In our hobby house we've got a spider web of cracks in most ceilings. It's all lathe and plaster, and I've been digging out each crack into a V, then taping with scrim tape, filling with jointing compound (easifill), and then sanding.
Two coats - first to cover the crack and the tape, then a second thin coat to make it smooth. The cracks I've done look good, but I haven't tried painting it yet.
I've been told not to bother with the scrim tape by our builder, as he says I'll be able to see it once it's painted. Whilst he's done an ok job on what we've asked him to do, I also suspect he prefers a quick fix rather than doing things properly.
Everything I've read suggests that you should use it to prevent, or at least discourage cracks from reappearing. Although many of these instructions are relevant to straight cracks between plasterboard panels rather than snaking cracks in lathe and plaster.
Anyone have any opinion on the most reliable method?
No useful input, but I have the same issue and had also planned to do as you're doing....so interested in any views.
I have scrim/fill/skimmed/painted joints elsewhere though, and you can't see the tape. Depends how well it's skimmed over I suspect, you can either see the tape through the skim or not. Be aware the top layer will eventually dry out and shrink a bit though.
I have done both methods over the years. Its certainly a lot easier to just use easyfil. On most of the cracks I've filled without tape it looks great. Can't see it at all. The only place it hasn't worked is around the loft hatch. I guess that area gets flexed quite a bit. Will re-do with tape at some point.
Whether you can see the bulge made by using scrim tape will depend on the lighting. If you have a light that shines across the surface then even the slightest bump will show up. Anywhere else you will easily get away with it.
TBH these days I usually give small cracks just a smear of easyfil then see how it goes. Much easier.
I have used fine scrim tape before to fix cracks, problem with normal tape is (unless you are better than me) because of the thickness, you need more filler and more feathering so it is more noticable when painted.
Think this is the stuff I used:
http://www.toupretpro.co.uk/products/product_view.php?pid=14
Another point, I would do a few cracks and then paint and check it out before putting too much effort in. Things look very, very, very different when all painted the same colour in a variety of lights. I learned this the hard way 😳
Another point, I would do a few cracks and then paint and check it out before putting too much effort in. Things look very, very, very different when all painted the same colour in a variety of lights. I learned this the hard way
I think this is what I'm going to do this weekend...I've finished the cracks in the dining room, so will paint it to see what it looks like. I'll probably prime it, then top coat it...that should help cover up any imperfections I hope.
The master bedroom ceiling is a maze of cracks so I should make sure I'm using the right approach before tackling that.
We've also got lathe and plaster walls and I always use a direct application of plaster or one of the pre-mixed alternatives if I'm in a hurry (often a smear of Easyfil a la nickjb). Never needed any scrim tape on cracks but where I have used it in other applications it has shown through without significant extra work to hide or a full plaster skim.
Go with what your builder says.