PIR Floodlight / Pro Electricians Call

All in one, or separate?

Separate is easy, you are just over-riding the PIR switch wire with your light switch switched live.

All in one, then if you can access the wiring, then just join your light switch switched live to the PIR switched live.

For the above options you'll need to wire it with a 3-core and earth (if the earth is required and it's not doube insulated). Permanant live/neutral plus switched live. Make sure both lives are off the same circuit - i.e. don't run your permanent feed from a spur and your switched live from the lighting circuit.

A lot of them nowadays though, just wire it so that for PIR operation the light switch will be in the on position - turning it off and back on will over-ride it and make it stay on when you want it. For this option, you just need a 2-core (and earth)

get the right light itll be grand.

the ones i have on the back of my garage are PIR activated but if i switch them off at the switch and switch them back on within 3 seconds - they stay on perminant till i switch the switch off - wait 5 seconds and switch on again - they revert to PIR 

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Screwfix LAP weyburn - they aint the best in the world sure but im sure others have the same feature 

i had a similar one to trail rat but a spike would turn the light on, which was a pain in the arse. 

Ive had 3 LAP lights, all failed within a year. I replaced with a brand recommened by my local electrical suppliers and they have been ok 

Pulse over-ride is what you're after. Last time I looked several years ago, the LED versions were pretty pricey 

You can get a separate PIR that you can use to actuate a number of lights. I have some IP67 rated 30W LED COB floodlights across the back of the house - been there 5 years, close to sea and survived numerous storms. About a tenner each on Amazon. The expensive ‘branded’ ones from a well-known electrical distributor filled up with water and tripped the RCD.