CaptJon, I have a Soloist 853 which is
a) beautiful to look at
b) rides very nicely
c) pretty light.
I also have a 1992 Marin Eldridge made of Tange Prestige which is only one and a half of the above.
I love my aluminium kona jake that still lives after years of abuse.
But I mainly ride
Steel marin
Indy Fab steel
Merckx steel
Ti456
Steel fixxee for work
Spesh cross bike – ally – looks nice but not getting used
Not sure I would ever consider a steel FS – maybe because of the shock a billy I saw once.
Steel bikes just look nice and ride a bit softer, which is good as all my steel bikes are rigid.
Because people don't post photos on here of cracked welds. They just take the frame to somewhere like Argos in Brizzle. The bike lives on.
Ti for life didn't seem to last.
Because with brazing or welding, you can get frames made to measure.
Just look at the sexy curves of those stays:
I had one of those, fantastic frame, wish they'd bring it uptodate with a 29er.
Reynolds 520 is dire stuff, proper bottom of the range tubing.
520 is 525 made under licence in Taiwan, and can be the same as 4130 which is a type of Cr-Mo. But one 520 bike can be different to another because there will be more than one 525 tubeset (roadie, mountainbike, oversized, 29er versions etc). And even then it's not uncommon on MTB's at least to spec different chainstays as the Reynolds range is quite limited.
You can even get 520 tubing suitable to build into car chassis!
Steel tends to get a more emotive reaction that I guess comes from the durability, it's more likely to make a bike that's seen as a keeper that you get attached to.
Might be some truth in this, I'm a serial frame swapper, but I realised the other day that my 'new' steel frame is now 3 years old. If it was a new-ish FS bike it'd have the wrong axle standard, too few gears, not be dropper compatible and other things, but Steel frames tend to be more timeless by virtue of being simpler so they never get outdated.
You can even get 520 tubing suitable to build into car chassis!
Yes but it's material tech from the 1930's. I'm sorry I just don't rate 520 at all, it tends to build heavy, lifeless frames. Oh and you pay more for it because it's got Reynolds sticker rather than it just being listed as plain 4130 (which it is).
I've had a few steel frames and to be honest, didn't 'get' the comfy/compliant/feel etc thing vs other frames. They rode nice (Cotic Soul and mk1 Inbred SS especially) but never felt special. A couple of years down the line I build a Dialled Love/Hate and fell on the side of Hate - felt like it was made of girders (admittedly not helped by the On-One forks on it at the time). Replaced that with one of the cheapo Curtis S1s which CRC were knocking out and everything clicked into place. You just need to look at the frame to see why - the seat and chainstays are about as wide as my little finger and the top and down tubes aren't much bigger. Coupled with some nice forks (Salsa Cromotos) the ride is everything I imagined a steel frame should be after reading all the guff in the mags.
[quote="thisisnotaspoon"]Might be some truth in this, I'm a serial frame swapper, but I realised the other day that my 'new' steel frame is now 3 years old. If it was a new-ish FS bike it'd have the wrong axle standard, too few gears, not be dropper compatible and other things, but Steel frames tend to be more timeless by virtue of being simpler so they never get outdated.
Yeah, mine's 4 years old (but I've only owned it about a year) and I can't see me wanting to swap it any time soon, mainly because I'm tight/poor, but also because it's such a lovely frame and there's nothing else out there except maybe a Chromag Stylus (older one without the hoopty swoopty top tube) that ticks my box. There's a certain 'thing' about having a chromoly frame for those of a certain age who had BMXs- 100% 4130 (or whatever) was a cool sticker to have on your frame BITD 😀
By properly I mean traditional 1-1/8 steerer head tube, narrow 27.2mm seat tube, stays as thin as pencils etc etc....when done like that there is an inherent flex/spring from the frame that is a joy to ride.Unfortunately the prevalence of massive head tubes to take tapered forks, large diameter seat tubes to take dropper posts and chunky stays mean that modern steel frames are often as harsh as their fat tubed aluminium cousins.
So who still makes a traditional MTB frame like this? From a quick look, Genesis and Cotic mentioned in this thread seem to have switched to fat head tubes for their currently available models. On One still do the Inbred. What else is there?
Blame the designer not the material. Blame the CEN / ISO tests also, to be fair. I still think there's examples of 4130 making bikes of all kinds that ride well.Yes but it's material tech from the 1930's. I'm sorry I just don't rate 520 at all, it tends to build heavy, lifeless frames.
A lot of steel tech hasn't moved on that much it's true - that's why it's so well proven and reliable, it's a good thing.
No need to, it's pence per frame for the decal if you're using those tube specs.Oh and you pay more for it because it's got Reynolds sticker rather than it just being listed as plain 4130 (which it is).
That was the reason for the changes to the Soul wasn't it? I've got a Mk1, which is definitely a 'you can prise it from my cold, dead hands' job.Blame the CEN / ISO tests also, to be fair
I'm firmly in the camp of ride feel being dictated by the design, not the material.
You can make a frame stiff and harsh out of any material
You can make a frame noodly and compliant out of any material
You can make a frame with a mix of the above too
Some materials may lend themselves to one aspect a bit better than others for certain parts of the the frame, some may be cheaper or easier to achieve your desired result from, and some may have a weight penalty, but ultimately it's not the material that dictates the ride feel, it plays a part in the overall picture, but it's not the defining factor.
FWIW, I have Alu, Carbon, Steel (posh and boggo), and have had Ti as well, I like them all for different reasons.
Steel for me is about longevity, resilience, reliability and repairability more than anything else.
I've got a MK soul, so not the holy grail MK1, but it's straight steerer, 27.2mm post.
Had a genesis core (alu) before, and may mate has it now. They're similar bikes really, but I do find the soul more comfortable, fun, ever so slightly more flexy, I just love riding it, it feels ace, I don't notice the miles clocking up, nor have I ever thought it's heavy. I don't think I'll ever sell that frame. The hard bit will be getting forks when I need some.
Just building a genesis io (520, not the 853 version sadly) into a rigid SS hack. I just love the simplicity, clean lines and general aesthetic of a nice thin tubed steel frame.
I also have a scandal 29er (all alu - there's a theme here of me not having the 'best' version of frames, isn't there) it's fast, stiff, light, and ace at what I use it for, but I'd pick the soul over it for comfort and fun any day.
Hmm, the weight thing, the frame on my Solaris is quoted as being 2.22Kg while a carbon 29er frame (On-One) is quoted as 1550g so just under 700g difference. No doubt you could find lighter carbon frames.
My bike as built is 12.7Kg so with the same components I'd get a 5.5% weight saving by having a carbon frame. Would it be as nice to ride? Who knows, not me - I don't care as I love the Solaris.
Yup, steel frames rust out overnight...
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So this bike's disintegration is overdue by 80 years or so.
I wondered how long it would take to post up a Sanderson. 😉
TINAS. Sanderson have updated to a 29er. The Town Crier:
Steel frames are not all made equally. With the right tubes and the right geometry they can be special life time bikes. Get them wrong and they can be bloody awful. I've had some absolute dogs, I won't name names, but also some some gems. The Kona Paddy Wagon was good, the Genesis Day One was really good.
My Sanderson Soloist is a keeper. It needs a fresh coat of paint, but I'll have a new dropout welded in with a mech hanger so I can run gears if I want to. How many carbon or aluminium frames can I do that with?
Those Sandersons look good, where are they based? Their website seems borked in that respect.
[s]Steel [/s]frames are not all made equally
As others have said, there can be a world of difference between bikes. My other steel bike is an On-One Pompetamine and it might be politely described as "sturdy". There's no life in the frame but a lively frame wasn't what I was after when I bought it: I wanted a bike that was solid, reliable and non-twitchy for commuting.
Two bikes, both steel but I know which one puts a smile on my face 🙂
Or, why do people like Aluminium bikes?
i'm contemplating replacing my cdf frame with an Arkrose frame - mostly for the increased mud clearance.
the (approx) 500g weight-saving sounds nice, but the downside is a frame that is so soft it can be killed with a few hours cable-rub. Or (as i've seen at work) a frame that's severely buggered after being rattled against the bike-stands by the wind.
i had a steel Dh bike for a while. Shuttle-rash held no fear for me.
I've got my dad's old Dawes impulse. it's at least 25 years old, it's still a lovely thing.
People like steel bikes cos it's like way cheeper than buying one.
could always get a new CDF, they now have loads of clearance 🙂i'm contemplating replacing my cdf frame with an Arkrose frame - mostly for the increased mud clearance.
This is 853, the so called wonder steel. According to folk lore, it should ride like a leaf spring, however. Its rock solid.
A bike's character is a function of its design, which includes geometry and decisions on tube material and thickness.
It's only been broken down into something more simplistic for the proles.
Wonder what Sandersons ride like now post-CEN? They were ace before.
True- any frame in any material doesn't ride the same as others of the same material. I remember a ti airborne feeling like it was alive/brilliant yet still stiff. Then another make that felt flexy by comparison.
I can't remember off hand where Sanderson are based. They are available from [url= http://www.independent100.com/catalog/24 ]Independent 100[/url].
iainc - Membercould always get a new CDF, they now have loads of clearance
the frame's £500, and i don't like the colour...
i'm not opposed to aluminium frames, i own a few, i just try and accept that each frame has different characteristics beyond ride quality.
the main criticism of steel frames is the weight penalty, which is usually around 600g - whoop de doo.
Wonder what Sandersons ride like now post-CEN? They were ace before.
You loved yours so much you kept it for a whole fortnight, if I remember rightly. 😆
I'm a big fan of steel frames. Mind you ... the last alloy hardtails I had were a Chameleon, and then a Pace RC305, both of which left you feeling like a bad night in the showers at Wormwood scrubs. Anything feels compliant, bouncy and positively Tigger-esque after those!
And as many have pointed out, skinny tubed steel frames just look 'right'
I have a steel framed mountain bike, I like it very much and that's enough for me.
When you took that pic binners, crouched/adjusting...you must have felt self-concious? I always do when I take a pic of my bike in public.. like I'm being a frickin geek.
hora - Member...
If the Rocket can accommodate 650b I'd say its easy worth £700. This answers the OP's question IMO (as well as including some arguing within his veiled for sale topic). you know the unwritten rule- you post a 'whats it worth' thread and its open-seasonMy frame will depreciate? True- but its being used and I know I can use both wheel sizes in it.
wrong thread you berk! 🙂
Got an iOID made out of Reynolds 520 (shock horror!) and I love it. Its handling turns a dull ride into something fun and exciting. Great to jump and bombproof. A tad weighty but the Alfine is a heavy unit.
It's done five years of hard work and other than a little surface rust on a few stone chips feels as good as the day I bought it.
Might even do a few laps on it at MM24 this year.
My steel 29er, despite being rigid and having lightweight kit apart from the wheels, weighs 26lbs. This is pretty lardy considering I have a FS 26er that weighs 21lbs!
molgrips, bet those wheels (with tyres etc) weigh something like 4lbs more than the equivalent on the 26er.
TINAS.
My Soloist is the same geometry as the Life, but I have 120mm Revs on it. Measured a few times and it comes out at 67°. It's not slack in any shape or form, still feels very XC. They are recommended for a 100mm fork, but what does a bike designer known. 😉
molgrips, bet those wheels (with tyres etc) weigh something like 4lbs more than the equivalent on the 26er.
The wheels are about 1800g ish, at least the more modern versions are claimed to be that. They are Bonty Rythmn Elite and appear to be an older version since they are a different colour to th eones on the website. The tyre sare pretty light race xxx lite things. The 26er otoh has ZTR Olympics on XTR with Sapim Laser spokes so something like 1350g, and the tyres are Racing Ralph evo 2.0. So probably more like 2lbs difference.
Molgrips.
Is the 29er tubeless? If so, you haven't accounted for the 2kg of extra Stans Spaff™ in there. 😉
soloist is an inch shorter in the TT IIRC? That was the reason I bought a life and a tensioner anyway.My Soloist is the same geometry as the Life
I suppose if those figures are given at 120mm then at 100mm it'll be quite a bit longer and steeper (assuming it'll take another 10mm layback on the post, and the HA drops to 70).
The life/breath were apparently based on the 'designers' old Kona frame with some tweeks, which is allegedly where Cy got his inspiration for the soul from too. Either way it always looked like the bike you'd design in your head, forged headtube, hourglass stays, ritchey dropouts, slightly dropped top tube, forward facing seatpost slot, no rack mounts. My only gripe were the cable guides, I prefer roadie style guides under the BB or zip tied guides, although I can see why there the way they are, perfect for shouldering the bike.
The new house has a big garage, I've told myself my first treat as soon as all the DIY is done in a couple of years is a bazing setup and frame jig, then I can tweek old frames to my hearts content!
Why do people like steel bikes?
Cos they is real.
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I like this one because it's got some hand-built woo-woo in it, I've had it for ages and I love the way it rides - all the cliched stuff about resilient, sprightly handling - this has it in spadefuls. Love it even more now it's debounced and degeared.
I like this one because I've done more miles on it than anything else, because I know I'll have it forever unless something bad happens, nad because it's so versatile.
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I like this one because it's got bouncy bits and geary bits and it's fun to thrash. light enough for 100 milers, strong enough to take more abuse than I'm likely to give it. Doesn't really need to be steel, but I wanted one, they were cheap, and some of it's magic woo-woo 853. Christmas lights are not a permanent feature.
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And I like this one because I asked for a cheap station/pub bike, someone (off here) gave it to me - he'd found it in a skip. Put some of my parts bin stuff on it and I've grown quite attached to it! No clue how rusty it is - plenty of algae on it when I picked it up - I reckon it's spent some time in a canal.
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^ that appears to be an old Bontrager RaceLite or OR, you got that for free? Jammy barsteward!
good eyes! OR 1990/1991.
Lovely chap (tobymc on here) rescued it from a skip, kept it, wanted it to go to a good home. I asked on here for a cheap hack, he gave it to me, I had to get rid of most of the bits (27 speed brakeless fixie when I picked it up!) back wheel and frame are only remaining parts. Might do a proper resto job on it at some point. til then, it's being used!
Ageing 456 that's done me proud for carrying/towing Nobby Jr to bouncing down a Welsh mountain.
The basic mud/snow/why not one.
One of the nicest riding bikes I've used.
The one bike I regret not buying when I had the chance.
Not saying they're better than my carbon or alu bikes but they each have a place in riding life and all do what they're intended to do well.
Molgrips.Is the 29er tubeless? If so, you haven't accounted for the 2kg of extra Stans Spaff™ in there
Both tubeless. about 100ml in each wheel 🙂
til then, it's being used!
As it should be!
My Bonty is getting some love at the moment ready for 24/12 again 🙂
well, if I'm honest, I snapped a crank the other day, so it's not being used!
99 LX finally died on it's 3rd bike. Not sure how to shuffle chainsets around the bikes. PA will keep it's XT double, nothing else is quite right where it is.









