I keep smacking my XT cranks on roots and rocks, so am considering going to 165mm, are there any potions other than Shimano?
Hope and E13 only appears to be available in 30mm spindles.
Dmr axe would be my choice. Look lovely, super strength, just seem to work. I'm eyeing up the silver which look amazing
DMR Axe also need a special BB.
In the realm of light/cheap/tough, imo it's hard to beat whichever Shimano fit your budget tbh.
The Hope 30mm BBs are pretty good, so I wouldn't let that standard put you off.
Cracks do nothing for me so I'd find it hard to look elsewhere, especially when I hear the horror stories of RF carbon failures and Hope fiddlyness. I had some E13 one which were a total PITA, but, E13, so that was predictable. Plus, coloured cranks are gopping..
RF turbines. Yes 30mm but what's the problem there?
If you are happy to stick with Shimano then I have some new XTR 165mm that I bought after a PSA on here. You can have them for what I paid.
What't the problem with Shimano? Are you actually bending or breaking them? they're lighter, stronger and cheaper than almost anything else and they have the best/easiest/most reliable axle/crank interface IME. I've had various Hope, RF, SRAM, Middleburn over the years but other that looking different all were worse than Shimano in various ways.
Personally wouldn't even bother with XT. The SLX looks better, wears in better, and has the same construction and weight (IIRC the weight difference to XT comes from the XT composite chainring) and is cheaper.
It does seem to appear that other than a few cheap GPX or the entry level RaceFace, everything is now 30mm or dub. Nothing wrong with good BSA30 bottom brackets like the Hope and nothing wrong with Shimano cranks.
I am about to move a set of RaceFace Turbine from a boost mountain bike to a gravel bike. That's only possible because the chainline is in the chainring, not the cranks. You can't do the same with Shimano.
@onzadog you can also play with the axle length. You may find a Easton cinch axle gives a better chain line or the slightly shorter RF axle from before boost. There is a massive tech doc on the RF site that gives the measurements for the different combinations.
If your turbine's are boost era they should have a a rf136 axle. For your gravel usage a rf134 or the 128 (iirc) from the road sets would be better.
@onzadog hmm. You *can* fiddle with chain lines on Shimano bit it was never elegant.
@ beargrease
I appear to have reached my limit of PMs.
Can you me your phone number and I'll phone you
Ooooh the shiny black one 🙂
was really meaning like 9100, 9130 etc. Should be written on the end of the drive side (left crank will just say 9100 I think).
@thered 165 XTs on my proper bike if you want a spin. I put 30t chainring on as it does make a difference in power/ torque whatever over 175.
SLX come in 165 and I believe the crank arms may be slightly lighter than XT.
I can vouch for them being durable and reliable.
Slight lack of third-party options for Shimano DM rings, but I'm happy to suffer than for the "it just works" design.
The Shimano rings are way more durable than aftermarket options anyway.
The Shimano rings are way more durable than aftermarket options anyway.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe they make a 28t ring?
Nice one matey, I'll keep an eye out for discounts and give it a try next time.
The ones pictured above are FC-M9120.
U02sgb