Put a new headset on a frame that did not have its head tube faced. Had it faced about 100 miles later. The shop said the headtube was way out. Popped the headset back on. When I tighten the top cap I can screw it right down until it's very tight but still my wheel flops about. Steering feels odd. Plenty of gap between topcap and steer.
Did I wreck the headset by having it on a unfaced frame?
Sounds like you've missed a part when putting it back together. Some sort of compression ring?
are all the parts fitted?
have you got the right size headset for your steerer e.g. is it 1 1/8 or 1 1/5?
is it just your wheel moving around or is it the forks as well? if it is just your wheel it could be your hub causing the play.
Add another spacer.
Agree with Onion, missing compression ring. Which Headset is it?
Richey WRC via all terrain. It didn't come wih a compression ring. Installation both time was by the same lbs. Can I make a compression ring from a coke can or something? where does it sit?
Hmmm, that's odd. How does it tighten up, if not by compression ring?
You shouldn't need to tighten the top cap 'right down'. Correct adjustment would normally be found with just an extra turn or two on the allen key once you feel resistance...it shouldn't be tight so there is definitely something wrong!
I had a loose headset with a FSA headset. I had got the compression ring mixed up with the crown race which were almost identical. Swapped around and job done.
How close is the top of the steerer tube to the top of the spacer stack / stem top? If it's too close then be top cap can't pull down into the SFN before coming into contact with the steerer tube. After the head tube was faced the steerer will be relatively longer by the amount removed in the facing operation. You might need to take a couple of mills off it.
Have you tried popping an extra spacer under the top cap to see if it tightens up then?. If the head tube was way out and then faced it may be shorter than before and there is no gap left to preload the headset
Yep got lots of room between the top of the steer/spacer stack so definately not the issue. There is a compression 'wedge' but no spacer/washer type thing.
It does get tighter as I turn the topcap nut but just not tight enough before it bottoms out. It turns smooth - just floopy. I assume if i had crushed the bb's it would feel rough as hell?
Sounds as if you have either stripped the threads on the top cap bolt or the shank of the bolt is hitting the SFN, that or the SFN is loose in the steerer.
It does get tighter as I turn the topcap nut but just not tight enough before it bottoms out.
Ah, I think that's the problem.
The adjuster bolt is bottomed out on the SFN before it is fully adjusted.
Tap the SFN down the steerer tube another 5-10mm
Ah, I think that's the problem.
The adjuster bolt is bottomed out on the SFN before it is fully adjusted.
Tap the SFN down the steerer tube another 5-10mm
Not sure how that is possible. The sfn is threaded right through and the cap has got good clearance from the sfn.
Had a similar problem, LBS popped some thin shims on the compression ring so the top cover would not touch the cups, did the job, try popping a thin headset spacer under the top cover so that it sits on the compression ring. If it allows to tighten the headset properly but there is a big gap between cups and top headset cover than use a thinner shim. Basically the top cover might be touching the cups and not putting enough pressure on the compression ring.
Oh, OK, I misunderstood what you meant by bottomed out. I thought you meant the bolt wasn't threaded all the way and the end of the thread had reached the SFN before it was fully tight.
If it's not that, mieszko's idea sounds most likely to me.
Thanks all - will try tonight
Ok tried a 'stem shim under the topcap'. The topcap bolt is now full guerrilla strength tight yet the wheel still flops over when held vertical. And still feels smooth.
Must be something wrong with the headset/headtube unless I have the strongest bearings in the world.
I had a Cane Creek from CRC that came with two upper bearing cups i.e the writing was upside down on the lower cups when fitted. Obviously it all went together, but never worked properly. Just thought I'd mention that.
Are you actually getting movement in the headset? when you put the front brake on, and rock it back and forth, is there movement?
No movement. No noise. Slightly strange riding sensation. Goes away the tighter I go but it is very tight now and it still feels a we bit strange.
When I bought my Trance in the States, the guy who built it up assembled the headset with one of the bearings upside down. It sounds like a similar problem.
What forks have you got?
You don't what you're doing?
Tries your best and risking your health by riding dodgy bike.
Please take the bike to LBS for advice!
