ok, so, lately, the OH's motor has been playing up a bit
VW golf, 98, 1.8T, manual
symptoms:
reverse gear crunches, and first gear is difficult to select - by 'difficult' I mean it is physically hard to get into gear, once in it is fine, also there is no crunching in forward gears (even when car is stationary)
2nd-5th also difficult to select, but not to the same extent
it does not always behave this way, when cold, it all works quite well.
I was initially thinking the clutch isn't disengaging.
But I've bled it and that made no difference.
As it appears temperature related, I'm going to check oil level in the box, although no reason to suspect its low (no noticable leaks). The box oil has been changed within the last year or so.
Also going to check the gear cable adjustments are ok, although as it works when cold I don't think this is the problem.
Any ideas, STWers?
gearbox linkage on my 97 golf benefited from a squirt of gt85 every now and then. its was quite accessible on the mk3. 98 is a mk4 I guess?
didnt help the jumping out of reverse under load though.
yup, mk4.
i don't think there is a syncro on reverse, so it probably is the clutch not disengaging.
how did you bleed it? doing it the same way as you do brakes probably won't work very well - in fact you can pull the master cylinder seal off the piston. (ie don't push the clutch pedal down with the bleeder open, then shut the bleeder and then let the clutch pedal come up again)
if you open the bleeder with the res cap open the fluid should just drain out bringing any air with it, but if there is some kind of nvh device in the line then this won't necessarily happen. the only way to really get the air out is to use a vacuum pump like the garage would have and draw it out of the bleeder. and option is to go to your local drug growing accessory emporium (hydroponics centre) and buy a couple of large syringes and find some tubing which fits over the end. fill one with brake fluid and force fluid in from the bleeder end, and remove excess fluid from the res. as you do it. a bit fiddly but it works.
fyi I am a clutch actuation engineer for a major oem..
a way to prove if the clutch is dragging and or the hydraulics are leaking is to park on a completely flat piece of ground, engage first, handbrake off and start the engine with your foot completely down on the clutch pedal. it only takes a few Nm to make the car creep forwards. if it does then something is amiss, probably the master cylinder. the engagement point shouldn't be a couple of percent of travel off the floor, more like 30 odd%
thanks jamie
I'll try the '1st gear clutch in start car' check in a minute.
how did you bleed it? doing it the same way as you do brakes probably won't work very well - in fact you can pull the master cylinder seal off the piston. (ie don't push the clutch pedal down with the bleeder open, then shut the bleeder and then let the clutch pedal come up again)
pretty much like you have it there;
start pressing clutch, open bleeder, clutch reaches end of travel, close bleeder, allow clutch back up; repeated a few times (didn't notice any bubbles come out)
when you say 'force in from the bleeder end' - I take it you mean the slave cylinder bleed nipple, down on the gearbox?
Check the clutch is disengaging by depressing the clutch, engage forward gear, back into neutral then engage reverse - if you hear a grinding noise or it is hard to engage reverse then at a guess i'd say your clutch is not disengaging -could be a number of things from worn pressure plate, clutch release bearing (is there a whining noise when you engage the clutch?).
Could also be the wrong weight and spec of gearbox oil was used at the previous oil change, i recommend millars gearbox and engine oil, could also be faulty seals in the slave cylinder, or problems with the gear selection linkage.
Without sitting in the car and playing about i'm just trying to list all the possible faults - take it to a good/recommended local vw garage, for recommendations ask on [url= http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/ ]UK-mkiv forum[/url]
i don't think there is a syncro on reverse
Never come across it, the only one I have heard of was a special box for the metropolitan traffic division and fitted to there mondeo st24's, and was made for them by Quaiffe, as they were having so many pursuits ended by being reversed into and the airbags deployed, by have syncro on reverse they were able to get out of the way.
right
box in 1st, clutch down, turn starter - car creeps forward
the engagement point feels about normal, around 1/3 or 1/2 way up pedal travel
Check the clutch is disengaging by depressing the clutch, engage forward gear, back into neutral then engage reverse - if you hear a grinding noise or it is hard to engage reverse
thanks soma - I get grinding when engaging reverse
no noises when pressing clutch pedal