Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
  • 2 Drive Questions
  • mikehopkins
    Free Member

    My LBS just told me it’s not possible to take a cassette lockring off without it being attached to a rim (wtteo)

    Please forgive my ignorance… but surely it doesn’t matter because the chain whip holds the sprocket and therefore provides purchase on it and bob’s your uncle?

    Second Question they say my crank arms haven’t got to be exactly evenly spaced…it’s not rocket science…but maybe I’m wrong…

    Sorry for the Saturday rant

    Any Response welcome Cheers

    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    Your LBS is wrong – its much easier with a rim but not impossible without.

    don’t know what yo mean by crank arms evenly space – you mean across the frame?

    Junkyard
    Free Member

    the cassette ring attaches to a freewheel WTF has a rim got to do with it
    As you are turning in opposite directions it is not needed [ miht make it wasier but I have never tried on just a hib.

    what do they mean by evenly spaced crank arms?
    Whilst I have never actually measured mine I am sure they are the same Q factor each side by design

    mikehopkins
    Free Member

    Yeah evenly on my frame, they installed it and one is prouder than the other.

    Thanks Jeremy : )

    P.S. would it damage the hub or sprocket in anyway without the rim? Oh and also it’s a single sprocket so would that make it ‘not possible’?

    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    Do yo uhave a pic of the cranks?

    mikehopkins
    Free Member

    no it just went into the LBS, who haven’t given me a good experience (only used ’em three times) but I’ll go back up there and tell them the above…

    Cheers Jeremy and JunkYard

    Junkyard
    Free Member

    it wont do anything to the hub or sprocket without a rim the rim just gives you more leverage – ie you can put your knee on it to stop it sliding around as you may need three hands without a rim

    When you say prouder do you mean stick out more
    Remember the drive side has crank arms so looks more flush
    measure the crank arm [ inner face]from a middle line on your frame it should be equal [ edge of the frmae will do ]

    mikehopkins
    Free Member

    oh I have….highly scientifically…non drive side can fit my thumb…drive side cant even fit my pinky : S

    Junkyard
    Free Member

    Not sure I can work with such high tolerances as i am not an engineer 😉
    is this from the crank arm by the pedal to frame rather than nearest the frame BB?

    if the former then that is not right

    Not sure how you can do this wrong with either an external or a square taper?
    Is it external BB and they have fitted the spacers to the wrong side of the BB cups???

    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    mikehopkins – Member

    oh I have….highly scientifically…non drive side can fit my thumb…drive side cant even fit my pinky : S

    that sounds not right

    mikehopkins
    Free Member

    Not sure I can work with such high tolerances as i am not an engineer
    is this from the crank arm by the pedal to frame rather than nearest the frame BB?

    It’s from the tip of the crank arm (pedal end).

    Oh and they scratched my cassette spacers and my lockring, matt black, now with silver scratches.

    mrmo
    Free Member

    It’s from the tip of the crank arm (pedal end).

    The frame isn’t asymmetric is it? just thinking like.

    Other thoughts, measure the bottom bracket shell what width is it? are there any thin spacers between the shell and the inside edge of the bottom bracket cups? if so drive side or non drive side and how many?

    faz083
    Free Member

    I think if you miss spacers then there is more load on one side of the crank, and that wears that sides bearings out quicker. I might be wrong though

    mikehopkins
    Free Member

    Ok they sorted it for free and were reasonable about it but no apology or anything. thanks for your’ answers guys 🙂

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