• This topic has 20 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 12 years ago by mboy.
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  • 1 be 10 quandary…
  • glacier79
    Free Member

    Just gone 1 be 10 with one of those xtr medium cage clutch mechs and an xt 11-36 cassette with a 36t renthal chainring on a xt crank and the blighter doesn’t sound great (kind of a buzzing) when I’m in the higher gears but is fine in the lower ones. Is there anything anyone can suggest to sort this as I’m thinking of shimming out the chainring or moving one of the bottom bracket spacers. Is this likely to improve matters? Any advice appreciated folks 🙂

    mboy
    Free Member

    What chain device you running?

    glacier79
    Free Member

    No chain device, I’m relying on th clutch mechanism in the mech that keeps the chain under tension when engaged.

    mboy
    Free Member

    Good luck with that! From what I’ve heard, you’ll need it…

    Anyway… As for the rubbing sounds? Maybe swap the HT2 spacers to put the extra one on the non drive side instead of the drive.

    Brake-neck
    Free Member

    From what I’ve heard

    So what exactly is it that you have heard?

    takisawa2
    Full Member

    No idea what a clutch type mech is, but I ran 10spd last summer (briefly) using SLX bits but with Surly ring & it was noisy. Put a cheap Deore one on & it was fine. I put it down to the longer teeth on the ring causing the buzzing. To be honest, I could have lived with it but had the Deore ring as a spare anyway. After a few rides I’m sure I wouldn’t have noticed it.

    I can’t see how more tension at the back can prevent the chain bouncing off at the front without a guide of some sort. I tried without a guide & it was ok on the flat, but cornering was when it tended to drop off. I eventually put a guide on & the Superstar one worked well enough for me. Didn’t lose the chain after setting that up.

    bm0p700f
    Free Member

    Are you on a hardtail or full susser? When I ran 1×9 on a hard tail around Thetford I did it without a tensioner and never had a chain come off. I kind of depends on the type of riding you do as well.

    On a full suspension bike however a guide/tensioner is probably more essential.

    Shorter teeth sounds like a likely solution to the buzzing sound.

    buzz-lightyear
    Free Member

    Please report back how well you get on with the clutched derailer keeping the chain on. Am rather interested in these. Pics needed too.

    wrecker
    Free Member

    36T?
    Is it flat around your way or have you got legs like Chris Hoy?

    njee20
    Free Member

    I ride 36t on 1×10, gives a 1:1 bottom gear, pretty low.

    Also interested in how effective the Shadow Plus mech is at keeping the chain on, makes sense.

    I can’t see how more tension at the back can prevent the chain bouncing off at the front without a guide of some sort.

    The top’s under tension anyway, so adding it to the bottom will just keep everything more taut. If it stops chain slap it stands to reason it may well also avoid dropping the chain.

    glacier79
    Free Member

    Live in notts so fairly flat around here. I suspect the peaks will be interesting when I next venture over, might take a spare 32t to swap to if it’s tough going. I’ll report back after my first proper ride out on how the new mech copes. Had a quick spin on it already and it’s eerily quiet. I ride a full sus meta 5 so hopefully it’ll be fine when it’s all bedded in.

    Stevelol
    Free Member

    Something must be rubbing somewhere. Maybe compress the shock and see if the chain rubs on anything?

    rootes1
    Full Member

    jockey wheel too close the big sprockets? adjust the B screw

    thomthumb
    Free Member

    I ride 36t on 1×10 32t on 1×9, gives a 1:1 bottom gear, pretty low.

    +1

    glacier79
    Free Member

    What is the easiest way to get a pic on here from my iPhone?

    rootes1
    Full Member

    upload to flickr, google web albums etc and reference in

    glacier79
    Free Member
    mboy
    Free Member

    From what I’ve heard
    So what exactly is it that you have heard?

    Just that these clutch mechs don’t make much difference to the chain staying on. They do a good job of reducing chain slap/bounce, but that there is little or no benefit to them when compared with a chain device.

    Horses for courses though… Some people get on fine with a Superstar Top only guide on their 1x setups. I tried it and it was terrible, kept losing my chain at least once every ride and having to unjam it from the guide. Ended up going for a proper MRP with top and bottom guides on it and not had a problem since.

    rj
    Free Member

    How’s the chainline look when you’re in the biggest sprocket at the back? I had a similar problem that was due to the chainline being crap. I had to space the front ring so far in that it’s only a couple of mm from the chainstay.

    buzz-lightyear
    Free Member

    Some people get on fine with a Superstar Top only guide on their 1x setups. I tried it and it was terrible, kept losing my chain at least once every ride and having to unjam it from the guide.

    I had this. Until I minimised my chain length.

    mboy
    Free Member

    I had this. Until I minimised my chain length.

    Chain length was already minimised.

    I’ve since spoken to a number of people who have had the same issue too. I guess it’s one of those things that works for some people, but not others, maybe there’s a reason, maybe not. But I couldn’t recommend a top only guide to anyone unless for on road use given my own experiences, but when I’ve used proper Chain Devices (currently MRP Lopes, but have used E13 LG1 and different MRP system 1’s and 3’s in the past) I haven’t had a problem.

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