not enough sitting about.

    Dunmail, that sounds good given the suggestions to leave Mull. Gold Road looks lovely too, I think we’ll try that. We would probably still park in Oban as we have friends there.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    West Coast of Harris is definitely better than the East. The road is busier (it’s all comparative) but has better sightlines, fewer undulations and, importantly, better scenery.

    dunmail
    Free Member

    The Gold road is quite lumpy – some 16% climbs – but they are short, it’s different to most of the other roads in that it feels like it’s connecting communities rather than just getting from A to B as fast as possible. I’d agree with scotroutes that the road on the west has better scenery (beaches), Luskentyre is a short detour.

    hairyscary
    Full Member

    I did the following this year:

    Day 1: Ferry from Oban to South Uist. Cycled to the top of North Uist. 45’ish miles.
    Day 2: Cycled to Lochmaddy. Ferry to Uig. Cycled to Sligachan……got very pissed. 45’ish miles.
    Day 3: Cycled to Armadale. Ferry to Mallaig. Cycled around Ardnamurchan to Kilchoan. 93 hard miles. (You could make this two days by stopping at Arisaig)
    Day 4: Ferry to Tobermory. Cycled to the bottom of Mull. Ferry back to Oban. 22 miles.

    I did intend on heading over to Harris but high winds scuppered that idea and trashed my Wild Country tent. The first two days were the ones I was looking forward to the most but didn’t enjoy them due to horrendous weather. Ardnamurchan was really nice and soooo quiet (thanks for the advice Colin)

    You will cover the miles with no problem. The 93 miles was only hard because I was hungover.

    towzer
    Full Member

    ? have you thought of motorhome hire, a week is a very limited amount of time in fab scenery (and cycling in the peeing rain/gales might not quite make ‘holiday’ in terms of experience for the gf), that would give you alternatives and let you skip bits you don’t like ?

    I’ve done most of the bits you mention and a week sounds very rushed to me

    nbt
    Full Member

    bloody hell, I think I might start a tandem hire service using my own bike at those rates! Anyone wanna hire a tandem in the peak district, drop me a line 😉

    stevemakin
    Full Member

    dont be absolutley fixed to ferry times, as I found out last week they are disrupted more than I thought which meant a quick change of plan from a week of bikepacking across from Mallaig/skye/harris to a week in a cheap cottage on Skye mostly walking

    rogermoore
    Full Member

    Hi Munrobiker,

    I did a similar trip last year, went in mid June and got mainly nice weather – mainly light winds and just a couple of wet days but nothing too bad.

    Our route was;
    Day 1. Drive up to Oban – afternoon Ferry to Barra. Rode over to Vatersay and camped on the side of the road near to the Community Hall (where there is a tap/bog).
    Day 2. Cycled back across Barra and caught the ferry to Eriskay. Cycled across to South Uist and stayed at Howmore Hostel.
    Day 3. Cycled across South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist to Berneray and stayed at the Bhearnaraigh Hostel there.
    Day 4. Caught the first ferry to Leverburgh and cycled on the more eastern route across Harris to Tarbert (quite hilly) caught the afternoon ferry to Uig on Skye. Cycled to Portree and camped overnight.
    Day 5. First wet day cycling across Skye to Armadale, but brightened up in the afternoon. Caught afternoon ferry to Mallaig and cycled south (about 10 miles) to campsite on coast.
    Day 6. Long day in the saddle! Cycled from campsite across mainland and onto the Ardnamurchan peninsula to get to Kilchoan and caught the last ferry of the day to Tobermory. Stayed at the youth hostel.
    Day 7. Another wet day, started off with intention of cycling all the way round Mull, but got round the northern half and cut back west to east (through Salen) and then back to Craignure. Camped overnight there (and went to pub!).
    Day 8. First ferry back to Oban and drove home.

    The hostels, apart from Tobermory, were run by the Gatliff Trust.

    It was a great trip and we were blessed with some great weather. The afternoon/evening ride on Skye was probably the high point for me as the weather was so good. Getting across to catch the last ferry of the day to Mull also felt like an achievement after such a long day.

    I’d do it again, probably take longer and try to take more in rather than just ploughing from place to place.

    RM.

    munrobiker
    Free Member

    We aren’t too bothered by Ardnamurchan and so on, we’ve done the west coast mainland a lot.

    Almost all these suggestions are clockwise- any reasons not to do it anticlockwise (other than the prevailing wind) as, based on the 2014 timetables, the ferries won’t fit the current dates clockwise.

    dunmail
    Free Member

    No real reason other than having the prevailing wind on your back for the Outer Hebrides, there’s not much shelter and pedalling 40 miles in to a headwind isn’t fun. Actually there isn’t any shelter 🙁

    LadyGresley
    Free Member

    Try to do the Outer Hebs south to north – going t’other way meant days of only 25 miles struggling into headwinds! I did also discover if you stop and cry in the middle of the road, you can easily persuade your other half that a hotel is needed for the night!

    chickenman
    Full Member

    Disagree with South Harris; think the Golden Road is an absolute must. West coast is gorgeous too of course with its stunning views to the Harris hills.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    I did the Outer Hebrides South to North and had a really strong headwind all the way. On the upside, that mostly meant fine, sunny weather. I’ve spoken to quite a few others who’ve reported the same thing.

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